Hand Planes

[Jim C.]

About a month ago, I read a post in the woodworking forum written by a gentleman who received an old Stanley #120 block plane from his father.  For some reason that post has stuck with me.  In the post, the writer wondered if the plane was any good, based on some negative things he had read on other forums/websites.  Clearly, some planes are better than others.  But in making that statement, a plane’s INTENDED function and original design must be considered, and "apples must be compared to apples."  Stanley, like many other tool manufacturers of their day, made different planes for different consumers who had various budgets, uses, and skill sets.  Practically every plane that’s complete and in good working order can provide some level of utility.  Expecting a plane to do more than it was originally designed to do is what leads to disappointment and frustration…..and possible negative reviews on other forums.

Stanley #120:

This is a good medium to light duty block plane.  It will handle a variety of tasks and is capable of doing an honest day’s work.  It’s not a block plane that was designed for cabinetmaking or fine woodworking.  This is the type of plane that I’ll put in my tool tote when I’m on my way to my parents house to do a few odd jobs for them.  It’s great for knocking the edges off tomato plant stakes, thus reducing slivers in one’s hands when pounding the stakes into the ground during planting season, or pulling them out in the Fall.   Have a dresser drawer that sticks a little in the summer months?  With just a couple light passes over the high spots, the drawer will fit perfectly in its opening.  The possible uses go on and on.  I really love planes like this.  They’re inexpensive, they’re easy to find at garage sales and flea markets, and when used in the right situations, they deliver great results every time.

Stanley manufactured the #120 between 1876 and 1947.  Based on some clues that the box provides (label, paper, construction), and the logo on the plane’s cutting iron, I believe the plane depicted below was manufactured some where between 1925 and 1932.  It’s not in mint condition, however, as one can see, its original box did protect it from paint drips and unnecessary damage.  The plane's bare sides show a beautiful dark patina.  At some point, it was certainly used and in the hands of someone who respected it, and understood its utility.

Jim C.       

[Branson]

>Expecting a plane to do more than it was originally designed to do is what leads to disappointment and frustration…..and possible negative reviews on other forums.

This ought to be done up on a sampler and posted on the wall!  Apples with apples, and oranges with oranges.  While there are junk planes,  the vast majority of planes (and other tools, too) are meant to do a job, and even most of the true "junkers" will do decent work within their limitations.  A lot of times "Will it work?"  is best answered, "Depends on the carpenter."

[Jim C.]

>Expecting a plane to do more than it was originally designed to do is what leads to disappointment and frustration…..and possible negative reviews on other forums.

This ought to be done up on a sampler and posted on the wall!  Apples with apples, and oranges with oranges.  While there are junk planes,  the vast majority of planes (and other tools, too) are meant to do a job, and even most of the true "junkers" will do decent work within their limitations.  A lot of times "Will it work?"  is best answered, "Depends on the carpenter."

Thanks Branson!  I know that your response is based on a great deal of personal experience which is truly appreciated here. 

Jim C.   

[Billman49]

It's been ages since I did any proper joinery, and used anything bigger than a No 4 - for most of the work I do a block plane suffices, and mine are used almost daily - ideal for taking the sharp corner off a sawn board to avoid splinters.

I use several, mainly Stanley,  (both US and UK made ones) with the occasional UK Record thrown in for good measure. A year or two ago I bought a couple of Stanley steel bodied 118's from the US (they appear never to have been made or sold here)... They are superb for site work, and good to carry on a roof or up into the scaffolding, as they are virtually unbrakeable if dropped...

My favourite is an old 60 1/2 I got with a couple of books of Green Shield stamps circa 1970 - I've used it for everything from musical instrument making through to joinery - it's one I don't take up on the roof though....

Another favourite is the knuckle jointed cap found as on the 18 and 65 - replacements are difficult to find in the UK, but I see on eBay.com in the US they sell for about $6 to $8 - a pity the postage to the UK is over twice as much as the cap iron..

[Jim C.]

Hi Billman49,

Thanks for checking in from across the pond!  You may be the first international guest to submit a post to the thread.  Now I could be wrong about that, but no others come to mind at the moment.  If there are others, please accept my apologies.  Anyway.... I'm very happy to hear that you're a frequent hand plane user.  Block planes are by far one of the handiest and most useful tools ever created.  You mentioned using a #118 on a roof or scaffolding.  Are you employed as a roofer?  A steel block plane like the #118 is ideal on a construction site.  I probably wouldn't use that one for fine work.  The others you mentioned (#60 1/2, #18, and #65) are a little more versatile, each having adjustable throats, and two (#18 and #65) are outfitted with the "comfortable to use" knuckle cap.  A favorite feature of mine.  Of the group, I believe that the #65 is one of the finest block planes that Stanley ever made.  It excels at a variety of tasks, but because of its size, weight and features, it's perfectly suited for fine woodworking.  All the planes you mentioned are wonderful tools in their own way.  Thanks for stopping by and I hope you'll post a few pictures of your block planes.  They don't all have to be Stanleys, we'd like to see the British made planes too!!

Jim C.   

[Jim C.]

Well, back at the storage unit I found my Sears #45, in its leatherette case with both sets of arms and full box of blades.  Unlike the Wards 45, the 45 is nowhere to be found on the casting.  Strangely enough, it was in a box marked "planes."  There was another 5 C in the box and a 5 1/4 (no knob on this one and the retaining bolt is snapped off level with the casting).

A while back there was some discussion on the 4 1/2, and I had read Leach's write up on that, wistfully thinking I'd like to try one out.  Even tossed a couple of futile bids on ones that showed up on eBay.   Well, at the bottom of the plane box I found a Stanley 4 1/2 C.  Yay!  (Good thing those bids were futile).  So I got home and tried to get a fix on the date.  No ring cast into the bed for the knob.  Check.  No "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjust.  Check.  Later threading on the depth adjuster.  Check.  No "Bailey cast into the toe.  Check.  Blade is stamped with the triangular Stanley, New Britain, Conn, USA"  mark.  But the number isn't cast into the toe either.  The tote (cracked, of course) and knob are beech.  Hunh?  The depth adjustment knob is 1 1/4 inch in diameter.  No patent dates.  "M 4 1/2 " is cast into the bed behind the frog,   I'm confused now.

So Jim, what have I got?  (other than a good 4 1/2 C that will work just fine with cleaning and de-rustification -- the blade even looks to be sharp)

Yeah, I know, photos.  Not yet. storage hasn't been kind to these planes and they aren't ready for a public appearance.

Hi Branson,

I did a little research on your Stanley #4 ½C bench plane.  In your prior post, you were wondering when your plane was manufactured.  Well, I’m not sure that I have a definitive answer for you, but I think we can make a few educated guesses based on the information you provided above.  I’ll try to present the information in pieces, and then add it all together to see what we get.  So let’s get started with a general time frame.  Stanley manufactured the #4 ½C between 1898 and 1961.

Main body casting:

You stated that your plane did not have a ring cast into its bed.  That raised ring was added to provide support around the base of the front knob, and to prevent chipping/cracking to the knob itself.  That ring first appeared on Type 14 bench planes, manufactured between 1929 and 1930.  That narrows things down a little bit.  You also stated that the name “Bailey” (in honor of the man who perfected the bench plane’s general design) was missing from the casting near the toe of the bed, and no patent dates were present.  The Bailey name started appearing with Type 9 bench planes, manufactured between 1902 and 1907 as did patent dates immediately behind the frog.  Okay, so maybe you have a really early (pre-1902) version of the #4 ½C.  Here’s where things get a little cloudy.  You stated that the plane’s size (4 ½) was not cast into the bed.   Starting with Type 5 versions manufactured between 1885 and 1888, Stanley started including sizes on the main castings.  Smaller bench plane sizes were cast near the toe, while #5 and larger planes had their sizes cast near the heel.  If I haven’t totally confused you yet, in theory, your #4 ½C should have a size number cast near its toe.  From what I can tell, Stanley started making the #4 ½C more than a decade AFTER they started adding sizes to the main castings, so I’d generally expect to see 4 ½ cast near the toe.   Finally, you mentioned that “M 4 ½” was cast into the bed immediately behind the frog.  I’m not at all familiar with that marking.  Patent dates eventually made their way to that spot on the bed, but not until 1902.  They remained there in some form until about 1931, when they were replaced with “MADE IN U.S.A.”  On Type 1 (1867 – 1869) Stanley bench planes, the size was cast into the underside of the frog and lever cap, but not the main plane body.

So, there are clues to suggest that your plane’s main casting may be a very early Stanley #4 ½C.  But then there are other factors that don’t match up to commonly known, conventional Stanley facts and figures.  There are exceptions to every rule and perhaps you have something that’s extremely rare.  Are you sure the corrugations on the sole are original Stanley factory applications?

Lateral adjusting lever on the frog:

You stated that “Stanley” was not stamped into the lateral adjustment lever of the frog.  Stanley added a lateral adjustment lever starting with its Type 5 (1885 – 1888) bench planes.  The stamping included two patent dates (2-8-76 and 10-21-84) and “STANLEY.”  The Stanley #4 ½ (not #4 ½C) was introduced in 1884, or about 14 years prior to the #4 ½C.  A frog from an extremely early #4 ½ could have existed without “STANLEY” being stamped on the lateral adjustment lever, and could be on your plane.

Cutting iron:

The triangle shaped logo on the dull end of the iron is more commonly known as the “V” trademark.  It was routinely seen on plane irons and tools that were manufactured between 1912 and 1918.  That logo was characteristically found on Stanley Type 11 bench planes (1910 – 1918).  Although the iron is old, if we believe that your plane’s main casting and frog date to approximately pre-1902, then it’s probably a replacement iron.

Depth adjustment screw:

Your plane’s depth adjustment screw measures 1 ¼” in diameter.  That became the standard on Stanley bench planes starting in approximately 1919, with Type 12 versions.  Prior to that time, their diameters were smaller, measuring at closer to an inch or so.  Your screw may be a later replacement.

Keyhole shape on the lever cap:

The keyhole shape on Stanley bench plane lever caps changed over to a kidney shape on most Type 16 examples beginning in 1933.  The keyhole shape on your lever cap is consistent with earlier planes.  Does the lever cap have “STANLEY” cast into it?  If so, that could change things.  In 1925, the word “STANLEY” in a notched rectangle made its debut on the lever cap, if your lever cap says Stanley on it, then it may be a later replacement part.

Knob and tote:

Stanley did manufacture some of its planes to include the #40 and #40 ½ scrub planes, #64 butcher’s block plane and #340 furring plane, with beech knobs and totes.  As for Stanley bench planes (#1 - #8) with beech knobs and totes….. well I guess anything is possible, but I’ve never seen one.  The “wood” on your plane may have been replaced at some point.

There you have it….  I’m not sure if we cleared anything up or not.  I’m also not entirely convinced that all the parts on the plane are original to that specific example, but still, if your plane is entirely comprised of Stanley parts from top to bottom, then I’d say that it’s pre – 1919, with the latest part (depth adjustment screw) dating to about that time.  A few pictures might help......

I really like digging into the history of old planes.  A tool’s past can’t always be known, however, its future is yours to create.   I hope you enjoy using your #4 ½C. 

Jim C. 

[Billman49]

Hi again

Stanley (UK) and Record are the two main manufacturers in the UK - the Stanley UK range mirrored those made by Stanley USA - I believe the company started as an offshoot of the US firm, but later became independent of them... The Record planes are now made in China, and a shadow of their former quality.

Other Sheffield firms also made good qality hand planes, Wm Marples and Rapier being twi that come to mind - in the 1950's Marples came out with the X4, and cross between a No 4 and a Norris/Spiers/Matheison typw infill plane, about 50% heavier than the No4, and with and emclosed handle...

A firm called GTL (Good Tools Ltd???) of Sheffield also made a plane like a number 4, but with a Norris type adjustment they also made a brass bodied variant..

Jim C - I'm a retited teacher of craft, design and techenology (CDT) with a passion for DIY and old tools (mainly billhooks) - I probably have over 30 woodworking planes of various types scattered about various tool boxes and sheds...

[Jim C.]

Hey Billman49,

Thanks for stopping by again.  Living in the UK, you must have had access to some of the best hand tools and planes ever made.  Norris, Spiers, Matheison are well known for their infill planes.  Nothing compares to them in terms of performance, and as a result, they're highly desired by collectors and/or users alike.  You mentioned having several planes.  Do you have an infill you could show us?  If you've been reading along, you know that pictures of your planes will always be welcome, particularly those that were manufactured in England.  As a retired "CDT" teacher and DIYer, it makes perfect sense that you'd have an interest in old tools.  You'll fit in just fine around here.  I hope you'll not only share your collection of hand planes with us, but also your experiences using them and collecting them.

You also mentioned having an interest in billhooks.  I'll admit that I really didn't know what a billhook was, so I did a little research.  The Internet is a wonderful educational tool.  Anyway....  As soon as I saw a picture of a billhook, I immediately recognized the tool.  My grandfather immigrated from "the old country" to the United States in the early 1900s.  He had a nice little vegetable garden behind his house, and more than 100 rose bushes that he meticulously maintained.  He had a real green thumb.  One of his other passions was making his own red wine....from grapes that he grew along the back fence in his yard.  He pruned those grape vines with a machete like tool that I believe he made at work.  He was a tool and die maker.  Now I realize what he made....a billhook.  It had a single bevel, curved end, and measured about twelve inches long.  It was a tool that I'm sure he fashioned from his memories of the "old country."

Jim C.     
         

[Billman49]

Sadly no Norris, Spiers or Matheison planes in my collection - I'm in the process of building a new tool shed - the structure is up,  but the inside is work in progress - the idea is to empty the tools in my sheds, garage and workshop (plus my mum's attic) into one place.... It's slow going as currently my wife has health problems, involving bi-weekly hospital visits and me doing all shopping, cooking etc - I do draw the line at housework... Prognosis is good for about 6 months time, so maybe 2015 I'll get back on track.... As a result my tools are all over the place, so unable to get the planes out and photograph them...

Glad you found out what a billhook is - did you visit my website, www.billhooks.co.uk ????? It was (is??) a tool found throughout Europe, and was in most US immigrants tool kit, but for some reason in the 19th and early 20th centuries it almost disappeared from the US. Revolutionary War era fascine knives, another name for the same tool, appear very collectable, and some billhooks were still being made in the US (The American Axe Co listed them) - they may have just evolved into the US bush hook or brushing hook, or maybe the axe became 'king'....

Not technically a 'carpenter' tool' - although they were found in Dutch carpenters shops, and also specialist versions were used by European (but not British/UK) coopers - single and double edged, and with single or double bevels, they are a 'woodworking tool' - especially for green woodworking and coppice work.... Probably not the place to discuss them in 'woodworking planes', I'll start another thread... I tend to post mainly on the What's It forum, but maybe I need to branch out a bit...

Most of my plane are UK made Stanleys, plus a few Record - I do have a few European wooden planes as well, plus a few I picked up in Hong Kong 20+ years ago... The Stanley No 4 must be the most copied plane in the world, and made in most countries after the initial patents expired... In the UK there are also cheap imported copies from India and China - OK for rough work, e.g as a scrub plane, bu no good for fine woodworking, although the quality is improving.... It's cheaper to buy one of these just for the handles than it is to buy replacment wooden handles for a Stanley....

[Jim C.]

Very recently, a site member from England (Billman49) posted here in the Hand Plane thread mentioning that he has several internationally made hand planes, as well as an extensive collection of billhooks.  (I checked out his billhook website and found it to be VERY impressive and extremely educational in terms of learning about a tool that I knew very little about.  I encourage all of you to take a look.)   Anyway, in an earlier post Billman49 listed several fairly well known manufacturers of English made hand planes.  I’ve heard of them all, but have none in my collection.  With so many USA made models to collect and use, I never really focused my attention on tools from outside the United States.

About a dozen or so years ago, I made an island/table and four stools for my kitchen.  The stools feature concave seats.  (See the last photo below.)  Back when I made those stools, I rough cut the general shape of the seats on my band saw.  I stayed pretty close to the layout lines, but in the end, I knew the seats were going to need some serious fine tuning to make them all uniform, and to make sure that the concave surface of the seats were smooth and free from the marks left behind by the band saw.  Sandpaper, a card scraper and a curved sole spoke shave weren't going to get the concave arcs in the seats all the same.  I needed a tool that could be set for the desired curve and could also produce it over and over.   I needed a compass plane (also known as a circular plane) to fair the curves.  Stanley made two versions, the #113 (1877 – 1942) and the #20 (1897 – 1958).  Well, I needed the plane to finish the stools, and I didn’t really have a lead on a vintage Stanley version.  As I recall, I turned to one of my woodworking supply magazines and came across an English made Record #020.

Record #020:

The Record #020 is very similar in every way to the Stanley #20, and was produced by Record between 1932 and 2004.  It's ten inches long and weights approximately four pounds.  The iron is 1 3/4" wide.  Its basic dimensions are similar to a common #4 smoother.  I purchased the plane depicted below in December, 2001.  Interestingly, a sticker on the side of the plane’s original box reads “2-10-01.”  Perhaps that’s the day it was assembled and packaged.  I do know that it’s a later version and that the #020 was out of production within a few years.  This is an extremely specialized plane that really excels at smoothing consistent/constant concave and convex curves.  On concave work, the best technique is to start with the plane’s flexible sole set at an arc that’s slightly tighter than the desired arc.  After several passes, the sole can be flattened little by little, via the large threaded knob, eventually “sneaking up” on the finished curve.  On convex work, it’s the opposite.  The arc of the plane’s sole should be more flat initially, and adjusted to the finished curve after several passes.

A compass plane’s frog and cutting iron assembly looks and functions much like that of a standard bench plane, with its double iron, depth adjustment screw mechanism, its lateral adjustment lever and screw operated pressure cap.  The only real difference is that the frog’s base is riveted to the flexible sole and cannot be removed from the main body casting.

I probably wouldn’t recommend that a compass plane be among the first planes one might purchase.  As I mentioned, it’s very specialized.  Still, if you’re planning on doing any curved work where the arcs are consistent, then a compass plane becomes invaluable.  If you’re planning to buy one to use, check the sole and frog to make sure they’re not coming apart at the rivets.  The plane itself is sturdy, but not indestructible.  Set the iron for a light pass and don’t over torque its settings.  If possible, remove as much waste as you can with a band saw.  I think the plane functions best as a finishing tool.

Jim C.               

[Billman49]

Currently 8 Record 020 planes for sale on the UK site of a well known auction site - they seem to go for about £120 sterling as Buy It Now, but who knows what you may get as a bid.... They also often appear online from secondhand tool dealers... A copy of the Stanley 113 is also made in Germany by Kunz - they appear to be a bit more expensive that a second hand Stanley (about the same price as a Record 020)....

Searching online, I have just found that Record also made a version of the 113... The Indian company Anant also make a version....

[Jim C.]

Billman49,

Thanks for the additional circular plane information.  I'll have to admit, I had no idea that so many different overseas manufacturers were still producing a version of the Stanley #113.  As a matter of fact, I didn't know anyone anywhere was still making that model. 

Jim C.

[Papaw]

Coulda had this Keen Kutter for $715.50 back in 2000!
 

Simmons Hardware Co., E.C. No. KK115: "Keen Kutter" Circ. Metallic Plane. Sim. To Stanley 113. Rare & Excellent. Length: 10.00 Inches. Given its ambitious, and successful, undertaking to produce nearly every imaginable tool and hardware item emblazoned with its "Keen Kutter" logo, it is likely that they also produced a similarly-marked line of canned goods that ran the gamut from soup to nuts. Keen Kutter collectors share the zeal of the Simmons Company for acquiring KK items. Simmons contracted with the principal manufacturers of the country to produce specially cast and marked items for the Keen Kutter line. Some of the KK products, such as bench planes, while other items, such as special-purpose planes, of which this is an example, are rare indeed. Most likely fitted out for Simmons by Stanley, this Keen Kutter circular plane is cast with the KK logo on the front adjustment knob and the cutting iron is also properly marked. A rare Keen Kutter item in top collector quality condition. (GOOD+). This item was sold on October 14, 2000 for $715.50.   

[Jim C.]

Hi Papaw,

I vaguely remember that plane.  It's definitely a Stanley product that was rebranded with the Simmons Keen Kutter logo.  That's a hefty price tag to pay for a Stanley #113 with a KK logo, but collectors are collectors.  With the volatile economy these past years, I wonder if the plane could still attain that same price at auction.  Who knows?  If two Keen Kutter collectors show up at the auction and both have their sights set on it, anything could happen.  There's excitement in the air, no one wants to back down, neither one has seen that plane before, etc., etc.  The next thing you know, someone has paid a lot (maybe too much) for an item.

It's interesting to note that the plane was listed as being in "top collector quality condition (GOOD+)."  I've learned that a tool graded at (GOOD+) usually means that it's a really nice "user" quality item.  $715 seems like a lot of money to pay for a user tool.  As you know, condition is everything!  Over the years I have occasionally overpaid for a tool that excited me enough to look (foolishly) beyond it's ACTUAL versus advertised condition.  Inexperience, a lack of discipline, the thrill of the hunt, the exciting auction environment, etc., and in the end, there I was with a top quality "user" plane that I paid a top quality "collector" price for.  From a pure collector's point of view, tools that are graded excellent to mint tend to hold their values over the long haul much better than those graded at good, regardless of how rare they may be.  I don't know.... $715 seems like a lot money for that particular plane.  Education can sometimes be an expensive proposition.

Jim C.                   

[Jim C.]

One of the most common and basic woodworking operations is to round over the edge of a board.  Whether it be done on a finely crafted cabinet, or out on the job site, smoothing sharp edges is simply a part of handling and working wood.  A smooth edge on a finished piece of wood really does have a great feel to it, and it invites one to run his/her hand across it.  You might think twice if the edge were left square.  The most common ways to accomplish that task would include using a block plane, a small sized bench plane (like a #3), or even with some sandpaper.  An electric router with a round over bit will also do the trick.  I usually go with a block plane and may follow up with one or two passes of 400 grit sandpaper.  Well, if you’ve been reading along so far, you’ve heard me say many times that Stanley was always looking to fill a niche (real or imagined).  Do you think Stanley was content to round over edges with block planes and sandpaper, when it could make a plane that was dedicated to that specific task?

Stanley #144:

This was Stanley’s answer to rounding over the sharp edges of a board.  It’s a fairly basic tool consisting of three simple parts; the main body, the iron and a pressure screw.  That’s it.   The plane came in three different sizes that included ¼”, 3/8” and ½”.  When referring to the plane sizes, I mean that the soles of the planes were manufactured with the various radiuses as were the business ends of their cutting irons.  Stanley made the #144 series between 1925 and 1943.  There were some minor variations that have do with being able to identify earlier versions of the plane from newer versions.  None of these variations even remotely impacts the plane’s use or functionality.  They’re all cosmetic.  I’ll go over some of the variations now.

Earlier versions of the #144 were cast with “PAT APL’D FOR” while later examples were cast with “U.S. PAT 10-6-25”.  The irons also were stamped with their respective sizes which typically read, “1/4 CIR” for example.  Some irons, depending upon when they were produced, may have also included a Stanley logo at the top.  Look carefully at the photos below and one will see the “Sweet Hart” logo.   Some irons will only have the size of the plane and no Stanley logo at all.  I have rarely seen some irons without any sort of size and/or logo stamps.  It’s hard to say if they were original irons or something a previous owner made from metal stock that he/she had on hand.  Finally looking at the plane’s skate, one will see that the size was also stamped along the bottom.  I’ve never seen a #144 from any period of production that didn’t have its size stamped on the skate.  From what I understand, the most common size is the 3/8” while the least common is the ¼” followed by the ½”.  Ironically, I do not have the 3/8” size, so it’s hard to say for sure, but that’s what I’ve been told.

I know that was a lot of “collector” information.  From a “user” standpoint, I’d give the #144 an average at best grade.  It does get the job done, but I don’t believe it’s superior to the results that can be achieved with a standard block plane and a little fine grit sandpaper.  These planes are somewhat scarce and that drives their prices up.  If one were planning to buy a #144 to use, I’m not so sure that the results they produced would justify their costs.  They can sell for a couple hundred dollars apiece. The #144 series of planes might be better left to the collectors.  I don’t see these too often, but if you come across one and the price is right why not give it a try?  Worst case scenario, you could always go back to using a block plane and some sandpaper to round over an edge.

Jim C.