I can’t think of too many tools, accessories, or attachments that Stanley made to enhance the versatility and/or utility of its hand planes. With the exception of the hollow and round soles that were not included with the basic Stanley #45 combination plane but could be purchased separately, and the various additional cutter sets that could be added to the #45 and #55 combination planes, most Stanley planes came with everything one needed to use the tool to the extent that it was designed. The only other plane that comes to mind would be the Stanley #51 chute board plane. It could be combined with the Stanley chute board, to create the model #52 chute board and plane. There may have also been a few weather strip planes (for window sash) that came with a single width cutter but were also capable of using other widths that had to be purchased separately. Anyway, we’ll talk about some of those down the road. Having mentioned those exceptions (and there could be a few more that I missed), Stanley and most other manufacturer’s were pretty good about including cutters, fences, stops, etc. with their basic plane offerings. Most of the time, the user had what he/she needed just by purchasing the plane and its respective parts. There was however, one other accessory that made jointing longer stock a little easier and potentially more accurate, but it was sold separately.
Stanley #386 Jointer Gauge:
At first glance, this tool may look like a “contraption” of sorts. If you’re not familiar with it, it’s a jointer gauge. The #386 was designed to clamp to the side walls of longer bench planes (between sizes 5 and 8) for purposes of aiding in the accuracy of jointing long stock. It’s actually a well thought out tool. As you can see, the clamping mechanisms were fairly simple and could be adjusted up and down by means of a knurled screw at each end. Those screws sit on top of the plane’s arched side wall and allowed the #386 to be attached to almost any point and still follow the side wall’s contour. The screws were then adjusted to keep the #386 an equal distance from the plane’s sole at the front and back. Studying the photos below, it’s easy to see how the #386’s fence could be adjusted to produce different angles along the edge of a work piece. I believe the fence had a working range between 30 degrees and 90 degrees. With the use of a reliable machinists square, setting the #386’s fence at a right angle to the sole of the plane is pretty easy. Still, it’s not foolproof. If your cutting iron is slightly askew in the plane itself, then the results of your first few passes will probably not be a 90 degree corner between the face and edge of the work piece. You might need to make some little adjustments using the plane’s lateral adjustment lever. If you’re trying to make an angle that is something other than 90 degrees, then keep checking your results with an accurate measuring tool after every few passes. The best way to really see what I’m talking about is to use the #386 on a plane. Hands on experience is really going to be the best teacher in this case. I’d also recommend picking a specific plane and dedicating it to jointing work. Square the plane’s iron to the bottom of the plane’s sole with the lateral adjusting lever, set it for a light pass, and then attach the #386 gauge to the plane’s side wall. Use a square to adjust the fence and make a few passes on some scrap stock. If you’re happy with the results, then you’re ready to start jointing stock. It will take a little tinkering to get everything set up just right, but once you have it, leave the #386 mounted on the plane and use that as your “go to” jointer.
I use the set up depicted below to make one last pass over stock that I’ve run across my mechanical/powered jointer. A super sharp hand plane equipped with the #386 eliminates the microscopic scalloping on the surface of the machined edge and leaves it perfectly smooth. If you were wondering, I use a Stanley #7C with my #386 jointer gauge. For some reason, that particular plane, when outfitted with the #386, seems to give me great results every time. I’ve tried others, but I like THAT plane, so I’ve dedicated it as my go to jointer. It seems to be the right size, weight and length for me. The iron is ground and set perfectly for jointing. Others may like using a longer plane like the #8, or something a little shorter like a #6. Whatever works best for each individual is the “right” plane.
The #386 was manufactured between 1911 and 1947. They were usually nickel plated, but like many from the WWII era, they can occasionally be found with a black japanned finish. The rosewood knob can be installed on either end of the #386 so that the tool itself can be mounted on either side of the plane. The #386’s fence also has factory installed holes in it for mounting a longer auxiliary wooden fence for added accuracy and for using against the face of a finished surface. I see these at tool shows and at auctions all the time. They’re relatively common in various states of condition. If you decide to buy a #386, make absolutely sure that the clamping mechanisms are complete and free from damage. If it can’t easily be attached to the plane, it’s worthless. The #386 is a “try it and see” tool in my book. It’s not essential for accurately jointing the edges of boards. Good technique, the properly adjusted plane, and practice eliminate the need for the #386. On the other hand, it’s fun to use, and once it’s set and installed on a plane, it speeds up the jointing process and delivers very good, easily repeatable results.
Jim C.
