The Oily Shop Project

[1930]

That jack deserved better than that

[OilyRascal]

Oily, Your 9532 DA wrench is front idler adjuster wrench for IHC TD-6 crawler.

Thank you, Mr. Jim!

.......deserved better than that

Words that have come out of my mouth a MANY of time during this project.

[john k]

That big jack looks a lot like the Railroad jack my dad hauled home decades ago.  Heavy as heck, but will lift whatever you put it under.  Ever think about an addition to the shop just to hang the tools in?

[johnsironsanctuary]

Oily, or anyone, is there a keyboard command to move left and right on a long photo post like the one above without going down to the arrow below the last photo?

[rusty]

>a keyboard command to move left and right

If you are using IE, click on a picture to select the group, then the left and right arrow keys will move it (slowly) right and left...

[OilyRascal]

As it turns out the 1965 Ford F350 is a 1966 Ford F350.  The data tag that was found in the glove box (formally riveted to the driver's door) confirms via the warranty number a June 1966 man. date for a 1966 model with a 352 engine.  The engine data tag (mounted under the coil) states a 352 engine with a man. date of June 1966 for a 1966 model truck.  I feel comfortable saying the engine was originally in the truck.  I had misread the side emblems to read "Ford" OVER "360", when it fact they read "Ford" OVER "350".   The data tag confirms the current color was also original, as is the transmission.  I have yet to translate the "DSO" number on the door tag.  I understand it to be indicative of dealer customized options - or "special order".  Short of the DSO number providing "special order" information - The only issue of parts with having the truck 100% back to original condition is the Dana 70 4.88 rear with  6 bolt on a 7.25" pattern axle for the rears.

Quick note about "options" via special order - I just love the FOMOCO "push button" pump mounted on the floor that allows the driver to pump air into the washer reservoir (a douche bag looking thing mounted on the wheel well) forcing cleaner onto the window.

I re-wired HOT wires, replaced the starter, solenoid, plugs, plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, points, condenser, fuel pump, and rigged a temp. fuel line from a fuel container............changed the fluids throughout........gave it a breath of starter fluid, and BAM - she busted right off never hesitating.  Little makes me happier than to bring something left for dead back to life.  I had forgotten how much I love the sound of a big block engine.

I've found two issues related to the engine - 1) a every so small leak in a tube within the radiator, and 2) the occasional spit/sputter that I  suspect is directly related to a partially plugged low-speed jet on the carb. - I have a rebuild kit for the carb on order.

I have now stepped away from the engine to focus on removing the body work so that it may go for repairs and paint.  Overall, the body is very solid with just a couple of areas that will require patching.  It would be very easy to put this truck on the road and drive it as-is, but I really want it to be fully repaired, looking as original, and dependable.  Once the body is in a shop I plan to turn my focus on the frame and brake system.

[Lump]

Hey, Oily. I have a thought for you....

Vintage vehicles have been my life, both professionally and as a hobby for most of my entire life. So I feel qualified to give you a suggestion.

That 66 Ford has neat OLD paint on it. And today, there is an extremely strong and popular trend to preserve old paint with "patina", and to paint commercial names on top of that old paint, and then sand those names/characters down to make them look as old as the old paint. This look of a well-preserved but NOT restored or repainted old truck is SCREAMINGLY popular these days. You might want to give that some thought before repainting it. OLD scratches and imperfections are "patina" today, and you can easily repaint it later if you change your mind. But you can NEVER go back to the old paint---ever.

It seems to me that, this old truck would look awesome with the old original name of your family's business on the doors in "old" faded lettering, while the 352 FT engine hums along like a new motor, and all the mechanicals are restored to a reliable state.

Just a thought....

[OilyRascal]

Hey, Oily. I have a thought for you....

I'm humbled by your stepping in to lend an opinion and your thoughts.  I didn't have any luck finding an example of the paint restoration style you've noted.  I'm still looking.

In those cases, how is it that you deal with, or blend in, areas that must be patched/welded/bondo and are readily visible?  I have two areas 1) on the hood, and 2) cab beam at passenger's door - where body work has been done before (and not a great job I might add).  I had planned to mold the metal back to form and beat/sand out the old bondo in those areas.  Most any other body work required would likely be hidden (floor pans, cab corners, etc.).  How would you treat the frame and other steel work (e.g. wheel wells) when applying this technique?

I do have two magnetic company door signs that I found during the cleanup I'd like to sport or replicate.

I'm interested in this paint style that you note but frankly I had planned all along for this truck to be my daily driver - not bound to the shop or preserved along with it.  I would like for it to be something I could pass along (in good order) to my son.   My gut reaction is look/think to apply this technique you speak of in a shop truck project.

[Papaw]

Oily- google "patina Paint scheme" and "faux patina" look at the images and the discussions.

[Lewill2]

You might also try rat rod, or variations of rat-rod.

[Lump]

Here is a link to one example, although it is not especially good, in my taste. I probably have some pix at work, but will have to wait till tomorrow to look for them.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=140698

[OilyRascal]

Thanks to some "keyword" help I've been able to find a number of examples, and a number of threads with information on methods.  I rather like the style.

[johnsironsanctuary]

Oily,
Here is an example of what these guys are trying to fake.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0806sr_painting_faux_patina/photo_01.html

  You have got the real deal. If you have to weld up some rust damage, use a long lasting brown-red epoxy primer like Ditzler DTL and just leave it in primer or paint over the primer with OE color and sand through the color to make it look old. It is really cool to restore the chassis and engine, but patina the cab. Have a seat cover made from a colorful indian or Mexican blanket.  Have the  sign on the door hand painted and then age it with 400 grit water sandpaper. You can also coat the cab with low gloss clear so that the rust stops.

[OilyRascal]

It was a deal I could not pass up; a 1965 F-350 with 43k being sold by the original owner (a glass/mirror company).  I'm having second thoughts fast about this being a parts truck - but it has the rear and a front bumper I need.

[1930]

Dosent look like a parts truck to me, how much did you give?