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Hand Planes
Jim C.:
In my last featured plane post, I included a few pictures of the Stanley #9 1/4 block plane. That got me to thinking of just how MANY different types, patterns, and sizes of block planes that Stanley actually made during their most diverse and productive years. There were literally dozens of them. Some were nickel plated, some were japanned, some came in a combination of both finishes along with some brass trimmings. Some had adjustable throats, while others were manufactured with fixed throats. Some had mechanical iron adjustments, and others had to be adjusted by hand. All, at least in the eyes of Stanley, were produced to fill some perceived niche in the market place. Many of the block planes Stanley, and others, produced were extremely useful and successful. Those are the ones that lasted and stood the test of time. Others seemed like good ideas on paper, but in actuality, had design flaws, or weaknesses, or characteristics that made them non-user friendly.
Stanley #130:
This is a double ended block plane, whose body is cast with two ramps that will accommodate the cutter on either end of the plane. It's one of those planes that I see as an "oddball." One end functions like a regular block plane, while the other end has a bull nose, allowing the iron to cut very close to the end of the plane. Useful? I don't know. I've got a "user" version of this plane and I've never had a reason to use the bull nose end, instead opting for other more capable tools to make those sorts of cuts. Like any cast iron plane, the #130 is very prone to damage if dropped on the floor. The bull nose section on these particular planes are often cracked off. The casting is extremely fragile around the bull nose, simply because there's not much metal there to begin with, so, a good knock and the bull nose snaps off. Because so many are found broken, they are often altered on the bull nose end, and turned into chisel planes (more on chisel planes later). I think the angle is a little high for a chisel plane, but I've seen more than one that has been "fixed" to become a chisel plane, so I know they're out there. Just beware that they were not originally manufactured like that. Personally, I think the #130 is a little bit too large, and therefore limited in its uses. At eight inches in length, it's almost as long as a #4 bench plane (see post #1 above). There are several more block planes that I like to use well ahead of the #130. Although it functions just fine, it's not my favorite to use. From a collector's point of view, well, I really like odd ball planes and this one fits the bill. In used condition, the #130 is relatively inexpensive and they do occasionally turn up at garage sales and flea markets. (If you absolutely still must have one, contact me....)
Stanley produced the #130 between 1884 and 1955. The example depicted below was probably manufactured in the late 1920s or early to mid 1930s. Notice the remains of the Stanley logo on the pressure cap. They were decals that didn't survive regular use, simply by virtue of their location on the plane, right under the user's palm. The decals were affixed to several different models during that time period, and were usually found on the handles, totes, and pressure caps, depending on the plane. This particular plane appears to have never been used, and still retains its original factory grind on the cutting iron.
Jim C.:
It's no secret, I've said it before, I really like old hand planes. As a user and collector, I frequently receive planes from people (family, extended family, friends, co-workers, neighbors) who want to help me along with my collection. Many of the planes I receive are well used and often abused, with broken, missing, and/or poorly repaired parts. I can't count how many times I've received old wooden bodied planes that are cracked and well beyond repair. Still, I accept them all with a smile and a genuine appreciation, because someone took the time to think of me. Many of them end up in my "parts box" which occasionally yields that one little screw, washer, chip breaker, etc., that can be re-used on another plane. Over the years, I have received a few nice user quality planes to include some block planes, a Stanley Bedrock #608, and a pretty good Stanley scrub plane #40.
Along the way, I ended up with a couple "Razor Blade Planes." One of them actually belonged to my grandfather. He was a "tinkerer of the highest order." He actually made and smoked corncob pipes, enjoyed making model houses and scenery to display in a winter setting under his annual Christmas tree, and was famous for re-cycling old pallets and turning them into bird houses. His collection of tools was meager to say the least, but he made do with what he had. After he died, I ended up with several of his tools, to include his razor blade plane (The Little Giant). The other plane (Wil-Kro) was given to me by my dad, who recalled buying it in the late 1950s when he was working on building a model ship. According to him, it was almost useless, and that was that. It ended up in the bottom drawer of his workbench never to see the light of day again...... until he gave it to me a few years ago. I really don't collect these things, or use them, but their origins are special, so I keep them. I'm sure these planes are found in "grandpa's basement shop" all across America.
Razor Blade Planes:
These were most likely produced in the 1950s and into the 1960s, for the home hobbyist. They actually used a safety razor blade as the cutter. I don't think they'd cut much more than balsa wood, or some really soft pine. I've heard that they may have provided some utility working with leather, but I'm not entirely sure about that. The Little Giant, manufactured by Wilson Bros., in Springfield, Missouri, came in a flat soled version (see below) and a curved version (which I do not have), patent number 2781804. The Wil-Kro version, manufactured by Craft Master Tool Company, in Cleveland, Ohio, was a four in one model that could allegedly function as a flat sole, bull nose, chisel and curved sole plane, depending on the configuration of its four parts. If you're really interested in seeing more about this plane, its patent number is 2289504. Razor blade planes must have had some level of popularity at some point, because there were several models and manufacturers, to include Select, Raza-Plane, Zip Plane, and Sollingen Balsa Planer to name a few. I believe that Lee Valley even made a version of the razor blade plane. These planes may have sold well because they promised a multi-functional tool with a forever sharp blade, that would be useful for the home handyman. In the end, I don't think they actually lived up to their hype. I don't believe that razor blade planes are in much demand on the collector market either. I see them frequently at garage sales, flea markets and online, usually for less than a couple dollars. As for small planes, that actually work, there are MANY superior choices to be had. We'll save some of those for another day.
Branson:
Thank you for the information and the pictures. I've seen some of these on eBay from time to time and thought about getting one to play with. I find planes more than a little addictive... Like you, I have a number that have been given me, and am glad to receive every one. I picked up two because my wife found them in a junk store we were cruising through -- I appreciated her looking out for tools for me. (Her latest find was at a yard sale -- a working Makita battery in its charger that cost me $2) Someone else found a Stanley low knob 5C at a garage sale and got it for me. Good user.
And I have a box of plane parts somewhere in storage.
Looking forward to more posts from you like this.
scottg:
Razor blade planes. How cool. Got to love them. The definition of the word Cockamamie heeheh
Here is what happens to the 130 bullnose planes when the front section snaps off.
These ends are ridiculously fragile anyway. Not to mention, whose idea was it to have a tool that will --almost-- work into a corner?
So here's mine. The blade is about twice as thick as Stanley's offering, for stability. The lever cap is solid steel to mop up vibration too.
Also here is what you need for the really tight places.
yours Scott
Jim C.:
--- Quote from: Branson on October 21, 2013, 08:24:38 AM ---Thank you for the information and the pictures........Looking forward to more posts from you like this.
--- End quote ---
You're most welcome. I'll try not to bore you.
Jim C.
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