A tiny draw knife - Miller Falls

[JoeCB]

Hi ya' . I picked up this pretty little "tight radius" draw knife. Looks unused, as the blade shows no sign of re- sharpening. Marked M.F. Co. - Miller Falls, Mass. - Pat. Feb. 19, 1884.

Joe B 

[lptools]

Hello, Joe. Nice find. Rosewood handles??? I believe the Millers Falls refers to that as No. 1 Circular Spoke Shave. Regards, Lou

[turnnut]

 agreed

[Bill Houghton]

Also known as the "cigar shave" for its shape.  Some people love them; some hate them, because the sharpening technique is not obvious and the blade's hard to hold.  Typically about $50 on That Auction Site.

[Northwoods]

It's a really sweet little tool.

[allenwisky123]

What are the tools used in the picture?

[Bill Houghton]

One comment: my experience with round sole spokeshaves - which this essentially is - is that they work better, when doing inside corners, if you pull them rather than push.  At least for me, the body mechanics works out better, with more control.

[Bill Houghton]

Incidentally, the earlier responses pointed out that this is a spokeshave.  Spokeshaves have a body that will limit the chip size and prevent, or at least discourage, tearout.  Drawknives are an open edge with handles on each side, nothing but your skill to limit the chip size:

(thank you, Wikipedia, for the picture)

With a drawknife and cooperative grain, I can remove an inch of wood from the width of a board in under a minute per foot; sometimes faster.  On very cooperative wood, I can shave that edge pretty smooth, but if I want real delicacy/precision, it's time for the spokeshave.

Basically, drawknives are to spokeshaves as chisels are to planes.  As with chisels and planes, drawknives and spokeshaves complement each other.  If you're doing much curved work, you want both.