Hand Planes

[mikeswrenches]

Jim & Lou, I’ll be home around the first of October. Will post some pictures then...if I don’t forget.  CRS disease takes its toll occasionally.

Mike

[lptools]

Hello, Mike. Thanks, and I'll forget to remind you!! Regards, Lou

[p_toad]

forget what?   

[coolford]

This is an interesting little wood plane.  Lettering on it is as follows.  "Use this tool for fitting Burrows Co.-Manufactures-Portland, Maine.  If screens do not run easily, groove out the shallow groove a little with this plane"  I have had it for years, but just recently found the proper iron for it.

[Yadda]

This is an interesting little wood plane.  Lettering on it is as follows.  "Use this tool for fitting Burrows Co.-Manufactures-Portland, Maine.  If screens do not run easily, groove out the shallow groove a little with this plane"  I have had it for years, but just recently found the proper iron for it.

That must have been similar to finding a needle in a haystack! You should buy a lottery ticket.

[Bill Houghton]

I take it that was for sliding screens on windows or doors?

[coolford]

I believe it was for screens on windows.

[Jim C.]

Hey coolford,

That is one “cool” little plane.  I’ve never seen anything like that.  I guess there’s no question about what the plane’s intended use may be.  Is the iron marked/stamped?  How did you know that iron belonged to that plane? 

Jim C. 

[coolford]

Jim-C---Iron is not marked, but the plane is concave on the bottom and this iron fits into the plane and has the same shape as the plane although about 1/64th larger so it would make a groove slightly larger.  Overall the iron is quite small.-----Coolford 

[p_toad]

Got a No. 4 with corrugated sole.   Needs some cleanup and sharpening.     Cleaning the sole is a bear even with a brass wheel.  Also a little (I want to say 211??) block plane, but don't have any pictures of either one yet.   

[Jim C.]

Hey Peter,

Thanks for checking in.  A few photos might help us identify your block plane.  Is the sole on your #4C rusty?  Maybe you can avoid the wire wheel, and use some evapo-rust.  That stuff does a pretty good job.  If you get a chance to post a few photos, that would be great!

Jim C.

[Bill Houghton]

Vinegar works well, too: disassemble the tool, soak it in white vinegar for 24 hours, brush off the now loose rust (I use the "painter's toothbrushes" from the hardware store), rinse off the vinegar with water, then hit it, hard, with WD-40 to absorb the water.  Let that sit for a while, then wipe it off.

[coolford]

I use a lot of white vinegar when cleaning auger bits.  I soak them for about 12 hours then put them on a fine steel wire wheel.  They clean right up and there are no marks from the wheel.  However, don't forget to spray them with WD-40 after you wire wheel them or they will rust up.  Note, I dip the bits in water after removing them from the vinegar to remove all traces of the acid.

[lptools]

Hello, Bill. Any problems with the japanning from the vinegar? Thanks, Lou

[Bill Houghton]

Hello, Bill. Any problems with the japanning from the vinegar? Thanks, Lou

Nope.  I've even seen comments from people who soaked a tool with wood parts (like the riveted-in-place tote on a Stanley 45, for instance) and who had no problems.  If the tool is rusted under the japanning, it will probably flake off; but it would have anyway, at some point.