The trouble with a Sharp Tooth is the shape of the teeth, and their special hardening.
This Old House talks about these high-tech saws:
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=saw+teeth&view=detail&id=0D41AC2D7D263EA0AD7CD2C8BAEEB7D328157947&first=90&FORM=IDFRIR"low-friction blade coatings, and heat-hardened teeth to chew through wood faster and longer. But once they're dull, the saw is toast."
The photos show the difference in the toothing. The crosscut teeth are easily, if tediously sharpened and set. Use a saw file with its three 60 degree sides and go for it.
The hybrid saw teeth are a different matter. They are easily broken in setting because of the induction hardening done -- more brittle.
The angles of the teeth are so steep that a saw file won't fit (and one wonders if the teeth are too hard for a standard saw file. In addition to the front and back sides of the teeth, there's the problem of the top of the teeth -- the "third side," which would also need to be sharpened.
You might want to contact Stanley to see what they recommend, or if the saw is made to be used until dull, and then replaced rather than sharpened.
On the third hand, as one site says, sharpening saws is a tedious business. I can, and do, sharpen my own saws, if necessary. It's a very good skill to have! But honestly, mostly I do what the old carpenters in the 40s and 50s did -- I take them to a saw sharpener.
One fellow who inherited his sharpening shop remembered to me that weekends were the hardest work when he was young. All the contractors brought all their saws to the shop every Friday to be sharpened, and to be picked up early Monday morning.
