52" long jointer plane

[Branson]

You'll just have to come over to Europe and have a search yourself - the tool fair at Bièvres, just south of Paris on the 1st of May is well worth a visit, and all those lovely museums as well - not forgetting the reconstruction of a medieval château at Guedelon (they will probably also recreate a coopers shop there at some time)....

and TATHS have just published their latest Journal, Vol 16 - with a print of the 2010 Mark Rees Memorail Lecture by Richard Filmer - titled 'Coopers and Cooperages'.....

Where can I fine the TATHS article?  I've got a *lot* better chance of looking at that than a trip to the Midi. 

[Branson]

Just checked out the chateau at Guedelon.  Amazing!  How to build a 14th Century French castle, using only the tools and materials of the 14th Century.
Experimental archeology?   I'm all for it.

A whole lot of images -- various stages, various trades used are at:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ch%C3%A2teau+at+Guedelon&go=Submit+Query&qs=bs&form=QBIR#a

[Billman49]

Not available on line - just in hard copy (only just published) - you can always join TATHS, or track down a US member and ask for a read of their copy when it arrives - failling that, I'll scan or photograph my copy when I have  few minutes spare, and send you by PM..

http://www.taths.org.uk/

I visited Guedelon in 2012 - I'd like to go back and work as a volunteer for a couple of weeks, before I get too old to do such things...

[Branson]

I've never had a long jointer to play with, so maybe this is just lack of experience, though I've never seen a discussion on it.  I pulled the blade yesterday,  thinking to clean and sharpen it.  It was in tight, so I hadn't tried to pull it before.  I looked at the bevel on the blade (needs honing more than sharpening) and was amazed at the angle of the grind -- looks like a little under 20 degrees.  So I looked at the angle of the bed, and, DANG!  It's bedded way below 45 degrees.  This is almost a block plane angle.

Wondering if this is unusual or if long jointers are often set at such a low angle.

[Branson]

Yesterday I fired up my jointer at Sutter's Fort.  I used the back stand from the existing jointer that has neither blade nor wedge, and placed the notch against two of the redwood beams (12  X 12 clear) and got a good height and angle.  I had brought a couple of stones to sharpen the blade, but looking at it sitting there all ready for use, set the blade and gave it a whirl.  To my astonishment, it cut clean and easy without touching it with a stone!  It's a delight to use. 

I checked the angles of the two other jointers in the shop, and both were set to common pitch, 45 degrees, so this guy is unusual  -- a low angle jointer.

Now to design and build a stand that will allow it to be set up as a free-standing tool.   Sheesh, how have I managed without one of these?!

[scottg]

I bet it was originally a homemade jointer.

  Setting the blade angle lower is what every newbie planemaker, (including me), naturally does instinctively. The first wooden planes I made were all set low. I can't tell you how many homemade first run planes I have seen at 40 degrees or less.
  Everyone does it.  Its one of those things you just do. Like making the tip of your tote curl back down (and into your hand, ouch).
  A persons brain remembers certain things exaggerated. Its human nature.

 The low angles do work great, but do not push knots though! They are fragile.
  The lower the angle the less wood behind the blade, where it really needs the support.

  That is why experienced planemakers made all wooden planes at 45 degrees or even higher (for more difficult woods).
    yours Scott

[Branson]

I'll keep an open mind on it, but everything I can see looks factory made.  The chamfers are perfect, and there are no hand tool marks anywhere.  The relieve groove for the head of the bolt for the cap iron is milled in, and looks like it was done with a machine no home made guy would have.  The blade and cap iron are D.R. Barton, 1870 to 1890s mark.  The one home modification is the notch in the end, clearly hand sawn.

No worries about knots here.  Coopering, good coopering, uses only clear, riven stock.  No knots need apply. 

Works absolutely dreamy.  Pulled the blade yesterday and honed it.  Works even better now!

[Branson]

My suspicions are confirmed.  Taking time to clean up the beast, I found stamped just in front of the opening for the blade and wedge the D.R. Barton cartouche.  It was made low angle at the factory.