Help Me Identify This Block Plane

[lauver]

Gang,

This plane measures 7"L x 2"W and has a 1-5/8"W cutter blade.  The bottom and sides are bare steel, the top is painted in maroon enamel (looks to be original), and the thing that holds the cutter blade in place appears to be nickel plated.

Here's a few photo's showing the design features and markings:












Note-- the cutter blade is marked Stanley, but there is no way of knowing if this is original or a replacement.

Any help appreciated.

[Bill Houghton]

The paint color and the knob shape look Stanley to me.  I'd speculate that it's a later Stanley 110 (can't recall the exact years of the maroon Stanleys, maybe 1960s and 70s).  These are seen as not-so-great tools, but they sure sold enough of them; I suspect they're decent utility planes, the kind of thing you would use to ease edges on a garden table.

On block planes, often the only place you would find the maker name was the iron.  I have a maroon Stanley 60-1/2, and the iron is the only place with a name on it.  The similar blue (older, but not by many years) 60-1/2 next to it has the Stanley name on the adjusting knob.

[Billman49]

For more info on Stanley planes go to

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm - not much info on later 110's - many early Stanley planes did not have the name on the nose of the casting. The 110 was made from 1876 to 1973, so once the original patent expired, they would have been widely copied - Millers Falls, Sergeants amonst many others made  their own versions...

[mikeswrenches]

The maroon color was apparently used from 1964 until about 1975.  The dark blue color from 1962 thru 1964.

This per Alvin Sellens book THE STANLEY PLANE.

Mike

[lauver]

Bill H. & Billman,

Thanks for your thoughts regarding my plane.  I agree that my plane looks Stanley-ish, and the Stanley name and model number on the cutter blade(?) also suggests a Stanley connection.  I have to wonder about the "C-255" stamped on the base of the plane... this suggests a non-stanley model number to me (perhaps a clone of the 110), but who really knows.

[rusty]

There is a 220 on ebay that shows an "X 1" marking in the same place, and a letter followed by a bunch of digits over it where your C-225 is, and with the later "you only get a yellow paper label"   , Stanley id on it....my guess is C225 is only a casting number, not much noted...

..goofy thumbwheel ;P...

[lauver]

Mike & Rusty,

Thanks for the additional information... It's looking more and more like a Stanley # 110, ca. 1964-1973 (the maroon years).

But, for the record, I was looking at a Miller Falls catalog a while ago and found a model 8707 block plane that looks to be a dead ringer to my specimen; could not tell if it was maroon though because it was a B&W photo.

[wvtools]

I have seen similar casting numbers on Stanley block planes.  Is there another similar casting number on the underside of the cap?

[lauver]

I have seen similar casting numbers on Stanley block planes.  Is there another similar casting number on the underside of the cap?

wvtools-- Yes there is;  it has an "11" and "B" stamped on the underside of the cap.

[lauver]

Gang,

It looks like the consensus for my block plane is:

1) it's likely a Stanley model #110, or some variation,

2) it was likely made between 1964 and 1973 (based on the maroon color),

3) would likely have had a decal with the Stanley name on it (now missing), and

4) is probably not one of the better block planes Stanley made.

Thanks for the help guys.  If you have any after thoughts... just post away.

[scottg]

Definitely a 110. It has every single sign of it, and the blade is marked 110 too.
 
  It may be a little more trouble than usual to flatten and polish the blade. Quality control issues. But once you do, the steel they used during this period will nearly always give good service.

 The body will be the hardest part. Take a fine flat file and lightly go over the ramp where the blade operates, and that will probably catch and show up any lumps, bumps or out of flat pretty quick. The blade has to lay flat to work!
   Then the all important bottom that slides over the wood in use? This is where Stanley of this period may or may not show itself to be less than stellar. 
 The casting of iron had slipped by this time, and it may be slightly warped with a lot of flatening needed. Or it my be coarsly cast "grainy" iron, and impossible to polish well.
  Some are, some aren't. Its kind of a crap shoot.

  In Stanley's earlier history, the basic casting, seasoning and machining of the iron itself was what made Stanley immortal. They were really really good, and really careful about their iron.  As good as any there ever was, and more so than most.

  In later periods this concern was largely ignored because most people forgot what good iron was all about. Good iron still got though, but it was as much by luck as by careful design and construction. So you just have to investigate for yourself.

  The lever cap is one of the few nickelled examples of a bright shining lever cap.
 So even if the body turns out to be a dud, that lever cap can be polished and transplanted onto an earlier, better body, to really dress up a standard #110.

   So at the least you can have a good blade and a pretty lever cap and all you will need is an older tired 110 body to make yourself up a fine working plane for the construction type jobs this pattern of plane was always meant to do. 
 An earlier #110, missing the blade and lever cap, can be had for about 2 dollars anywhere old tools accumulate. Its a useful plane that is largely ignored by the collecting community.
    yours Scott

[lauver]

scottg,

Thanks for all the helpfull tuning tips.  I'll give it a try and see where I'm at.  It's all good clean fun anyway... especially in my coolish 50 degree (very rare, usually 100-110 degrees) garage.

For the record, this is my one and only plane, bought "used" at a flea market in 1986, and used occasionally ever since.  My planing needs are pretty simple... rough trimming and surfacing, nothing requiring much precision.  All of my finished works look pretty crude and clutzy.  I'm a simple guy.

But, I do appreciate SHARP wood working tools.  So, I'll concentrate on getting the blade and ramp in top shape.  I will also attempt to flatten and lightly polish the bottom surface though, and will let you know what I find.  I have a piece of 1" thick sheet glass for this kind of work and lots of fine wet/dry paper.  It usually only takes about 5 minutes of work to identify surface imperfections.  One thing I've already noticed is that an occasional coat of wax on the bottom really smooths out the operation of this plane.  Kind of like what happens when you wax the top surface of a table saw.

Talk to ya soon... 

[Ann_from_Chicago]

Well I can not tell you how happy i am to find this post!!! and i know i late to the party as this post began in 2013.  I have a very similar planer (same exact numbers)  and have been trying to figure out what brand it was.  the good news is i know its from the 1960's early 70's because the one i have is my Dads. I am hoping to post photos.  But i just joined this forum today.   
I took the planer apart and the blade also says STANLEY. and i know for a fact he never changed the blade. The tool is maroon and i love it! . My dad is still alive and i am going to show him this forum.  i borrowed the tool 30 years ago and just forgot to return it. I'm sure he wont mind.  Oh, i wanted to replace the blade but wondering can i just sharpen it??

[Papaw]

Welcome to Tool Talk, Ann !

You can sharpen the blade.

Generally called a plane , rather than a planer.