Tool Talk
Woodworking Forum => Woodworking Forum => Topic started by: Art Rafael on June 01, 2013, 11:26:46 AM
-
I had meant to post a comparative scale pic. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DSCF1066_zps62014205.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/DSCF1066_zps62014205.jpg.html)
I'll get this posting procedure figured out yet. Ralph
-
Wow those are dynamite Ralph!! Did you make them?
yours Scott
-
Thanks Scottg. Yes, I made them for my collection. They are hardened steel with walnut handles, and they are good and sharp. Ralph
-
Thought you might appreciate this set. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/2miniplanes5013_zps70ebafde.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/2miniplanes5013_zps70ebafde.jpg.html)
-
This hand router is one of my favorite. pieces Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Router2008_zps1853444f.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Router2008_zps1853444f.jpg.html)
-
Fantastic isn't enough of a word for these. Beautifully finished tools in any size.
-
Thanks John. Here's a hand full. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SquaresampMarkingGauge2010_zps393e23d7.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/SquaresampMarkingGauge2010_zps393e23d7.jpg.html)
-
Wow what fun!! I can't tell you how delighted I am to see these!
How long have you been at this Art?
Do you belong to any clubs and/or go to the tool shows?
How come this is the first time I have seen this lovely stuff?
I know John Maki and Pauly Hamlers' stuff like the back of my hand.
Not too many serious miniature toolmakers around.
I only found out about Hillary's wrenches a couple years ago though. And now you show up!! :)
Minimakers unite!!!
yours Scott
-
Thanks again Scott. I'm glad that I found this forum -- was just surfing the web searching for ideas. I've been studying your web page and enjoying it thoroughly. Have been at this on & off since I was a kid but more seriously the past 20 years or so and even more seriously since I retired lately. I have not joined any formal groups (don't know any) and don't get around much -- except on the internet, and haven't found much there, so I tend to keep my head down and work to challenge myself. I don't think that I know Hillary.? We have been on the same wavelength. Thought you might appreciate the following pic. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturesaws003_zps78badfb1.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Miniaturesaws003_zps78badfb1.jpg.html)
-
You can search on here for Hilary Klein and you will see posts talking about him. He made miniature ( 4 - 5 inch) working copies of 76 different patented adjustable wrenches. Hilary stopped making them a few years ago as he is in his 90's and his eye site is getting to bad for him to continue. Jim Keats is another miniature wrench maker. Both guys made/make from 6 to maybe 12 examples of each wrench and sell them. Hilary is best known of the 2 and some of his wrenches have sold for over $1,600.00 ea in tool auctions.
By the way great stuff you make. I also enjoy the show and tell here and I have peaked at you other pictures posted on the other site mentioned in this thread.
There is another gentleman I believe someplace in the mid West that also make detailed miniatures that rival Paul Hamler. I can't think of his name at the moment.
-
Thanks for the word. I did a search here for Jim Keats and Hilary Klein, and nothing turned up. Can you please give me a little more help to find them? Ralph
-
Anyway, another pic from the archives. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/miniaturetools1015_zps9d4df861.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/miniaturetools1015_zps9d4df861.jpg.html)
-
Hilary Klein:
http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=4575.msg50088
-
Recently I stumbled on to a tool that I decided I just have to have in my collection. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper015_zps523ade63.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Miniaturescraper015_zps523ade63.jpg.html)
After what seemed like a long time build and several reworkings:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraperfin2001_zps847aaf3d.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Miniaturescraperfin2001_zps847aaf3d.jpg.html)
A couple of comparative scale views. I do specialize in miniatures.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraperfin2002_zpsd7215520.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Miniaturescraperfin2002_zpsd7215520.jpg.html)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraperfin3004_zps3d17355a.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/Miniaturescraperfin3004_zps3d17355a.jpg.html)
-
A pair for the well dressed machinest. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/GoldBallPein.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flyingtractors1/media/GoldBallPein.jpg.html)
-
Miniature replica of the 1827 Knowles metal plane cast in sterling silver -- said to be among the first metal planes. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniatureKnowlesPlane001_zpsba27b144.jpg)
-
WOW!! beautiful tools! and they all work? Amazing work. That Drawknife & horse is too cute!!
-
Thanks oldtools. Yes, they all work -- but only on small projects. Here's a special one just for you. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniatureMonkeywrench005_zpsf8081738.jpg)
-
That Knowles plane, is more like jewelry! I really appreciate you sharing your efforts with us. Just how big a magnifying glass do you work with? Thank you.
-
I never paid much attention to minutures until this thread. The more I search them on the web now Ime becoming more and more intrested.
They are very nice looking thoe, I can't even think how much time is put into your collection.
-
Thanks John. You are right; I think of my miniatures as jewelry. It is a line of Fine Pocket Jewelry for the well dressed craftsman. A ministure gold hammer, plane etc. for the well dressed carpenter -- a sterling silver pipe wrench for the well dressed plumber -- a monkey wrench for a jack of all trades, etc. Thanks for your observation. Ralph
-
Thanks Nolatoolguy. Building miniatures is much fun, interesting and very challenging -- especially if they are built to exact scale with close tolerance and to actually work like the full scale tools. I have been working at this for 20+ years on & off as time, patience and resources permit. Another 20 years and I'll have a complete set. Ralph
-
Ralph, do you make your own silver and brass castings? If so, are they investment cast or sand? Tell us a little about your processes.
-
Hi John. Yes I make all my own silver and gold castings (although not so much gold these days). My brass stuff is primarily fashioned and fabricated from flat stock -- cut out, arranged (posed) and silver soldered. I have used the "split half" - cope and drag sand casting process. And and split half plaster mold casting. And "lost wax" casting employing a centrifuge, which I prefer for casting higher quality more detailed pieces. Posted below is a simply sketched example of a "split half" process I have used. The "lost wax" process is a little more complex but basically similar. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castinginfo_zps58fb40d3.jpg)
In the lost wax process a wax model is carved - fashioned from a bar - piece of wax, and it is suspended in a container (flask) into which investment ( plaster ) is poared and allowed to harden under high heat which melts the wax out (lost wax) leaving a cavity in the shape of the model in the plaster into which molten metal is poared. The plaster is then broken off revealing the solid metal piece ready for fileing, sanding, polishing and general finishing. Or something like that. I could describe the process better in volumes, but it's hard to do in a few words. Ralph
-
There is no question in my mind you are a master in your domain. I've enjoyed this thread. Thanks for posting; and welcome to the board.
-
Thanks OilyRascal. I don't know about master yet, but I'm sure working at it. I'm glad that you have enjoyed the thread; it encourages me to keep posting. Ralph
-
Fantastic work Thanks for sharing.
-
Thanks Jim. I'm encouraged to post some others. Ralph
-
Ah ha! I knew those hammers were coming from somewhere!!
The scraper plane is just drop dead killer!!
Knowles? Are you kidding me??
yum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
And what are you getting these pictures with?
yours Scott
-
Probably a Minox spy camera, Scott!
(http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/gadgetlab/MinoxTLX.jpg)
-
You're a funny guy Papaw. I would like to have that tiny spy camera, but actually, I'm useing a Fujifilm FinePix S4000. It's a Nikon knock off at a fraction of the cost, and it works very well for me -- especially in the "micro - micro" mode for very very close up shots as with my miniatures. Anyway, thanks Scott. Yup, thats where tiny hammers come from.
Here are my twins -- joined at the head. I just didn't have the heart to separate them, so I built handles for them and set them up on permanent display.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturetwinhammers005_zpsfe9762ca.jpg)
I just had to have a 112 after I did the 212. And yes, a Knowles, which I really don't know much about except for a picture in a tool book. Ralph
-
My latest -- a cute little Bull nose plane. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Bullnoseplane003_zps167f8be7.jpg)
-
A comparative scale. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Bullnoseplane002_zpsa2925bb2.jpg)
-
The wife thought the tiny Bull nose plane was so cute, and she "would just Love to have a 1/2 size pair for ear rings". That's the thanks I get! As if building the tiny size wasn't tough enough, now I get to do it twice more at half that scale.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniBullnoseplane002_zpsf01b3dbc.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniBullnoseplane004_zps540286f9.jpg)
That was a Challenge. Now an even Greater Challenge will be to make another one just like it. I have found that in fabricating my miniature pieces, every piece is unique, and making another just like it is virtually impossible -- except when employing the "Lost wax" process. But that entails a totally different set of much more complicated procedures, including building and painstakenly and accurately cutting complex rubber molds then injecting them with molten wax to produce identical patterns, etc. etc. So I will try to fabricate an identical piece to complete a set of ear rings. Ralph
-
Ralph- remember-
If Mama ain't happy, ain't no one happy!
-
Well, lets keep Mama Happy. The pair is done. Now I'll figure out how to hang them. Any ideas? Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniBullnoseplaneshand003_zps95a84bf7.jpg)
A comparative scale:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniBullnoseplanes3007_zps6a70be4d.jpg)
-
Just for fun. Ralph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbcCJZY6T5o&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
That's amazing Art.
-
Thank you for sharing your work.
-
Thanks again Gentlemen. Here's one from my archives. Ralph
-
Well, it just didn't make sense to post a tiny picture of a miniature tool. I'll try again. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MicroMiniJackplane006_zps61bf5dc8.jpg)
-
And a video of it in action. Ralph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbcCJZY6T5o&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Ralph Ime curious as to the general idea of how there made? Are they made like a normal tool or do the steps vary?
-
I employ various procedures to construct my tools. In some events the lost wax casting process is used; it is a complex set of procedures but yields highly detailed pieces. I'll try to outline this in a separate post. In the fabrication process the parts are carefully cut out from flat brass stock
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper009_zps64e3b141.jpg)
The parts are laid out in proximity as they belong with soldering flux coating the areas that are to be silver soldered (this is really more like brazing than lead soldering). Often the pieces are pinned or tied (with thin wire) on a ceramic board. This is a very trickey procedure but it is magical because when done right the pieces aren't just "glued" together; they really do become one piece as the parts melt into each other without distortion if the temperature applied is carefully regulated. I have used a butane torch to unite smaller pieces and sometimes need to use an oxy acetylene torch. Sounds simple? Well, maybe it is untill a third piece is to be united with the previously joined parts in a multiple piece part. Keeping in mind that brass melts at 1650 to 1720 degrees Fahrenheit when a particular part requires the joining of several pieces that cannot be laid out for a "one shot" soldering, the first union is soldered with a "hard" solder which melts at 1365 degrees; the next union is soldered with "medium" solder which melts at 1275 degrees, and the third union is soldered with "EZ" solder which melts at 1240. Therefore it is important to observe and carefully regulate the soldering temperature in each case so that the second soldering heat does not remelt the first soldered joint and the third heat does not melt the previous two joints causing everything to fall apart or shift rather than adhere in place (I hate it when that happens). This got wordy because it can be a complicated process and much care must be taken. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper017_zpscbafe9a3.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper020_zpsd0b84a23.jpg)
Lots of fileing, sanding, buffing and polishing:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper024_zps517bb8a5.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper042_zpsffe6d0d5.jpg)
-
In my reply #23 in this string is a crude graphic outlining the "lost wax" process and mold making. It is almost too complicated to explain in a short narrative. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castinginfo_zps58fb40d3.jpg)
-
Wow that's just amazing I still am amazed. Thank you for sharing your proccess.
I did the green cabin below and it took countless hours an boy did I struggle. The precision of everything is so hard for me. That was way bigger then the scale you work with. Even then in know means is mine top notch work.
-
Well, took a couple weeks off to steady my nerves; then came back to do it twice more. And now we have a pair.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SmoothingPlaneEarRings3005_zps9f8e6647.jpg)
In hand
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MicroMiniJackplanepair007_zps3d1ccf1a.jpg)
In a box
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SmoothingPlaneEarRings003_zps07f7db82.jpg)
-
One more shot of intent. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SmoothingPlaneEarRings3003_zps98ca200d.jpg)
-
I bet she is proud to wear them!
-
I'd pierce my ear (either side or both) if I could wear that.
-
A new Stirling Silver Plane in the works. Weighs exactly one ounce at this stage. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverMiniPlane005_zps1a6928b1.jpg)
-
Very nice! Keep us updated as you go.
-
The first page of this post shows an infill plane from my collection. It is about 2 inches long and is hallmarked as made in London around 1990. I forget all the details and I am out of the USA for work at this time. It is sterling silver with wood infill.
http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=4575.0
-
Thanks again, Papaw. I'll keep you posted.
Sorry Lewill2. I am not sure which plane you are referring to. Please clarify. I have built several planes - some of brass and some of silver. Most are 2 inches and some 2 1/2. I also have a collection of 1/8 scale and smaller. Ralph
-
Oh, I found it. For a moment I thought that you were referring to one of my planes. I've gazed at your tiny plane much as I have at other exquisit tiny tools on your post. It was you who introduced me to tools by Jim Keats and Hilery Klein. I have Gaulked at your collection since. Thanks again. Ralph
-
Sorry the 212 and 112 "fell off". I'll try to post em again. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraperfin2007_zps0f22f065.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraperfin2002_zpsd7215520.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/112ScraperPlane2001_zps27ea42d0.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/112ScraperPlane2005_zps61698b14.jpg)
-
Anyway, back to the silver plane. It was a good weekend, and I got things done. The wood parts are Rosewood and were as challenging to produce as the metal parts. But it's in hand now. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverMiniPlane3001_zpsdb9d98a8.jpg)
and on the bench
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverMiniPlane2003_zpsd321a8de.jpg)
-
How do you acquire silver and gold?
-
>How do you acquire silver and gold?
Marry wealth.
-
Hi John and Rusty. Silver is now down 50% and gold is down 35% from a year ago. I have purchased "scrap", actually referred to as "junk" from coin stores and alloyed my own (mixed coin silver with .999 bullion - 3 to 1) to create sterling which I use for casting. Silver and gold shot for casting is also available at jewelry supply stores. I like www.riogrande.com for purchase of flat and wire stock, but there is quite a fabrication charge for that. Anyway, this latest plane weighed out at 1.25 oz which is about $23. silver today (would be about $975. in 14k gold), and it may be the smaller part considering the labor invested to convert it to its present form for which I can surely get my money back should I decide to sell (I have built a few commissioned pieces). That is why I most often work in brass - comparably about $4 worth of metal. But those who commission pieces generally want precious metal. Ralph
-
I've started a new build. This one will be a scraper (#12) - I think. We'll see how / if it turns out. In this one there are some elements new to me and some very delicate operations to perform. That may be why I chose to try this model. I like a challenge and will figure it out as it progresses knowing that sequence, patience and finess are key. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverscraperPlane4002_zpsd6aea266.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverscraperPlane4005_zps9b19997e.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverscraperPlane4007_zps6c1cd796.jpg)
The weekend is coming up, so I expect some good progress - barring any mishaps.
-
Awaiting further pictures!
-
(http://blogimages.thescore.com/nhl/files/2013/06/Shut-up-and-take-my-money.jpg)
-
Thanks Gents. : ) A little more progress already. I just had to get that tiny drilling and tapping done so I could breathe easy. Ever tapped an 0-80 thread? It is difficult to get right - not break in the hole, ruien the whole piece, and it is scarey. But it's done just right now. On to other operations. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild3002_zps57412856.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild2010_zpsfaf5e03b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild2005_zps623c728a.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild001_zps8dc56a2c.jpg)
-
A little more progress today. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild2009_zpsa9917154.jpg)
This turned out to be a complicated piece - three separate silver soldering operations on a tiny piece.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild005_zpseab5418d.jpg)
-
You made the adjustable "frog" in one day?
And the handle too?
Yowza!!
I think I might have some flat head screws if you want.
yours Scott
-
Hi Scott. Yeah, one day, but it was a long day. Having successfully completed the precise, delicate and dangerous operations of tiny drilling and tapping (0-80) without mishap, I caught a second wind and just rolled (flew) with it. About the handle bolts, actually the ones I've seen have domed head screws - but slot head - not phillips. Thanks, but I think I'll just stick with these if Ya think I can get away with it.? I've had some luck, and it's coming together nicely - I think. Should be done in a couple more days. At this stage it is usually a sprint to the finish, but sometimes when I can visualize the finished piece I feel done with it, a sense of closure, and have a hard time getting back to it. Already my eye is on the next build. You keeping busy and staying outa trouble? Ralph
-
Hey Ralph
Oh you can definitely get away with phillips if you want. But proper round head slotted 0-80's?
Well if I knew how long yours are?
These are 90% round head slots.
Its funny I have little boxes like this of screws from 00 to #2, with taps drills etc, and just happened to take a picture of the 0's.
yours Scott
PS I really try hard never to rush at the end. I sometimes have to practically stake myself down like an unruly german shephard.
The last thing you do, is nearly always the first thing you see, for the rest of your life.
Its often the reason you started the project in the first place.
I never want to rush that.
-
Scott, You are truly amazing! Not only are you a generous wealth of knowledge and skill, you are as much a tremendous cache of material resources. Who else would have a stash of round head slotted 0-80 bolts and be readily able to find them at will? And you are always eager to share all with everyone. That, along with your highly developed crafting skill and talents, friendly disposition and other traites makes you such a valuable asset to this forum and beyond. Further, you are a cleaver humorist with a well developed writing skill and captivating style. I would vote for your nomination as Crown Member. I am, as many of us must be, very fortunate to have made your acquaintence and gained your friendship. Thank you. Ralph
-
Well, the parts have come together nicely.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild003_zpsdbfdbe04.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild002_zpsc86543b9.jpg)
And now - endless fine fileing, ever finer grit sanding, and buffing and polishing. Ralph
-
You guys got Talent!!
-
Nice of Scott to pony up some nice screws. Those phillips hedds are a little too clunky. My source for itty bitty bolts and nuts is Wm K Walthers, the model railroad wholesalers. They answer the phone and have a good online catalog.
http://www.walthers.com/ (http://www.walthers.com/)
-
Thanks for the info, John. Scott is indeed a Great Resource and a real gentleman. With him around, what else do we need? Ralph
-
Thanks for the kind words.
But I owe a lot of the little screws to a guy I never got to meet.
A guy who lived right in this tiny town for almost 20 years, and I never even heard of him until he died. He was a close friend of one my best friends too!
His name was Paul, and he was the guy who invented the first fully automatic phonograph needle grinder.
Phonograph needles were big deal in the early days because being plain steel, they only lasted a few records. With nothing but a needle, a diaphragm and a horn reproducing the sound (no amplifiers yet), the needle had to be at its very best.
Paul was the guy who eventually put them up in those little 100 needle tins. At least he was the first.
He was from St Louis. A hopeless inventor, and tinker of many things.
After he died I got his lathe. A small Atlas, which wasn't much of a big deal itself. But along with the lathe came more accessories, by weight, than the lathe by far.
Plus a few choice boxes of hardware, and even a little extra precious wood.
I found out he had been ordering his exotic wood from Craftsman Wood Service the same people I ordered mine from, until they went out of business in the 80's.
We could have known each other the whole time he lived here!!
I was robbed!!
Anyway, I found a couple of small watchmaker stashes of tiny screws myself,
but much of the stash came from Paul.
yours Scott
-
No amount of detailed planning can beat pure dumb luck. (See my new woodworking tools thread). Sorry that you never got to meet him. Sounds like a wonderful mind to get to know. He would probably approve of what you have done with his tools.
-
A new build started. Haven't finished the last one yet but needed a break from that intensity. This is kinda like if my thumb hurt, I smashed my toe as a cure for a sore thumb. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ChariotPlanebuild003_zps243b13cd.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ChariotPlanebuild002_zps0c0c4aa9.jpg)
-
Art, so have you ever tackled or thought of tackling a plow plane?
-
Lewill2, yes, I think about a plow plane all the time. Just haven't been able to wrap my head (nor my hands) around the procedure yet as I tend to do with most projects before starting. I haven't thought much about building a wood model now (I know I can do that), but have visualized a nice metal model and am working mentally (as I first must) to visualize the build process start to finish. Then I'll start. Right now it seems that some parts would need to be cast, which I can do with wax models, plaster molds, centrifuge, molten metal, etc, etc, but I want to build a fabricated model and am trying to figure out how to do that without having to set up for a complicated casting set of procedures. Can't seem to figure that out - might have to do a cast model? I'll think about it some more. Ralph
-
Lewill2, Thanks. You've just prompted my higher level thinking with your thought about building a plow plane. As I stated, I have been pondering this for quite some time, and something just now clicked in my brain, Now I think that I can see it and the procedures - just vaguely, but I can see it -I think. Now you've done it - launched me into my next obsession. Everything else is on hold while I wrap my brain around this project and "get my hands dirty". Perhaps I shouldn't have committed to it mentally nor said anything, but something just clicked, and I've got to try it.
Are you back in the country now? I'll try to keep you posted. Just ordered some material and stuff I need to start. Ralph
-
Back in the USA until Monday and then back to Bogota for 2 weeks. I still check in every day/night from the hotel on my laptop. Can't do without my Tool Talk fix every day!
-
By the way sorry for getting you off track on your other projects. I started out collecting screw arm plow planes before I really went to the dark side and started collecting wrenches. I had over 120 screw arm plow planes and a few screw arm sash planes. I sold a few about a year ago but I still have about 85 in my plane collection. They take up a little more room then wrenches. Converted gun cabinets make good display cases for a lot of my plane collection. Custom Lexan boxes house the rest of the planes.
-
Hi, I do admire your collection. You know, I needed derailing / redirecting, and something just clicked. I have been pondering a plow plane for quite sometime now, and a little nudge put me on its trail. Thanks. I'll use both wood and metal - what a brainstorm! I've got a good start - I can visualize it now. What do ya think? Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlanePlans_zpse88476c4.jpg)
-
I like it and can't wait to see the progress as it comes together.
-
Now ThaT is a beautiful tote Raf.
Going to be a drop dead cool plane too!
I love the idea.
Ebony and gleaming nickel silver could be real nice.
At the scale you work anything is possible in materials!
Deep red Indian rosewood and 10k yellow gold maybe? :)
Just making sure to be a bad influence, as ever... heh heh
yours Scott
-
Well Gents, we are under way. Carved a couple models for the body.
Scott,
I like the way you think. I considered Ebony and Silver, but, ironically lack the Ebony.
Built a Rosewood body.
Carved a Cocobolo body for the sake of more distinct grain pattern.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlanebody002_zpsf2f415f8.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlanebody004_zps62480761.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlanebody005_zpsbb642f58.jpg)
Now I'm imagining Cocobolo and polished brass. Might try Silver accents??? You know, I'm making it up as it progresses, Though I have a picture of the mechanics in mind, materials selection is as important. I'm going to build only one final product, if I can do even that, but will experiment some with materials and design. Ralph
-
A little progress today. Working very tenatively, therefore slow. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane2003_zps2a674a82.jpg)
-
Some pregress. This has been more difficult than I had imagined, but it's coming along. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane3002_zpsfaca7d3c.jpg)
-
On break now from the plow plane build to finish the Chariot Plane. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ChariotPlanebuildfin002_zps668c3bbc.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ChariotPlanebuildfin003_zpsbeb46986.jpg)
-
Just outstanding!!!
We are blessed that you joined up here and show us your work.
-
Just outstanding!!!
We are blessed that you joined up here and show us your work.
X2 !!!
This has been more difficult than I had imagined, but it's coming along. Ralph
If you think it's difficult, you should see it from a laymans point of view!!
Please keep taking pics, and telling your story, we are all paying attention.
Thanks
Brian
-
WOW!! you got talent!! beautiful work...
-
Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate and am motivated by your encouraging thoughts. It is I who am fortunate to have found this forum where we of like minds and intests can relate and share. A little more progress. Preparing the plane body to receive the blade (used a miniature saw from the tool collection to do the job). Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DSCF1617_zps290670db.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DSCF1611_zps5c596388.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DSCF1609_zps66b9f1a5.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DSCF1608_zps61074db4.jpg)
-
Here's a bunch of parts that I ditn't - couldn't use, not to mention those that found their proper place in the trash can. Isn't it something how, even with a small project, one can end up with a bench top full of tools and pieces / parts all over. On the plow plane I've had to build just about every part at least twice. It is progressing but slow. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlaneX_zps1932759c.jpg)
-
Lever cap, knurled bolt (1-72) and blade . . . seems like such insignificant small parts. Well small they are - have to be, and that makes it such a big accomplishment toward the whole project. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlanecap_zps327a9d04.jpg)
-
Have a good start on a new project. Several are unfinished, but when I run into a wall, a change of concentration sometimes helps. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Rabbitplane2_zpsfff3a64d.jpg)
-
Ralph, I haven't commented on your miniature production before, but, Dang! These are just amazing and beautiful!
-
omg, lol...you should make a dinning set...could do Hay Fork - Forks, Spade - Spoons, Saw - Stake Knives etc. That would be awesome.
-
Thanks Gents. I appreciate your thoughts.
Yup, I can make a spade and a pick or two.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/pickandshovelsaws001_zpsd6fde5d4.jpg)
And have a good collection of saws.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/pickandshovelsaws003_zps26f4b11b.jpg)
See them in action on YouTube. Ralph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84o1OlXF-7A&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
Just never know where the limits are.
-
The Rabbet Plane is coming along. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Rabbitplane4002_zps613bde9d.jpg)
-
Turned out nicely. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Rabbitplanefin005_zps669d684d.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Rabbitplanefin009_zps999cbcf4.jpg)
-
WOW!!
-
WOW!!
Ditto!
-
Beautiful work Art.
-
Thanks, Gents.
Some progress on the Plow Plane. The fence turned out to be another complicated part of this project. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane3004_zps4211a9af.jpg)
-
Coming along nicely, I'm glade I poked you about a plow plane. Can't wait to see the completed plane.
-
Yes, Coming along nicely.
I'm grateful for the idea and encouragement. After a little tweeking, the two major parts fit together well (the margine for error was zero). Now awaiting arrival of left hand tap and die for the wheel shaft, and need to work on some other finishing parts. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane3005_zps1b468ddb.jpg)
-
Wow that is nice! Cute little thing.
-
Oh! What a beauty!!
-
WOW!! Work of art!!
-
Thanks Gents. A little more progress. Turned the knobs and fit the blade and lever cap. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane4003_zps26e12e5c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane4004_zps6bbb9150.jpg)
-
Got the wheel threads cut today, installed the wheel (it fit and works perfectly), and I think it's finished - if anything ever really is. May need to replace some of the damaged hardware and oil and polish it up well and etc. etc. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5012_zpse030a6fb.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5015_zps2dae7327.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5014_zpsbbaa6e6e.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5007_zps19440399.jpg)
-
Fantastic is all I can say!
-
Remember this one from page 5 (several weeks ago)?
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild002_zpsc86543b9.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuild003_zpsdbfdbe04.jpg)
Finally got around to finishing it. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuildfin5004_zps17e29cb9.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuildfin5005_zps58e32d37.jpg)
-
Ralph, as usual, wonderful work. You get more work done in a day than I get done in a week!
-
Thanks John. Actually, this one has been on the back burner for a month or so. And, now and then, I post a piece made years ago and recently rediscovered among my old stuff and dusted off for show. Ralph
-
WoW WoW WoWWWW !!!
Both the plow and the #12 already??And so beautiful!! Way to go!!
Ralph we are going to have to tie you down!! heeh heheheh
yours Scott
-
Amazing work, Master pieces.. We need to post a Title (Signature) for Ralph... "Top miniature tool craftsman" or something!!
(Art Rafael search list; famous painter, archangel, etc..)
-
Amazing work, Master pieces.. We need to post a Title (Signature) for Ralph... "Top miniature tool craftsman" or something!!
(Art Rafael search list; famous painter, archangel, etc..)
How about "Tool Maker to the Leprechauns Extraordinaire ?"
-
I'll give Ralph time to choose his own, but if not- A title will be bestowed on him.
-
Thanks Gentlemen. You may call me anything that is fitting - just don't call me late for dinner. I had meant to post a comparative scale pic of the 112.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverscraperbuildfin006_zpsca75314f.jpg)
-
Working on a 1/4 scale Frog and plane now, and find it a real challenge to make the pieces fit well and work. Don't know yet how I'll build the blade and chip breaker nor the lever cap - not sure I can, but still trying. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlaneFrog2002_zpsa7b1d7a5.jpg)
-
The classic Stanley #4, the all time production champion of any plane ever made, is the hardest to make a miniature of. No one ever pulled it off very successfully.
A guy made some "Bedrock" #1 sized planes for Pat Leach for a little while. Those were 5" long. I have seen a number of ill fitting tries at smaller tools. Nothing outstanding though.
Paul Hamler did a Stanley #35 transitional, another really tough mini to pull off. I think it was his greatest achievement but nobody else agrees with me, heh.
You won't have a lot of trouble with the lever cap, don't worry about that part Partner.
Accurately carving the tote will be tougher.
Go Ralph Go!!
yours Scott
-
Thanks Scott. You are so Right - on several counts. That's just like you.
I may have suspected way in the back of my mind that the wood work
would be the Greatest challenge, but it didn't come to lite till you mentioned it.
But I'll start trying to wrap my brain around it.
I have just had a lesson on how to better appreciate a "simple" Lever Cap
with the proper, working mechanism - lever. Just build one 1/4 scale with a cam and a lever which work together to make the part functional (actually, I suspect that
you already have).
THE # 4! That's how it started, but I've had to change some dimensions to make the mechanisms work.
Ya know, the Reynolds Numbers got me again - every time That I push the limit.
I started out to show my "it was a real trick to make" lever cap. That was a learning experience.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Planelevercap001_zps5ac41116.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Planelevercap002_zps9191d25e.jpg)
-
what do you use for the mini cutting blades?
-
Hi. Sometimes I use commercial X-acto blades modified as needed. And I like to use steel banding strap - cut shaped and sharpened. I'm always looking for better stuff to. Any ideas? Ralph
-
Way to go on the lever cap Ralph!!
In full size they are not very hard to make, but the smaller it gets...............
I'm always looking for better stuff. Any ideas? Ralph
Xacto blades are great. Ditto utility knife blades.
Xacto razor saw blades are thin and perfect for saws and scrapers.
For thicker blades, well circular saws are meant for, wait for it, cutting wood! The hardness and temper of a circular saw blade is just about ideal.
So the thinnest circular saw blades could be very nice. Some of the small 4 and 6" diameter blades are pretty thin. Maybe the gauge is right.
They make smaller thinner blades, sold in the machinist section as slitting saws, but they aren't really free.
Metal cutting band saw blades!! Are ideal when they are "hardback" saws. These come in lots of widths and thicknesses. The hardback is very cheap (compared to bi-metal which won't work for you anyway). Sometimes you can get a 10 foot blade, 2" wide, for 5 bucks!
Ordinary hacksaw blades would be good for the smallest blades. Again the cheap ones would be better than bi-metal, which is high speed steel edge welded to a soft metal backing.
The cheapo ones are uniform all through.
Floor scraper "insert" blades are almost thin enough, and hard as the gates of hades. In a small blade, grinding thinner won't be so difficult.
Disk sanders work, and so do belt grinders.
I use neo magnets to hold steel I need to grind, that is hard to hold.
yours Scott
-
Great ideas!! I have some spring steel stock, (2" X 4" X ~30 gage) I use for scrapers. they last & work great when properly burnished..
-
Great ideas, Scott. I knew that you had been down that road and would know the best options. And yes, oldtools. I do believe that spring steel would work well. I'll have to broaden my resource bank now that my awareness has increased -- It's called growth, and I keep growing with every endeavor. Thanks
Compared to the "frog", the lever cap was a cake walk. Oh my goodness!!! the number of operations performed on such a small piece(1/4 scale) is mind blowing - holes drilled and shoulder recessed in precise dimension, square hole cut, oval recession, threaded holes at various angles. And in their tight proximity and precision.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Planefrog4001_zpse6e2d477.jpg)
-
The lever cap cleaned up nicely. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Levercap5001_zps0be98fe9.jpg)
-
Well guys, I got on a roll and had to stay up and finish the #4. I believe that it turned out just fine. Putting a perfect edge on the blade was tough, but that worked out very well too. The lever cap locks in right, and the blade adjustment knurled nut worked out fine too. I do have a couple concerns before I attempt to build another, if I ever do, and would like some input from someone who has done this before or, for that matter, from anyone who knows anything about these mechanisms. I do feel that I've earned a break after this build. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4Planefin_zpse7fe7142.jpg)
click here to see it in action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuU4fPxAnJs&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Art, you hit it out of the park again, another nice example of your great craftsmanship.
-
Way to go! Terrifically challenging project Ralph! Making the frog had to be the worst part.
Leonard Bailey's frog design stands as the pinnacle of plane manufacture these past 150 years. But making a new one from scratch, especially in a diminutive size, has always challenged even the most adventurous toolmaker.
The cap iron, as well as the lever cap, will also throw miniature makers for a loop most times.
Classic, this is a classic
yours Scott
-
Thanks, Gents. I appreciate your thoughts. The #4 was indeed a challenging project, and I learned much in the process. I'm designing a "new" frog and just might try a whole new plane. We'll see how it goes. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/newfrog001_zps7df3b68c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/newfrog002_zpsc14dbbf5.jpg)
-
I am going to try to cast a copy of the #4. This is quite a complicated and lengthy process. It starts by creating master patters of each individual component and arranging and mounting the parts so that they can be suspended in a frame to create a rubber mold. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild009_zps6ac19ea4.jpg)
-
Master Patterns are works of art in their own right. Here are the masters for the pipe wrench and the monkey wrench. This is how the parts were arranged to create the molds that resulted in my finished tools. I suppose that full scale tools may have been pressed (pounded) on giant machines, but I employed the methods available to me. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MasterPatterns002_zpsece9b25b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MasterPatterns001_zps1093f8ff.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/BenchandToolsleftside003_zps7ef6d42f.jpg)
-
You sure do some amazing work.
-
Thanks, HeelSpur. I do like the way the #4 turned out, so will attempt to build a duplicate. The Lost Wax process works just right for duplicating identical parts. With the master pattern constructed, rubber molds will be built to produce identical parts in wax which will then be placed in plaster (invested) then melted out (lost), and the remaining cavity will be filled with molten metal (cast).
First - the master is suspended in a frame, and rubber strips are packed all around it then baked to vulcanize.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild001_zps178cbe5c.jpg)
The master pattern encased in solid vulcanized rubber.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild002_zpsdea81b74.jpg)
then carefully cut out
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild004_zpsd0fcab82.jpg)
leaving the cavity into which wax is injected
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild005_zps049b80e2.jpg)
resulting in exact copies of the master pattern.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild006_zpsc496c4a4.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4planebuild007_zpscf741df8.jpg)
The wax patterns never turn out perfect, and some repairs are necessary (hopefully minimal). Additional shrinkage components are sometimes added.
Then the plaster mold making begins. (I'm not there quite yet -- more as I get to it.)
-
You still have molds for all your other tools?
So with duplicates, you plan on selling them?
-
Hi, Thanks for your interest. The fabricated tools are all individually hand made one-of-a-kind items. I have molds for most of my cast tools. The pattern and mold making and casting procedures, which I do all in house, are so intensive that it is hardly worth doing and not cost effective except for personal accomplishment / gratification, so, in most cases, I've built very few copies - some times only one. Even at a low hourly rate, the production cost would seem quite prohibitive and precious metal models accordingly more so. I have comissioned a few pieces but, as a man of modest means, could never afford my own art, nor can I hardly afford now to part with them. For example, a 14k gold #4 plane contains about $1400 worth of gold and takes up to 60 hours to build - not to mention materials consumed in their creation ( rubber, wax, plaster, oxy/act, sanding, buffing, polishing, etc. ), and the equipment ( turning, milling, drilling, threading, fileing, etc ) is costly. It would be nice to find a broad market for my wares, but in the mean time, I am a collector and sometimes gift some pieces to special people. Ralph
-
I'm posting more details cuz I thought that some might find the process interesting and hope that I'm not boaring anyone nor wasting your time.
After the wax pattern is suspended in a flask and surrounded by plaster, the vessel is baked in incrimentally higher heat, and the wax burnes out and the mold solidifies.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess2004_zps4cab14a2.jpg)
The mold is arranged with a crucible on the casting machine; the metal is made molten and shot centrifigally into the cavity in the mold as the aparatus spins This may be the most exciting part of the whole procedure, and it is the part where the most can go wrong. The mold can break, etc. spilling out molten metal all over the place causing quite a hazard and costing the loss of the metal. This has happened to me when I was casting gold; it was a very bad day. Though I was not injured, it scared the heck out of me, my pride was hurt and much of the gold was lost as it splattered all over.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess2002_zpsb4b4cbdd.jpg)
Today it all went well, and some usable pieces resulted when the mold was broken open ( each mold can be used only once ).
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess002_zps29021ad8.jpg)
A wax pattern along side a cast counterpart.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess3_zps3c128b49.jpg)
It is easy to see that, after all this, there is much work to be done seperating the parts ( when several parts are cast in one mold ), fileing, finishing , etc.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess004_zps6903050b.jpg)
-
Thank you for sharing what you do. I've enjoyed both seeing your work and learning your processes. I'd be interested in better understanding your background given the extent to which you know these processes and have the tools (centrifuges, ovens, etc.) available to use.
-
+1 with oily's request
-
Art, as always interesting stuff. I'm like the other guys commenting keep the how to's coming they are as interesting as the final products.
-
Just look at the "views" counter there are a whole bunch of us following this post.
-
Hi All. Thank you for your interests. It may be time that I introduce myself properly. I am a Teacher of 30 years with degrees in Industrial Arts - now retired, having thoroughly enjoyed my career working with children, much of it teaching in the wood and metal shops till I was placed in charge of the school retaining a keen eye on the crafts and trades we taught. Now many, if not most public schools, have closed down their wood and metal shops and have auctioned off the equipment for pennies on the dollar. Some of it found its way affordably home with me where I continue to practice the craft - alone now.
As a child, I could often be found in my Grandfather's carpentry shop or in the village blacksmith shop observing and practicing the trades which became my college majors and ultimately my profession. Tools and their use have always been my passion. I used hand tools to build and repair many things along the way, and now have found that building tools and using them is natural to me, and the teacher in me insists on sharing my passions. I still love my craft and thoroughly enjoy vicariously visiting my Grandpa's shop by creating in miniature the tools that I believe he would love to see. He always let me know how proud of me he was when I built something, and he assured me that I would grow up to be a skilled crafter. As long as I do this, he is with me, and I feel gratified by the process and the results in building miniature tools.
Along the way, I realized that I would need to master new arts if I was to succeed in the creation of masterful miniatures. Having had exposure to some of the work of the old masters, Rafael, etc., I researched the old arts and, being a good learner as I was a good teacher, taught myself the ancient arts of pattern design, mold making and lost wax and sand casting and the improved methods in contemporary use. Again, the equipment was inexpensively acquired, given my modest retirement means, and in some cases, created by repurposing discarded stuff. My vacuum machine and vibrating table were fashioned from a salvaged refrigator compressor and the aparatus from an old lounging easy chair vibrator.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess2003_zps213b8aa4.jpg)
I could never afford to purchase many of the tools that I adored but resorted to building miniature versions for my collection. No, I still don't have much money; I have more than that. I have a growing interest in and a passionate love of tools and their function. I have accomplished much of what I do on guts alone. In this forun, I know that I am not alone at all and that interest in the crafts and tools is alive and well. Thanks again to all of you. Ralph
-
Thanks for sharing your castings projects! very interesting!
-
I still don't have much money; I have more than that. I have a growing interest in and a passionate love of tools and their function. I have accomplished much of what I do on guts alone.
The quote of the day!!!
-
I agree with his statement! He "succeeded in the creation of masterful miniatures"
A true Master Artist... I can see why his grandpa was so proud, He grew up to be a skilled crafter...
Thank you for sharing your skills, knowledge, and crafts... education is one thing we can always use...
-
Gentlemen, Thank you. I do appreciate your thoughts and your interest in my stuff. Ralph
The #4 Sterling Silver plane is finished. I took a liberty here and there for artistic reasons. Surely Grandpa would be proud.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silver4-5_zps547e4161.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silver4-4_zps6c7ab4e7.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silver4-2_zpse5a413f7.jpg)
-
Silver ghost
I love it!! :)
yours Scott
-
Now that is super special...
-
Thanks, HeelSpur.
Of course, I had to build a gold model. May finish it this weekend - Lord willing and the creek don't rise again. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess104002_zps4d84f136.jpg)
-
Beautiful piece!!
How much gold? must cost a fortune $$$...
-
Ralph - Needless to say I'm in awe over your work.
Just throwing it out there. If you are able to recover metals from electronic components I could likely make your day with old CPUs, cell phones, and the like. I can't imagine a better repurpose.
-
Thanks, Gents. I wish I had a gold recovery system. For this model I used some old class rings I had saved back for a special purpose. This cast took 2.0 oz and yielded a piece weighing in at 1.54 oz. I recovered .39 and lost .07. A bit always sticks to the crucible, and some fileings along with some drilling chips, etc. couldn't be salvaged totaling about $39 -- the cost of doing this business. At $1400 gold today, 1.54 oz of 10 kt is worth almost $900. This is one way to multiply its value (some jewelry often sells at up to 10 X its material weight). But if I don't sell it, I've turned its value into $0 ( in fact, I lost $39 and several day's work), and all I have to show for it is a nice small solid gold plane. Oh well, I think that it is better to have than those ugly old class rings. I am eager to see it finished -- pictures soon. Ralph
-
I have been quietly following this thread. Every time I think, wow, that's the most awesome miniature I have seen, you go and post something else that makes me go ..wow!
>some drilling chips, etc
The most bizarre job we ever did was fixing a window at a gold casting plant, 4 security guards stood right behind us and watched everything we did, and a lady with a vacuum cleaner vacuumed up while we were drilling holes in the wall, on the off chance some tiny specs of gold might have settles on the wall. Another lady walked around in circles all day long vacuuming the floor over and over again.
Earlier you were melting vulcanized rubber, have you played with RTV silicones?
A nice lady I know used to make prototype jewelry and used the RTV rubber for wax casting of pewter...(direct, no lost wax)
-
Hi Rusty. Thanks for appreciating my work. I used every means I could to recover every speck of gold, but haven't vacuumed the floor yet; it may eventually be worth doing. I have heard of silicone molds and haven't worked with it yet but do believe that I'll try it - anything to make the job easier.
The gold #4 is turning out beautifully. Pictures soon. Ralph
-
The Golg #4 is finished. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114008_zpsd75f7089.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114010_zps8e12c4cc.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114019_zps9ae2198c.jpg)
Together the Gold #4 and the Silver #4 make quite a pair.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114020_zpsb7296107.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114012_zps92bb70eb.jpg)
-
I have now seen the elephant! Nobody ever pulled this off before, and in silver and gold no less!!
Its historic.
When we are dead and gone, these will be museum pieces.
About casting.............
Yes, according to several I know, silicone molds and injecting hard wax is definitely the way to go.
They also say (and loudly) that you cannot cast work at home with any particle of the speed and accuracy others will, and the price is not that bad either.
When you find the right company to work with.
Pal Hamler sez...... You send in your waxes, they send back the parts, you maybe ream bushing holes a little, minor polishing the flat parts, brush them up, and put them out on the table for sale.
They come back that finished.
Funny story about gold dust. My friend Peter ran the large downtown jewelry store in Merbourne Au for years. The old central downtown location. He worked there for years and finally bought the place when the opportunity came. And then ran it for another 15-20 years.
They were always hyper careful about gold of course. But 15 jeweler benches is a lot.
When he retired and moved to his home studio it was a last minute gamble whether it was worth it to have the store carpets pulled and refined.
The charge for this was substantial whether anything was found or not. It was quite a wager. He almost didn't do it.
But at the last minute he did.
The report came in 2 weeks later, with a check...........
$30,000
yours Scott
-
Thanks, Scott. Your word is gospel for me. The gold and silver elephants are complete and retired now. I appreciate your analysis and your projections that they will out live us for posterity.
I learned the rubber mold method from an old master years ago, and it has served me well - difficult and complicated as it may be. It may well be time for me to learn new methods and explore silacone procedures, but I don't have a special project just yet. I think that I have reached the peak of my abilities and the limit of interest in my tool building and may now need another diversion - maybe fine jewelry, furniture, miniature engines, etc.
Do you know, off hand, who did Paul Hamler's casting or where I can have it done should I decide to "mass produce"? Although, I really do enjoy the actual metal casting most. But who knows where the interests will lead one next.
Please stay in touch. Ralph
-
Ralph, my friend
You have just hammered down a door others may not pass. You did the improbable, all alone and by the hardest way. Now I think its time to let others in.
Colorado is conveniently located inbetween the largest tool shows of the nation in New England and Washington state. Several other states have pretty big shows too. Nearly every state has a tool show of some kind yearly.
I am just one guy. And an old hillbilly hermit hippie at that.
You have a whole nation out there waiting to meet you. Many terrifically interested, kind and generous people who would like to know you. You have the ability to cover your fare with ease, and thensome.
There are so many things I simply cannot show you.
You have other "fellows" to meet too. This is a pretty small club, but you qualify....
and you can carry your credentials in your pocket. :)
Spread those wings. You earned them.
Its time
yours Scott
-
Scott,
You are too kind. And you are incredibly well informed, well connected and highly aware. I have the greatest regard for you - your skill and vast knowledge about tools, people, places and events. I turly appreciate your insight and perspective and the encouragement you have given me. Surely I'll be back with something new as it happens.
Ralph
-
Saw a pic of this 1827 Knowles ( may be the earliest patented metal plane) and just had to build one. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/KnowelsII1827004_zps0c603c15.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/KnowelsII1827005_zps1865a9cc.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/KnowelsII1827008_zps725b77ab.jpg)
-
Another simple plane that I just had to build. Turns out, this sleigh plane is just about the nicest working plane I've built yet. Ralph
Roughed out
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SleighPlane002_zps56269cfb.jpg)
Finished with Bocote wood accent.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SleighPlane2003_zpsfb79ba5f.jpg)
-
Just finished one in brass with Rosewood that I fashioned from a pic on the net. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SculptedPlane310-13007_zps7fdaa59f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SculptedPlane310-13009_zps57086b31.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SculptedPlane210-13015_zpsb20d02fc.jpg)
-
Those are closer to jewlery, no wonder you made them out of gold! How big a magnifier do you use? Gives me a complex to look at such craftsmanship, wow.
-
Thanks, John.
I do think of my miniatures as jewelry. In the past I created rings, broaches, ear rings, etc., and it lead to creating jewelry for gentlemen (and ladies), which I referred to as my line of "Pocket Jewelry" (c) for the well dressed crafter - a tiny hammer for the carpenter, a miniature pipe wrench for a plumber , etc. Of course the wood working plane became my trademark, and here we are - still building miniatures. I've also built some "desk top" pieces and still do some traditional jewelry, but the 1/4 scale miniature tool is my mainstay.
Ralph
-
I've seen some nice hand built - dove tail planes on the net and decided to try building a miniature of the sort. So far I find the dovetailing at this scale complicated and difficult, but I've got a good start. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DovetailPlane003_zpsbecb52d7.jpg)
-
Art, with all the things you have turned out so far I'm sure a few dovetails won't slow you down to long.
-
As I progress, I've found the dove tails tricky to cut in metal and have made several practice cuts on brass and even on popsicle sticks. Things tend to invert , and it is easy to cut the wrong angle ,etc. I'll play with it some more. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DovetailPlaneparts001_zpse32d7002.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DovetailPlaneparts002_zps567ea0e1.jpg)
-
I measured once then measured again, and then I proceeded to cut the pieces exactly wrong. I'm still trying to get my head around this dove tail joint work. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DoveTailerror002_zpsd9397a00.jpg)
-
You are not alone Ralph.
-
Try and Try again. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DovetailPlanetry2002_zps6b782caa.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DovetailPlanetry2003_zps292d86f3.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DoveTailtrial002_zpsda400e67.jpg)
It's coming together. I'm getting the hang of it.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DoveTailtrial001_zps283dc7a2.jpg)
-
Looking good so far. I like the apron around your vise.
-
Thanks Les. Are you back in the country for the holidays now? Yes, the sole of these planes is sterling silver ( an earlier model was solig gold ), and I had to develop a way to catch the filings; it works pretty well. I should have something to show pretty soon. Ralph
-
Back in the USA for a few weeks, probably back South the first week in December just for the week then home until the new year. Always stopping by as long as I have access to the internet.
-
I think that I've finally got it now. It took three serious attempts and a bunch of errors along the way to get my brain around the dove tail joints and to coordinate my brain, eyes and hands to make the correct cuts. When it is highly buffed and polished the joints disappear. A satin finish seems best. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/3DoveTailfin2001_zps450fef9b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/3DoveTailfin3015_zpseeb28a8c.jpg)
-
WOW! They came out great!
-
Well, I've managed to get a little something done this week - two little somethings. My wife wore her pair of plane ear rings to an outing, and now I have orders for more -- and I mean Orders. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Silverplaneearrings2002_zpseb4ceb9a.jpg)
-
Those are so cool!! I better not let my wife see those, you may have many more orders...
-
A new "scrub plane" in progress. So far, this might be the finest I've built yet. It shaves clean, smooth and perfectly. The tote and knob parts are next. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/giftplane003_zps066a59b4.jpg)
-
In case some of you missed it, there were a few miniatures in the Brown Auction that Lewill2 posted. Here they are.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/johnsironsanctuary/embed/slideshow/Miniature%20Tools"></iframe>
-
Thanks. I need more info on this. . . time, place, etc. please. Ralph
-
It was November 2.
BROWN INTERNATIONAL TOOL AUCTION: SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 2; The 43rd International Antique Tool Auction
-
I have a prices realized list if you are interested in specific lots. Some were Paul Hamler miniatures and some were by other makers.
-
Thanks Les.
I would like to have more info on prices realized by several: small engine, vise, miniature metal tools, and others if you can.
Ralph
-
Lot 422-Instrument Makers planes - $209.05
Lot 423 - Mini Yankee Plow Plane- $73.45
Lot 424 - Mini Planes - $84.75
Lot 425 - Mini Planes - $33.90
Lot 426 - Mini Planes - $158.20
Lot 427 - Mini Planes - $62.15
Lot 428 - Paul Hamler Rosewood Slitting Gage - $361.60
Lot 429 - Paul Hamler Mayo Plow Plane - $762.75
Lot 430 - Paul Hamler Tidley Bevel Plane - $791.00
Lot 431 - Paul Hamler Sandusky Center Wheel Plow Plane - $706.25
Lot 432 - Paul Hamler Stanley 44 Plow Plane - $395.50
Lot 433 - Paul Hamler Sargent Lady Bug - $565.00
Lot 434 - Christopher Laarman Cast Bronze Mini - $565.00
Lot 435 - Barry Weaver Level - $508.50
Lot 436 - Barry Weaver Level - $536.75
Lot 444 - Miniature Vise - $169.50
Lot 448 Gas Engine - $384.20
Prices include 13% buyers premium
If you have any other specific lot numbers let me know.
-
The scrub plane is finished. Made of brass with Ebony tote and knob with a steel blade. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/giftplane3002_zpsa74f38d6.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/giftplane3003_zps5f9e47df.jpg)
-
Another beautiful looking piece. These are the kinds of things that one has to be able to see with his/her own eyes to really appreciate the workmanship.
-
Thanks Les. Yes, and actually using one gives it another dimension.
Saw a pic of this little cutie on the net and just had to have one. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplane003_zps27d1125c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplane2003_zps969540b8.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplane007_zpsdb02fc11.jpg)
-
I liked this little plane so much just had to build another one, and I rarely build two of anything. This one in brass with Rosewood accents, so it's a little different. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplanepair003_zpsed01ac35.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplanepair004_zps71a0659b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Ebonysmoothingplanepair012_zps8290d07c.jpg)
-
Sorry to have been away so long. A little heart problem.
I'm back but maybe a little shaky.
So these latest little plerps are darling Ralph! I could eat them up with a spoon!! I love the racy styling and the lever caps are a major step up! The blade top decoration goes down real easy in my eyes too.
The scrub plane is extra scrumptious. That tote is rockin! I love a little extra cushion for the pushin at the bottom. :)
But I have to say the infills totally destroy me!! Never thought I'd see hand cut miniature infills. As far as I know this is the first time anyone anywhere, ever, pulled this off. I am probably wrong and there might have been a few I never saw, but the list has got to be very very small indeed.
Congratulations from the bottom of my heart!!
OK that might be lousy. I'll pick a healthier body part next time heehehehheheheehe
Question.......
what is your average blade angle? Stanley were always 45degrees. Back though antiquity 45 was semi standard.
Most infills are either 47 1/2 or 50 to deal with figured wood. Harder to push but less tearout.
yours Scott
-
Hey Scott, It sure is good to hear from you. I've been worried - even thought about asking the other guys on the forum if anyone knew anything about you or had cause for concern. I feared what I might learn, but rightfully shuda asked anyway. I do hope that you are doing better and that your prognosis is positive. Good health makes everything else pale in importance.
I do believe that my hobbies are the medicine that give me purpose and direction, keeping me busy and promoting a sense of well being, though I've had some bouts and encounters with danger. Please take care of yourself and make living the highest priority.
Thanks for your observations on my latest builds. I really have been keeping busy in my "work shop" since in Colorado it's been so darned cold that one can't venture out much. Ready or not winter is here, and it will be a long one, so guess I'm in for the season.
Ya know, those infill - dove tail planes were quite a challenge (especially at 1/4 scale), but I had to do it when someone challenged me saying that they were not authentic with soldered butt joints and required dove tailing for authentic acceptance. WOW!! What a challenge! But I'd now say not as challenging as the "authentic " functional #4s miniatures that I had built earlier.
Oh well, on to other things. I've started a new miniature plane build. This one is an original design and will be different from my earlier builds. Up to now, I have attempted to produce a small copy / representation / simulation of full scale planes that I have seen (in "person" or in pictures). Since this is an "original" compilation of pieces and parts in my awareness, I'll call it a "Shoe Plane". Ralph
Parts cut from flat stock brass.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild001_zpsbaeda3dd.jpg)
Parts arranged in proximity
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild002_zps6d5b227b.jpg)
Pinned and silver soldered to form a unibody.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild004_zps45417f40.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild007_zps57753c57.jpg)
More as it develops. Ralph
-
Sorry that I overlooked the question of blade angle on my planes. I don't really have a standard angle, and don't measure anything. I tend to work strictly by eye. That is, I set the angle where it is pleasing to the eye and best accommodates the proportions of the plane. On short squatty planes I tend to raise the angle, yet I have found that lower angles seem to shave better. I guess that I generally find 45 degrees most appealing. A t any rate, most of my planer turn out at about that. Ralph
-
Some progress. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild013_zpsc8f8d784.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuild015_zpse463cd3f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuildfin001_zps5b035d22.jpg)
-
Ok now you have my attention, I didn't see that style handle coming. That is looking like another super creation. I like it a whole bunch.
-
Thanks Les. I think it's done. Having experimented with several wood types and grains, I settled on Bocote, and it finished up nicely. I'm calling this model a "Shoe Plane" because my son said that it looks like a shoe - maybe it does or not, but the name stuck. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuildfin003_zps97b67d8f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlaneBuildfin006_zps92550a0f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlanefin2003_zps9a0c7709.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlanefin2004_zpsce475ee3.jpg)
and one more
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ShoePlanefin2017_zpsb11a1a61.jpg)
-
Another great job, you really have an eye and hands for miniature making.
-
Thanks Les. The more I work at it - the more I like it and the better I think things turn out. Now pondering the next piece. Ralph
-
That's a real beauty! And yes, it does look like a shoe.
-
Hi All. Many of you have seen pics of my craft and watched videos that I have posted and have encouraged me along. Thank you. Some might wonder about the extent of my collection as I did, so I rounded up the pieces I could find (I have gifted some and just can't readily find others - stashed here and there).
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/miniplanespic_zpsf14bb375.jpg)
To see some "action" footage go to my YouTube page -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZgUuEFBeEk&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Some might wonder about the extent of my collection as I did, so I rounded up the pieces I could find (I have gifted some and just can't readily find others - stashed here and there).
OMG! Swoon. Thud.
-
I'm trying hard to come up with the right words. I just can't. I'm mesmerized.
-
Words won't express our pleasure at having you on Tool Talk!
We are very fortunate to have you as a member.
-
Thanks Gentlemen. Creating art is great. Appreciating art is greater. Thanks again.
Papaw, I assure you that the pleasure of being a member of this forum is mine. I thoroughly enjoy scrolling through the threads and have learned lots and been much encouraged and inspired. Ralph
-
What a gaggle of beautiful miniatures. I see the shoe hiding in the back. Looks like a miniature inlaid toolbox should be in the works with a custom fitted spot for each one to call home.
-
Thanks again Les. "Gaggle" is good. : ) Yes, the shoe - and the center wheel plow plane that you inspired. I do need a special tool chest / box now. I've been pondering that since I gathered all these up and realized that I don't really have a special place for many of them. I'll work on that. Ralph
-
Some might wonder about the extent of my collection as I did, so I rounded up the pieces I could find (I have gifted some and just can't readily find others - stashed here and there).
OMG! Swoon. Thud.
Me too! Merry Christmas Ralph, and thanks for inspiring all of us.
-
Thanks Les. The more I work at it - the more I like it and the better I think things turn out. Now pondering the next piece. Ralph
Have you ever had a interest in perfect handled tools. Those I think would be interesting to see. What about a perfect handle wrench or something along those lines?
Either way whatever you do ime sure will be fantastic.
-
I have thought about wrenches of sorts and may need to branch off in that direction. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WorkBenchampToolboard007_zps68ce57a2.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MiniatureMonkeywrench005_zpsf8081738.jpg)
-
And have built the essentials -- Master Pattern, Rubber Mold and Wax Patterns and a limited production run (all I needed was 1), but all set to produce more of this model. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Monkeywrenchmoldamppattern2002_zps71bd84d1.jpg)
-
I am almost afraid to see a penny laid next to that monkey wrench. Remarkable, fantastic, and envious as all heck.
-
My guess is that it is laying on graph paper with 1/4 inch grid lines.
-
Yes. 1/4 inch grid background. I've misplaced my penny. Ralph
-
Misplaced? You probably melt pennies down to make miniature tool parts!
-
Yeah. : ) I have, but only the real copper ones. Ralph
-
By all means, if there is anything I might route to your for recycling please let me know; pennies, cpu's, lead, etc. Clearly it would be re-purposed into objects with class.
-
Thank you, OilyRascal. You and many of the members of this forum already have already provided me with the most essential elements to my industry - your attentive support, encouragement, motivation, incentive and affirmation. I appreciate it very much and am fortunate to be in your virtual presence. Ralph
ps: I am in constant search of exotic tight grained wood scraps that would make nice tool handles.
-
Thank you, OilyRascal. You and many of the members of this forum already have already provided me with the most essential elements to my industry - your attentive support, encouragement, motivation, incentive and affirmation. I appreciate it very much and am fortunate to be in your virtual presence. Ralph
ps: I am in constant search of exotic tight grained wood scraps that would make nice tool handles.
Ralph - please further explain "exotic tight grained wood scraps". I would enjoy a contribution if I were able.
-
I've really been enjoying this thread Ralph. Great stuff!!
Jim C.
-
Thanks Jim C. I've learned lots from your posts, and it's all in my main vein of interest. I'll keep watching. Ralph
-
Hi again Oily Rascal. I don't mean to put anybody to any trouble. I just meant that I like to use different / unusual types of wood on the handles of my miniature tools - totes, knobs etc. (small pieces), and I like to use wood with very close / tight growth rings so that it looks scale with my miniatures. I have used Ebony, Bocote, Cocobolo and such along with many domestic hard woods but would like to try something new (new to me). Some crafters keep an odds and ends scrap wood bin with some such stuff. I don't even know what to call it - but there maybe some stuff around that I don't even know about. Ralph
-
You are amazing!! ~2"? what material? looks like brass...
looks like you drilled through the movable jaw & threaded a hole for the drive screw. and notched the fixed for the knurl nut. did you braze the handle on? I have some merbau wood if you want..
-
Hi oldtools,
If you mean my "post #210" - the monkey wrench picture with the rubber mold and wax pattern and the master pattern, you are right on all counts - except that the finished wrench with the wood handles is silver, and the master mold on the right is gold - one can almost make out the "10k" mark where the three branches join (in those days 20 years ago) I valued the master molds highly and gold was "cheap", and I liked the Romanticism of the old art of pattern and mold making. The master is now worth 10 X what it was then (who would a known?). I did drill a hole the length of the movable jaw and threaded it 0-80 (that was a trick to do), and then notched for the thumb screw (knurled by hand in those days) and silver soldered the handle on. It turned out 2" long (1/4 scale to an old model I had)
You are very observant to deduce all that from one picture. I imagine that you have a good eye for mechanisms of all sorts. Ralph
And you may remember these:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/MasterPatterns002_zpsece9b25b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PipeWrenchcomission004_zpsf508ad5a.jpg)
ps: I do have some Merbau.
-
And have built the essentials -- Master Pattern, Rubber Mold and Wax Patterns and a limited production run (all I needed was 1), but all set to produce more of this model. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Monkeywrenchmoldamppattern2002_zps71bd84d1.jpg)
But first it goes without saying that the Master pattern and Master mold had to be created to get us to this stage. The Master mold building was presented on page 10, and below is a pic of how the Master pattern was constructed which yielded the mold. Each component was hand carved / filed of hard wax and arranged with proper flow channels - that is, connected together with softer wax wire to form a single piece and providing channels for the molten metal to reach every part then suspended in a plaster filled flask. Then it was burnt out (lost wax), and remaining cavity in the plaster mold was injected with molten metal, cooled and finished (filed, sanded and buffed to perfection). This could be the end of the process if only one piece was desired, but to produce multiple copies - a Master Pattern has to be free of imperfections because every little detail will transfer to the rubber mold and then appear on the resulting secondary patterns.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/bluepatternpieces3_zps83cd5bc3.jpg)
-
Master mold lubricated and ready for injection.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Mastermold-empty_zps2d24d64b.jpg)
Injection
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Mastermoldwaxinjector_zpsb03e4702.jpg)
3 copies form a casting tree. It is often more efficient and cost effective to cast multiple pieces in one mold, but the possible hazards are multiplied when a heavier pour is conducted. This cast will call for 3.0 ounces - about the maximum that I dare.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Monkeywrenchtreeof3_zps905ef3f8.jpg)
The tree is mounted in a flask. I do have fancy professional flasks but sometimes resort to an old tried and true 12 0z soup can.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/3waxincan_zps5198540f.jpg)
The plaster is mixed in proper proportion, and air is vacuumed and vibrated out on a shake table under a bell jar hooked up to a vacuum pump.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/plastercansinvacuumpump_zps41269b73.jpg)
In the burn- out oven 8 hours with heat stepped up incrementally to about 900 degrees F,
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/plastercansinoven_zps59346c74.jpg)
Next comes the exciting part - centrifugal casting machine and molten metal. I'll try to do a video of this process so that it can be fully appreciated
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/plastermoldincenterfuge_zpsfdd35f8e.jpg)
A perfect shot as demonstrated by the "cast button". This is desirable so that as metal in the mold cools and shrinks it can draw from this.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/plastermoldbutton_zps827deb56.jpg)
The mold is broken to reveal a successful cast. Now I can breathe again.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/plastermoldopen_zpsee653e21.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/3castpieces_zps1bc2f583.jpg)
The pieces are cut from the cast tree
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/piecescutoff_zpsdeb222a9.jpg)
And now the finish work begins.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/piecesfiled_zps4e7e8841.jpg)
The most precise operation may be drilling and tapping these tiny parts.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/piecesdrilledtapped_zps88411ddb.jpg)
** see page 18 for details
-
5th picture down speaks volumes to your creativity in engineering. I could stare at it all day (learning).
-
> creativity in engineering
Ditto...you are going to put that back in the fridge after, right? The beer is getting warm....
Are you casting in brass or bronze?
-
Thanks guys. Necessity really does create invention. When I started this venture some 30 years ago, I was exploring the process and could not begin to afford the equipment that would yield good results. Commercial vacuum pumps still command over $1000, and vibrating tables as much. Casting machines now go for 8k (I picked up my antique for nothing from an old dentist). I still can't afford that equipment. So I rigged up stuff and made it work. And it works well. I'm getting good results -- usually. I've learned the process well. But it is so complex and intensive that it is hardly worth doing, except if one were building a crown for the Queen or another nice little tool for my collection. : ) So to make it all worth doing I mostly cast silver and used to cast gold when It was affordable. But now I have to buy a new fridge for mama and to keep my beer cold. Ralph
-
Casting services are reasonably priced.
They will work to any level you want. You can send in the model and they will take to fully finished, or any stages in between. Centrifugal casters are still common on the shelves of jewelry suppliers.
I have my own equipment similar to yours, except I gave away a vibrator I had (I wish I hadn't now.) The previous owner made teeth for dentists. I'll put a cast iron tool on the whats it tomorrow or wednesday for everyone's guess.
-
In the days before vibrators, I was taught to make a thin solution of plaster and paint the wax with a very soft bristled brush (like camel hair) before creating the mold. It did eliminate air bubbles from forming where they hurt the casting.
-
Hi Chillylulu. I should explore casting services if I ever seriously want to mass produce and sell my models, but, for now, It's just a hobby, and I usually need only one (or very few) copies of any model. I am usually more eager to go on to the next model than to get stuck creating multiples. That may be the difference between a hobby and business (job) work. And casting is where the fun and excitement really is. I'd really rather do that part myself. I have seen centrifugal casting machines on Ebay, but they still aren't giving them away. Have you seen those "new automatic vacuum casting machines" they advertise at jewelry supply stores? Before I could afford one of those, I'd find a casting service or a new hobby. Sometimes I wish that I could cast iron, but I think that is a whole new world for my next life.
Right Branson. I still paint a thin coat of "debubbled" plaster on the wax patterns - then fill the flask and vacuum again. I've tried every trick I can to yield a piece that requires less finishing. I even have "painted" the wax models with "debubbleizer" (a mixture of alcohol and liquid soap) that tends to disallow bubbles to stick to the model.
Ralph
-
The mold produced three good casts. I often cast multiple pieces in one mold ( especially so when it is a commissioned piece) just in case one piece is ruined along the way. And sometimes both pieces turn out ok, and I get to keep a copy. In this case three pieces were cast, and already I've had to cannibalize one to complete the two promised pieces. Here are pics of the first one in sterling silver with a brass adjusting nut and tight grained Bocote handle grips. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/monkeywenchfin001_zps332aa64a.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/monkeywenchfin003_zps16ade58c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/monkeywenchfin005_zps600d1b9a.jpg)
-
Just beautiful!
-
I'm astounded you continue to pull "it" off in whatever form you choose. <hat off>. Thank you again for sharing with us your methods and art. Appreciate you being part of the forum.
-
I have a vacuum pump off of a core drill machine. I have been thinking that it could be rigged up to both de-bubble the investment, and then hook up to apply vacuum when casting. Those vacuum flasks are full of holes, I haven't thought how they get the investment to stay in.
Do you tumble finish, or is it all hand work?
Beautiful tools, btw.
Chilly
-
Thanks again gents. I do tend to pursue the project that I have envisioned with intense concentration and vigor till I figure out how to do it and ultimately have one in hand. This often calls for design of new instruments to facilitate the process.
-
I have tried several vacuum devices - rotary vane, piston compressors, etc and found that an old refrig compressor draws best. But I am always looking to improve. And I just don't understand how those vacuum flasks work - must be new technologies. I do all my work as simplistically as possible and hand finish everything with small files and ever decreasing grit sand parer, but I do buff & polish with a commercial wheel. Ralph
-
Thought I'd post a few pictures of related interest. I think that, ultimately, the casting trees are interesting works of art in their own right. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castingtreesjacks010_zps7083acfa.jpg)
a little closer up
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castingtreesjacks008_zpsd95216f1.jpg)
Somehow, this casting tree resembled something unintended - a "hammer flower"?, and I didn't have the heart to separate them. I may just build handles for them and display them as they are.
This also happened with a set of playing jacks, but I had to separate them because it was a commissioned piece -- a gift for a lady (Jacqulin Jackson) that has everything. A set of solid 14k gold jacks. (for those who can afford it - wish I could have kept more than the pictures). Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castingtreesjacks004_zpsc2db5477.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/castingtreesjacks002_zpsda9dbf40.jpg)
-
I am grateful that Ralph sent me one of the miniature monkey wrenches!
http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=10124.msg64767#msg64767 (http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=10124.msg64767#msg64767)
-
Papaw,
You are most deserving for all the exceptionally professional work that you have done for Tool Talk Forum. This is THE piece that was featured in the above thread build portion custom built with you in mind. Wish that you could have been here to observe the process from start to finish. Actually, in a way you were. Thank you for all that you do.
Ralph
-
HooRay Ralph! I could not agree with you more. Beautiful work. Beautiful gift.
-
Looking good Ralph! This is still one of my favorite stops on the forum. I'll keep watching.
Jim C.
-
Scott,
Thank you for the wonderful bundle of exotic wood pieces that you sent me. WOW!!! Am I the lucky one! These exotic pieces will escalate my interests in building miniature tools and who knows what else. Some of it is foreign - new to me. You've helped me id most of it, but I need help with a couple other pieces - pictured below.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/woodfromScott001_zps3df0781a.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/woodfromScott002_zpsa4b1daaa.jpg)
-
Hey Ralph, I've got some mahogany boards if your in need of some.
They're plained down to 1" thick.
-
I appreciate your offer, HeelSpur. At present, I have plenty of Mahogany. Raincheck? Who knows what the future will need.
Thank you , Ralph
-
Hey Ralph
I am pretty sure one is cherry, but unless the other one is cherry too, I just don't know.
Glad you liked the wood
yours Scott
-
Close enough, Scott. I shuda guessed that. I'm sure you are right. Thanks again. Now to the drawing board. Ralph
-
I rounded up some more tools for a group picture. Ralph
See the video on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARI533ZplhM&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/minaturetoolsphoto_zps8cea701e.jpg)
-
I very much enjoyed the video, Ralph! Of course they're all amazing works of art, but I especially like the pipe cutter and the fact you actually use it.
-
Amazing Art work.. Wow! 250 reply's already, popular post...
-
Thanks, oldtools.
I do appreciate your thoughts. And thoroughly enjoy the interaction and exchange of ideas on this forum. I am gratified that you and others appreciate my work.
Ralph
-
Hi, everybody.
I am a builder of miniature tools, and also collect tools of sorts.
There are many vises in my group - most of them are small,
although also several large blacksmith vises and vises of other sorts which are often used in my other shop (the barn).
My wife says that I should have as many virtues ; )
Pictured below are some of my smaller blacksmith vises. I'm not sure that I know the actual proper name.
But I know what I like.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld4005_zps903ace19.jpg)
For proper scale I get help from my helper.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld4007_zps945ff6c7.jpg)
No, He is not a Rottweiler, although in a certain light he may look like one.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld4007_zps945ff6c7.jpg)
Another scale reference of the smallest at 3 1/2 inches:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith2017_zpsd9f763cb.jpg)
My intent behind all this rhetoric is to announce that I am hoping to build a real miniature version of this type of vise.
I have pondered such a build for quite some time now and have decided to just jump in
and build one 2/3 the size of the smallest one I have. That would make it about 1/8 scale of the full size one in the barn.
I have a Good start. I've wrapped my head around this vise and can see it in three dimensional space.
Next I'll cut and carve the hard wax into the proper form then cast it to build a master pattern
from which will result a rubber mold to produce casting copies. This will be a long process. I'll try to document and post.
I think.? Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith2015_zpsa7571ab2.jpg)
-
Like all of your previous post/projects I look forward to seeing the progress on your vise. I'm sure it will result in a piece to be proud of like all the rest.
-
Thanks for the confidence in me, Les.
If I was sure that I can do this I would have done it long ago.
It's been on my mind for quite some time now.
I think that I have figured it out enough in my head now to start.
The thing is that this project will call into play all the skills and procedures that I know
and some that I'm not so sure about.
First - it will ultimately be a very heavy pour - close to 4 oz - ,
and that increases the danger and chance of failure I figure.
An extreme pour at my scale is 3.0 oz.
But before that, I will have to alloy some sterling silver
then carve an exact replica (master pattern) of the rear jaw and stem at 2/3 scale in wax then cast it in metal.
I'll use that master pattern to produce a rubber mold from which a rear jaw will be derived.
The rubber mold will produce two wax rear jaws, and from one I will remove the clamping apparatus and anvil
leaving an exact copy of the rear jaw with only the long stem to serve as the front jaw.
Then I will form a "casting tree" containing both parts - front and rear. This is why the pour will be so heavy.
An alternate plan would be to cast each piece alone in its own mold - This doubles the work.
If casting the pieces in one mold does not work I'll resort to casting them separately - effectively tripling the work.
Once all that is done it will be a long run of filing, sanding, buffing and polishing -
not to mention some machining, drilling and thread cutting for the screw and tightening rod.
Well, thanks for listening. I think that I've got it now.
Ralph
-
Pictured below are some of my smaller blacksmith vises. I'm not sure that I know the actual proper name.
But I know what I like.
Those are "table vises," and I know that I like them, too! They look so much like miniature leg vises that they're just irresistable. I found the name in With Hammer in Hand, the definitive book on the Domeni workshop at the Winterthur Museum. It was one of the tools issued to the artificer section with light artillery batteries, and with no pictures it made me a little crazy trying to figure out what a table vise was. I have an odd one. Quite useful, but maybe someday I'll find another one at a price I can afford.
Looking forward to your miniature miniature of this vise!
-
Oh. OK. Now I know and can call it by it's proper name. I should know it's name if I'm going to build one. Thanks Branson. Ralph
-
I've got a good start. First an approximation was cut out of a block of hard wax.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith002_zpse22b4f45.jpg)
Then, as Michelangelo once replied when asked how he could sculpt such a fine elephant out of a block of marble, " All that needs to be done is to remove from the block everything that doesn't look like an elephant." I'm no Michelangelo, but I think that I know what a table vise looks like, and removed from the block of wax all the parts that didn't look like one and added flow channels and cosmetic touches.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith004_zps4b6a5154.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith006_zpsde1bdf94.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith009_zpsb3cc5a83.jpg)
Next I will cast this wax pattern employing the lost wax process. That will result in a solid Master Pattern which will be used to build the rubber mold to produce multiple copies. I intend to build only one vise but will produce several soft wax patterns to allow for selection of the the best copy, and in case that something goes wrong along the way, I'll have a fall back option. Ralph
-
I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished piece! I've developed a fondness for table vises -- they look so much like professional tools.
-
Yes, me too. It's progressing. May cast the master pattern today - a little apprehensive. It's a risky procedure and I'm pushing it to cast a 3 oz piece in a centrifuge designed to cast little rings and such at 3/4 oz. If it works, then comes the tedious process of building a rubber mold. Ralph
-
good luck Art, I'm rooting for you.
you are really talented.
Frank
-
Art, am following this, never done casting. If I were to build one, it would be started from bar stock, grind, drill and file away what does not look right.
-
That would be the alternative, John. This is the reason that a casting process is employed. Even with CNC machinery it would be tough to do. Imagine building an engine block out of bar stock. It can be done, but not easily. The casting process isn't easy either but may be less difficult, and, once the patterns are built, it is possible to more easily build multiple exact copies. Early on I did build everything by cut, file and grind, but, as things got more complicated, I had to figure out "new" ways of doing things. So I discovered the ancient arts of casting, which I'm still trying to perfect. Ralph
-
Thanks for your interest and encouragement, guys. My luck is holding out, and progress is apparent.
The master wax pattern was mounted in a flask (a 10 oz soup can).
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith013_zps863a8d15.jpg)
And the investment (plaster) was prepared. This has to be a precise mixture to avoid problems along the way.
While still liquid it was degassed - the air bubbles within were vacuumed out on a vacuum shake table.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith2029_zps9ebad430.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith2022_zps7d8cae42.jpg)
The plaster mold was baked to melt the wax out (lost wax) and to solidify it in preparation to receive molten metal
Then the most exciting and most dangerous part: melting the metal in the crucible mounted on the centrifugal casting machine. This is a spring driven "broken arm" lever that shoots the molten metal into the attached mold.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith2006_zps9381296a.jpg)
-
It was a successful pour. When the mold was broken open I had my doubts because the piece had a thick and heavy crust.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith3002_zps203d4843.jpg)
But it turned out just fine and finished out nicely. This will make a good master pattern.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith3003_zpsb11c4b90.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseBlacksmith3004_zps32cfbbc5.jpg)
Next comes the tedious job of building the rubber mold. I had posted these details in an earlier build and will spare the repetition. I don't like building rubber molds but decided to build one for this project because it might be the best way to get exact copies for the rear and front jaws. The master will be of the rear jaw. Then when the rubber mold yields multiple copies, the anvil and clamping parts will be cut off to yield the front jaw. And the opportunity will exist to build a whole second set should something go wrong in the casting of the final pieces or if I desire to build another vise, unlikely as that would be. I usually don't care to build more than one copy.
Ralph
-
The rubber mold was built as outlined in an earlier presentation at the top of page 10, and it turned out just fine.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldrubber001_zps96869c7b.jpg)
Creating wax pattern copies was more fun than building the mold.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6003_zps7651cf65.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6004_zpsb50bf8ad.jpg)
Softer wax is injected into the mold, allowed to cool, carefully removed and touched up some as needed
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6002_zps192c41c2.jpg)
The same mold produced wax patterns for both the front and rear jaws since they are virtually identical. For the front jaw the anvil and clamp apparatus were cut off.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin020_zpsfb366f3a.jpg)
And now we repeat the plaster mold building process as outlined on page 10 to produce the final versions of both jaws,
-
And the tension mounts waiting for the finished product to appear, looking good so far. As always an interesting and informative post.
-
Thanks, Les. It's coming along step by step, little by little. When I saw how well the master pattern turned out, all my doubts and apprehension were gone. Now while the mold is in the oven, there is time to fashion the nuts and bolts - literally. Three will be needed. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts006_zps04057438.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts001_zpsf3a4b01f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts003_zps118ba1a0.jpg)
Well the nuts are about done. I could have purchased these components commercially; in fact, I do have some on hand - 2-56 threads at 1/2 inch long. But I am after an authentic look like an old vise in the barn. So I've decided to make my own hardware of square head bolts and square nuts of silver since I don't know where such can be found and wanted the total experience.
-
So I've decided to make my own hardware of square head bolts and square nuts of silver
That right there is a testament to your craftsmanship and dedication to this endeavor!
-
Thanks Papaw.
Sometimes I don't know what drives me, but I know what I like, and am gratified that you all appreciate my work without drawing too much attention to my insanity, which must plague me from time to time. Taking the better part of a day to build tiny nuts and bolts might be evidence of that, but, like so many other things that I do, when the day is done and in my hand are the hardware that is needed, I forget the loss of time and feel proud and pleased. This project required so much attention to so many details that it just would not have been proper to accent it with lesser parts. This set will go well with the rest of the parts on the miniature table vise.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts2002_zps8e8b7142.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts008_zpse697e315.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOldnutsampbolts009_zps9e341015.jpg)
-
All day making threaded nuts and bolts, doesn't sound crazy to me, in fact was thinking silver threads, and the old song came along. Silver thread and golden needles,,,, . ahem. Glad the molds have come out so well. Got to be tedious being so tiny.
-
This table vise is becoming just delicious! I can scarcely wait to see the finished product.
-
Thanks, gents. Silver threads I do now have - golden needles?? - maybe some day. But how incredible that you conjured up the song by thinking of it, John. I've heard of that kind of telepathy. If only we could just think of a small table vise and make it appear. I'm doing it the hard way - building it one piece at a time . . . (I waited some few minutes to hear Johnny Cash come on the radio, but nothing doing. I just don't have the touch.) Have made some progress, though. The mold worked out great and yielded a beautiful set of jaws. I didn't document those steps having posted some such similar pictures earlier. Almost there; the tricky parts are done. Ralph
This is the Master, the soft wax pattern and finally one of the jaws for comparison
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6011_zps0082652d.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin020_zpsfb366f3a.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6007_zps9ccb64d3.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6009_zpse33952f6.jpg)
-
Cold and snowy day in Colorado - great day to stoke the shop stove and to tinker indoors. More progress on the miniature vise. Today I fabricated the spindle and bar of brass and the clamp and bar. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefinhandles006_zps4babfe58.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefinhandles3001_zps5d013b02.jpg)
-
I think I may be falling in love...
-
The jaw bar looks like the balls on the ends are machined. The clamp bar looks like a casting. Do you solder one ball on or is it somehow cast in place?
-
You are doing great following proportion and shape. This is my oldest post vise. No name, but one can see the hammer marks. Plus the threaded barrel is bronze. The jaw is six inches wide.
-
Well, Branson, it did turn out lovely. It weighed in at a finished weight of 2.6 oz. I think it's a keeper.
Yes, John. The balls at the ends of the spindle bar and those on the clamp bar are all machined freehand on the outer surface on a cordless drill and with files since I lack the proper machinery to do it otherwise. And they all, along with both ends of both rods are threaded 4-40, and the balls are screwed on. Same with the spindle and its threaded rod, but this union was also soldered to prevent the spindle from unscrewing when turned counter clock.
Thank you all for following the build process and for encouraging me along the way. I will post a few preliminary pictures today as I continue to document the process and hope to have more and a video up soon, although I am not as handy with a camera as with a saw and file. Ralph
For comparison - the final and the original after which it was patterned.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin4011_zpsa4ddabf0.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin4010_zps4c59e358.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin4003_zps4d0317b7.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin016_zps1b10b51f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin015_zps41d18c22.jpg)
and just for fun :)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin012_zps4855b953.jpg)
-
All right, John K. Yes that's the old master post vise as I remember seeing in the old blacksmith shop when I was a kid. The table vise follows this general shape but is much smaller and has a clamping apparatus to mount it on a table. Thanks for posting that picture. It brings authentication to this build string. Ralph
-
The action video is up on YouTube. Please view it and let me know what you think. Ralph
http://youtu.be/0CTModW5hdg
-
Art, another great job, both the vise and the video. What is your next challenge?
-
Nice job. You are an artist. Do you ever get up to Denver?
Chilly
-
Art, another great job, both the vise and the video. What is your next challenge?
Well, how about a slightly different table vise? There are problems with this one on eBay this morning, but look at the jaws! Like the even older style of jaws for a leg vise. And while probably cobbled, the bracket for attaching is that of a leg vise rather than a table vise.
-
Thanks again, Les. Don't know about my next project. Nothing has appealed to me yet. This miniature vise called for so many challenging operations that next I need to do something which yields more timely gratification, or I need a change of pace.
Hi Chilly, and Thanks. Denver? Some of my favorite hang outs are in LoDo, but haven't been lately. I like the Museum of Natural History, and sometimes just zip by headed for Black Hawk.
Thanks Branson. I don't know that I will ever build another vise, but will try to snatch up every small table vise I can. Then again, vises keep calling my name. Right now I am in transition.
-
> more timely gratification
Blacksmith's vise certainly needs an anvil to go with it, and a few things to stick in the anvil......
-
Blacksmith's vise certainly needs an anvil to go with it, and a few things to stick in the anvil......
I second that!!
-
Well gentlemen, it's interesting that you mention that ( Blacksmith's vise certainly needs an anvil to go with it, ). I actually built the miniature vise to complement my other vises and anvils. I have been collecting anvils since I was a kid spending much time in the village blacksmith shop. I always wanted to be a blacksmith, but the world changed and took me in another direction. Still, my college major was Industrial Arts where I learned much more about metallurgy and ultimately taught metalwork in public school where my students learned to sand cast aluminum anvils and other things. My hobby, in which I learned modern and ancient casting procedures, resulted from my passion for metal work, and, for many years, I cast and fabricated precious metals as fine jewelry but returned to the industrial side of the crafts and have been building tools of all sorts with only an occasional jewelry gift for wife and mother.
Pictured here are some of my anvil collection - the smaller ones. I have several 100 + pounders in the barn. Note the split half wood pattern and the anvil that I cast from that pattern at the front along with others that I cast years ago perched on top of the black one in the center of the picture.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Anvilcollection019_zps21c7f83f.jpg)
As for " . . . and a few things to stick on the anvil . . . " , you are right on. I have often thought about building a complete blacksmith's shop in miniature and may just follow that thought. It would be fun to build an assortment of miniature blacksmith tongs and even a complete diorama, though I'm not sure about a forge. Thanks for your thoughts and encouragement.
Ralph
-
The forge would be a challenge, but from what you've shown us so far, you would be the guy to do it.
-
Thank you, Papaw. Sometimes I think that it is your (all yall's) encouragement and expectations of me that enable me to do things I'd never dreamed that I could do, and I appreciate it very much. It is very reminiscent of my college days when my professors, all of them richly experienced and professionally able, insisted that I could meet their high expectations and then made it happen because I dared not disappoint them. And, much to my surprise, I discovered that there were no limits to what I could do in the crafts. It set a pattern and manner of operation that have served me well throughout and yet today. Thanks again to all of you for encouraging me and for appreciating my work. Ralph
-
Hey Ralph,
I love your collection of small anvils. Do you use them often when you're making your miniature tools? Which one is your favorite?
Jim C.
-
I have but two tiny anvils, and never seen that large a collection, you have been busy. For a real challenge, to build a hand crank wall mount drill press, like a Champion, in miniature, would be incredible. A forge, not so much, but a forge blower that would fit through a mans ring? Again a challenge. How about a breast drill, and for a challenge, a two speed! You had some exceptional teachers and mentors.
-
Well Jim C., I do use some of the anvils in my hobby works. Some are just for show, though they are real. A few resulted from my college studies in metallurgy, and some just followed me home from here and there. The project typically determines which one I call on for help. The unpainted ones are often used, especially the "T" shaped jeweler's anvil in the center of the picture. I've also built some tiny silver ones as earrings for wifey.
Hi John k. Yeah, I've been busy collecting anvils since childhood when the village blacksmith gave me one. You know John, I have thought about building a miniature Champion like drill press like ones (2) I have proudly poised in the barn or at least a crank hand drill. And I've spent countless hours trying to hand cut pinion and wheel gears or some miter gears (don't have proper equipment to machine cut gears). I've even purchased some ready made model miter gears and just haven't been able to make it work. I do keep it in mind because I actually need a small egg beater type hand drill to use in building my miniatures. I'll keep thinking about it. Any ideas, anyone?
Ralph
-
When the term miter gears was used, I started thinking about some of the salesman samples that I have seen. Like a 1/24 scale horse drawn mower, with working gear box that in turn pushed the sickle bar. You probably have a one of the small hobby lathes, not sure if anyone builds a small hobby mill. May have to look through the model railroad magazines I have. I also have two of the wall mount drills, and disassembled one for cleaning. For 1890s construction it has pretty complex castings.
-
Like a 1/24 scale horse drawn mower, with working gear box that in turn pushed the sickle bar. You probably have a one of the small hobby lathes, not sure if anyone builds a small hobby mill. May have to look through the model railroad magazines I have.
[/quote]
Hi again, John K. I am familiar with the mower you refer to - bid on one once and didn't even come close, but it is still on my mind as a real miniature beauty. I have found tiny miter gears at the hobby train shop and still have had trouble making the arrangement. Building a tiny chuck has also presented problems. I have put the project aside several times but still hope to get one done sometime. I do have a mini lathe and drill press but no mill and should be able to do it - just haven't yet. Now a drill press like the old Champions might be beyond me, but I have looked at them very closely. They seem so incredibly advanced for their vintage. Thanks for your interest and support. Ralph
-
Axes collection. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Axesminiature002_zpsa0a36289.jpg)
A comparative scale. Cast in silver with carved Hickory handles.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Axesminiature004_zps91937c45.jpg)
-
A while back I picked up a watchmakers lathe an accessories at the flea market. Bought it cheap knowing nothing about it but thought it was cool. After getting home and learning it was made by Boley and they can bring a pretty penny I posted it on craigslist. A month later and it sold for 450$
Of all the tools ive came across and sold its toward the top of the list.
If you have a chance check them out. I know there not cheap but maybe youle get lucky. Even another brand of watchmakers lathe would be a good tool to have for your use.
As I said before great work, I love watching this thread.
-
Hey Ralph
The vise is outstanding!! Totally love it.
You already know your axes kill me. heheeh
As far as eggbeaters for human hands to use, there are some pretty small ones around.
Not miniatures, but as small as the human hand can reliably and accurately operate. They made them for jewelers of course.
I have a picture of mine somewhere but can't find it, and all my camera batteries are dead.
yours Scott
-
Thanks for the word on the watch maker's lathe, Nolatoolguy. I would like to have one and would put it to good news. And I have bid on some but never came close. I will keep watching.
Hey, Scott. I am gratified that you like the miniature vise. Simple as it looks, it was a tough build having to build plaster molds and cast metal twice and tediously build a rubber mold to yield parts that ensure that the front and rear jaws were identical, not to mention building all the minor components + nuts and bolts and lots of finishing work. But now that it's done, the pains of building it are but a memory, and I am glad to add it to my collection. The rubber mold could produce major components to build another vise, but after this one, I'm just not up to it. I think that, though I had initially thought otherwise, it will remain one of a kind. I'm glad that you like the axes too.
You know, I do have a small jewelers egg beater hand drill (there must be a proper name for it) about 4 1/2 inches, but I've often thought about an even smaller one - say 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Guess I need to study it more. I would love to see yours.
Ralph
-
Hi, John K from Nebraska. I attempted to reply to you on the message section, and I am not sure that my message got through.
I appreciate your message about the auction listings and particularly like the salesman's samples and the hand planes. Just when I was looking for a new project here are hundreds to consider.
Thanks again,
Ralph
-
Ralph,
There's been one of those tiny lathes in a shop here in Denver for 8 or 9 months. I've been tempted -lots of extra accessories. If you are serious about one, let me know. Otherwise I might buy it myself. If I did, I might loan it to you, just to see what you came up with. It seems not too many tools were lathe turned -but I'm probably not looking at things from the right angle. (I only claim 85% accuracy.)
Chilly
-
Ralph, I have seen this tool artist's wares listed on eBay off and on over the years. I just spotted a goat head hammer he had listed. The link below is for items he currently has listed on eBay. Maybe this will give you some new ideas of things to try. Just trying to tickle your creative thoughts. Les
Forgot the link!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/heinztools/m.html?item=201049757837&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecf7fd88d&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
-
Hey Ralph
This is John Heinz. He is very shy.
From time to time you see some spectacular work coming from the Pacific Northwest.
You will hear the name Chris Laarman.
Chris is definitely involved with the merry pranksters,
but the little man behind the curtain..... is John
http://heinztools.com/index.html (http://heinztools.com/index.html)
yours Scott
-
WOW, Scott.
Much of that stuff is right down my alley.
I can certainly appreciate the artistry and marvel at these creations.
Just looking at them is gratifying. Thanks for sharing all of this.
It does give me ideas, but much of it is surely beyond my skill level.
Of course I'll look again - and again and maybe kindle some advanced creativity.
In the meantime, I'm not the maestro but the appreciator of this great Art.
Ralph
-
Hey Ralph
I am just curious...What go you interested in miniatures, and what keeps you doing doing it?
-
Yo Ralph
I just heard interesting news last night.
Do you know this guy, Bill Roberson?
http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Robertson.htm (http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Robertson.htm)
He makes miniatures too, but unlike the rest of us who never had 3 nickels in a pile all at once,
this guy got around $20,000 for his draftsman kit and even more for the toolbox!!
This was enough to get my attention.
Times are fixin to change??
Actual respect in the marketplace for miniatures for the first time, like, ever????
yours Scott
-
Hi, guys.
I don't really know what got me interested in building miniatures but have always found the strange and unusual captivating and yet somewhat familiar and even kin. I was that strange kid in town who hung around the carpentry and blacksmith's shops where they allowed me to emulate the masters as I created tiny horseshoes, furniture, etc. And, of course, creating tiny tools became a trade mark that has remained with me and became my major interest after retirement from a conventional career. I haven't created anything lately because I've been distracted by real scale life remodeling my wife's house. I live here too, but thought that the house was good enough as it was, and now I've got things torn down and some back up and some I just can't figure. Damn I hate the full scale world.
Well Scott, some might be professional scale builders who do it for a living, and I can appreciate and maybe even envy that, but I am an amateur in the truest sense of the word. I do it just for the Love of doing it. In fact, the few times that I have built commissioned pieces, I have had no fun and did not enjoy the pressures of life as an artist for hire. What makes it even less likely that I'll earn any money at this is that I am a serious collector too and have difficulty parting with my creations except those which were built as a gift with a special person in mind. I suppose that enough $$ might change my attitude, but then I would have only $$.
Ralph
-
I suppose that enough $$ might change my attitude, but then I would have only $$.
That is the truth!
-
I appreciate the Amen, Papaw.
And by the way, Les, thanks for giving me some new ideas. It does tickle my creative thoughts, but , oh my goodness, those creators are skilled beyond me.
Ralph
-
I posted the whole story about these wrenches in the Wrench Forum under "Wrench ID Started by Papaw" and thought I'd cross reference it here. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench2009_zps34e53239.jpg)
-
Art, you been busy! First time I saw a twist handle monkey, really liked it. What is the finish on the black one? Got to ask, ever build a full size wrench? Or maybe half size?
-
Hi, John. Yeah, busy now and then. Here I attempted to replicate a miniature 1/4 scale version of a wrench Papaw posted. The black finish is a product called "Silver-Black". It is an acid used by jewelers to create a dark patina on some gold or silver jewelry. I have not yet had the pleasure to build much bigger than 1/4 scale. Miniaturization adds a new dimension and multiplies the difficulty as margin of error gets smaller and tolerances tighter. It's just that everywhere I go, I like to take a pocket full of miniature tools, and folks who know me kinda expect to see new ones each time, so it keeps me busy. Maybe some day I will tool up and scale up some. Ralph
-
Hey Ralph,
Glad to see that you're back out in the shop! That's a great looking wrench. Well done sir!
Jim C.
-
Thanks, Jim. I'm still knee deep in the remodeling project but took a little break from that for a little play in my favorite hobby. Now back to work and more play later. Ralph
-
Hi Ralph,
I just read your comment about bringing a pocket full of wrenches to show the hungry
guys, it brought back some great memories of when we used to go to Dick Cranes auctions in Hillsboro, New Hampshire, there was this older fellow, Fred Courser that
was a local, he would go to all Cranes auction looking for hammers, some of his
collection were shown in the hammer book. he always wore this levi jacket and as
soon as he would show up for the auction, a good size croud would gather around
him waiting for him to take his newest hammer out of his pocket. sometimes more
than one. 1 that I will never forget was the goatshead hammer.
bless his soul, he is no longer with us.
thanks for the reminder, Frank
-
I have always carried some small wrench or screwdriver in my watch pocket and some thing else in another. Always ready to show people the kind of things I collect.
NOW- I carry Ralph's little Sterling Silver Monkey Wrench in my watch pocket. I found a perfect carrier for it. Package of box cutter blades minus the blades.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/papao55/Assorted%20wrenches/ArtAdjustable1_zpsaf6ef1de.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/papao55/media/Assorted%20wrenches/ArtAdjustable1_zpsaf6ef1de.jpg.html)
-
Thank you, Frank, for sharing that nice account about the older fellow, Fred Courser. I'm sure that he would be proud to be remembered like that.
I just love it when people ask me what is in my pocket, and I like the reaction that it often evokes.
My early days involved the exploration of ancient jewelry making procedures, and, combined with my fascination with tools,
it evolved into the development of my unique line of jewelry. I call it "Pocket Jewelry for the Well Dressed Crafter"(c) -
a little wood shaving plane for the well dressed carpenter, a miniature pipe wrench for a plumber, a monkey wrench for the handyman, etc.
Of course I've also built some fine jewelry for all occasions for my wife and mother and many others, and they always expect something nice in a little gift box.
So I've kept busy having set that standard but found time between occasions to add to my collection of miniature tools,
and am still searching for another unique tool that calls my name. Ralph
-
Papaw,
Just now when I scrolled down to your latest post, first visible to me was that nice little wrench in that precious little box that appealed to me.
Then I read your post and realized that what I was looking at is familiar and the essence of what I had just conveyed to Frank - Pocket Jewelery for the Well Dressed.
I am flattered and gratified and very proud that you would hold my work in such regard.
Thank you. I am happy for you and proud of you. Ralph
-
> I am flattered and gratified and very proud that you would hold my work in such regard.
Ralph, I think all of us hold your work with such regard. You have consistently made some of the most beautiful of miniatures, exquisitely made.
-
Branson, Thanks for saying that. It is gratifying and encouraging. Ralph
-
There had been some discussion about the adjuster nut being on the one side or the other, so I just had to build another wrench with the threaded leg and nut on the other side to compare the advantages / differences.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench5001_zps190aaac8.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench6003_zps50dd7644.jpg)
I realized that if the threaded leg is on the side of the flat jaws (vs the "claw" jaws), it is more likely to be damaged by repeated contact with nuts that it works. Whereas if the threaded leg is on the claw side it is less likely to be in contact with and damaged by nuts that it works. And this side is capable of working only smaller nuts.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench4009_zpsa8d974ea.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench4008_zpsd5a6527d.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench4005_zpse19f8a3c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ACMEWrench4003_zps8918e753.jpg)
I was also more able to appreciate the offset from the center line of the claw side in that it allows a closer grip of the entire nut without scraping the knurles of the threaded nut or the user's knuckles on a flat surface . I now believe that the folks who built these wrenches researched & developed these tools thoroughly for optimum use and ware. I didn't invent anything; I just realized some things that I'm sure most of you all already knew. Ralph
-
the folks who built these wrenches researched & developed these tools thoroughly for optimum use and wear.
This is one of the many reasons we all love the old wrenches so much!
BUT- Realize that many wrench designs didn't work out for the very reason that the designer didn't develop the design properly.
-
I got a nice surprise in the mail. Ralph sent me a miniature PAPAWS wrench!
Look here---> http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=10992.0 (http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=10992.0)
-
Now that is neat! I am in awe.
-
Thank you all. Your interests are encouraging and motivational. Ralph
-
Realizing that some miniature tool builders prefer the 1/3 scale, I was motivated to try it. To change my 1/4 scale mindset I fashioned a wood 1/3 scale model to develop a feel for the new (to me) scale.
First the pieces are prepared - shaved and cut to size. In the case of building miniature tools, typically other miniature tools are best suited for the job.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench002_zps0969ae21.jpg)
then carefully measured, marked, cut to size and drilled as needed
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench004_zps28ba79e9.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench005_zps8d095c6a.jpg)
Some prototype components are fashioned of brass,
but in the final version a silver wire will be carefully measured, twisted and threaded.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench007_zps56179df2.jpg)
Then all the parts are fitted together to yield a sample of size, form, shape and feel (eye appeal). The background graph paper is 1/4 inch squares.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench010_zpsf5765a37.jpg)
A comparative scale:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench014_zpsd62a6c7b.jpg)
Well the prototype looks and feels ok, but interestingly enough, it does have a different "feel" for me, and I'm just not sure that I like 1/3 scale as much as I do the 1/4 scale that I'm accustomed to. I'll probably just have to gear up and build a 1/3 scale wrench to sincerely appreciate the difference. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench2001_zpsbe7b2b03.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench2002_zps8419f705.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WoodWrench2006_zps71d294a3.jpg)
-
Go for it!!
We have no doubt that you can master the 1/3 scale.
-
Yes, thanks. I am sure that I can do it - that is build a 1/3 scale wrench. The thing is that:
1) I'm not sure that I find it as visually and aesthetically appealing as 1/4 scale, though that may just be due to my lack of exposure.
2) The cost of working in 1/3 scale is actually 2/3 again more expensive (1.66 as much), and that wouldn't be a big deal except if done in precious metals.
But even then, miniatures command relatively small materials expense (except in gold), and that's another reason that building small appeals to me.
3) The rest of my collection is in 1/4 scale, but I know that wrenches come in a variety of sizes, so that should be no reason not to build in 1/3 scale.
4) But thus far, I find that building larger is considerably less difficult. The tolerances are not as tight, and every operation is more forgiving.
So I'll carry on. Ralph
-
I noticed that you made your mock up with the thread on the wrench side?
Chilly
-
HI Chilly. Yes, and I'm still not sure how I'll make the final. Mostly I've seem these wrenches with the thread on the nut side and rarely the other way around - except for one that
Papaw posted a couple weeks ago. In my reply # 319 above I compared the two ways and still lean the other way - with the threads away from the nut side, but it seems easier to manipulate the other way (threads on the nut side). Which way do you think would be better for a miniature that won't see much work? Ralph
-
Ralph, I may be a little off the wall on this subject, but, why not build 1 of each, then
put them up to auction, and we can all watch to see which one commands the highest
return ?
Sincerely, Frank
-
hehe...
Off the wall is threading both sides and putting on 2 nuts and
seeing how long it takes someone to figure out how to work it ;P
(I see the forum upgrade is ongoing, very weird things are happening ;)
Very impressed that you were able to bend the 2 pieces together evenly , sounds silly I suppose, until you try to do it ;P
-
Hi, Frank. Ya know, I did build one of each (at 1/4 scale) as posted in reply 319 above for a visual comparison, and the "feel" is pretty much the same, as if one could really tell with tiny tools - ha ha. And I probably will build one of each in 1/3 scale just to have both kinds, but I'm afraid that an auction venture would only demonstrate that no one will value either much at all.
Really off the wall, Rusty, would be to put right hand threads on one leg and nut , and left hand threads on the other then see what would happen. Thanks for appreciating the difficulty of conducting some operations. At the miniature scale, it is all challenging. That is a primary reason I appreciate this hobby. But in all honesty, I often have to make some parts several times to get it right, so virtually every item that I post has been built several times to yield a worthy one.
Ralph
-
Ralph - combine your idea with Rusty's - thread two, one left hand and one right, thst would be a trick
Chilly
-
Hey, Chilly. That would make the wrench tighten AND loosen at the same time. Does that also mean that the jaws would open and close at the same time, or would we have to turn the knurled nut in the other direction to achieve that?? We may be on to something here. Ralph
-
You have to turn the nut in both directions at the same time or it won't work.
-
No, one nut lefty and one righty at the same time, or put a rope between them and pull one way or the other. Even better, make one fine left and the other course right. Then you would have to turn opposite and at different rates at the same time.
It would be another one of those strange archealogical finds in 50 yrs.
Chilly
-
Or I'd still be working on it in 50 years trying to make it turn right. I mean turn left to work right, or is it the other way around? Ralph
-
Any way, after building the wood prototype just to check the eye appeal, I proceeded to build a real metal wrench. Ralph
Parts were carefully measured and cut from square stock.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4005_zps59b85d12.jpg)
Arranged:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4006_zps3dc83ec5.jpg)
And you know the rest of the story.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4008_zps939e0195.jpg)
A comparative scale with the 1/3 scale model along side the 1/4 scale model and the wood prototype:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4009_zps1e410772.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4013_zps13e11da9.jpg)
I'm just not sure which one catches my fancy but think that I'm still leaning toward the original 1/4 scale
-
Hi Art, I really like that 1/3 wrench, what is the length of the 1/4 scale wrench and
what is the length of the 1/3 scale wrench ?
did you make that in one day ??
I admire your work, Frank
-
Hi Frank. And thanks again for your kind words. I based these wrenches on an actual 8 inch wrench and aimed to achieve 1/3 and 1/4 scale, so the larger one ended up being about 2 3/4 inches weighing .84 oz and the smaller one is about 2 inches weighing .40 oz. They are both sterling silver with a brass nut.
I took pictures along the way to post a series at completion, but worked on the 1/3 scale for three days - on and off as I get bench time for a total typically of about 15 hours. That is if all goes right, but usually something goes wrong - easily at this scale (the holes don't line up or the threads get crossed, etc.), and the part must be made over - sometimes several times consuming more time, of which I have plenty, but worse yet more material. And when working with precious metals, that's the part that hurts. These wrenches were fabricated from "bar stock", and did not require wax modeling, mold making, smelting and casting etc. as with other models multiplying the time. They all require some filing, sanding, buffing and polishing.
Ralph
The simple looking monkey wrench started out as an assortment of carved wax components
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/bluepatternpieces3_zps83cd5bc3.jpg)
from which resulted a master pattern and rubber mold yielding casting wax patterns.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Monkeywrenchmoldamppattern2002_zps71bd84d1.jpg)
The miniature vise required similar complex procedures.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/ViseOld6011_zps0082652d.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Visefin4003_zps4d0317b7.jpg)
Some of these such models can require 100+ hours but can yield multiple raw copies thereafter.
Some more complex miniature models are more like machines requiring creation of multiple articulating components and much more time, concentration and patience.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114010_zps8e12c4cc.jpg)
-
All gorgeous (no surprise!), but I have a special fondness for the table vise. Great little tool.
-
Thanks Branson. The miniature table vise is one of my favorites. I have a small collection of such table vices and like them plenty, so I decided to build a miniature model and document the procedures required to build one. The lengthy pictorial and video are posted further up this string. It was quite an exercise with many and complicated operations which tested me thoroughly. I sure am glad to have it my collection. Ralph
-
And then there were Two.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrenchtwo009_zpsc71e1a97.jpg)
And now I need to amend my earlier estimate of how long it takes / took to create a miniature monkey wrench. As most of you know, the second time one does something it usually takes less time having the benefit of the experience gained by doing it the first time. I rarely build two of anything, so my awareness was limited by that. I also estimated in error the cost of scaling up from 1/4 to 1/3 scale having stated that the difference in weight would be X 1.66, and it turned out to be X 2 the original weight while construction time was cut in half, since by discovering pitfalls to avoid and helpful sequential fabrication procedures to follow such as "drill first then cut vs cut first then have great difficulty holding tiny parts to drill accurately" things came together more quickly and more accurately. I'm sure that everybody already knew all that, but I just now realized it. I now might wonder what would be the case if I were to build a third. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3Wrench1-4black003_zpsfeeaecf8.jpg)
-
Sometimes I catch a theme and just get carried away. It is usually a good trip. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3WrenchtwoRing001_zps27f6223c.jpg)
A comparative scale:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/1-3WrenchtwoRingpic003a_zps30bbbf52.jpg)
-
You have been busy!
-
I knew they were small then I saw the penny! That is a bunch of work, and something awful nice to show for it. I got to ask, what kind of lighted magnifier do you use?
-
Thanks John. I appreciate your thoughts. Any more I have to keep quite an assortment of magnifiers including reading glasses, jeweler's loupe, magnifying glass lamp and an assortment of lighting devices. And I'm always looking for better ones. Isn't that the way it goes? I might have to start building full scale stuff soon. Ralph
-
thanks for the update to the question by John K. I was thinking along the same line.
I have started keeping a magnifying glass in most rooms, at least two in the garage.
I have one of the older shop lighted magnifyer with the cast iron base, it seems like
everytime I check one of my wrenches, that light is turned on.
Frank
-
I have been pondering the idea to build a miniature model of an old timey car / wagon jack and have looked for a full scale model or suitable pictures for quite some time but have not yet found one like the one I remember from days gone by. As I remember, it did ratchet up mechanically, and a small click lever held it up while the handle was lowered to ratchet up another stroke. It worked similarly in the lowering mode. But I have been unable to visualize the the relative components and mechanical interaction of that jack and decided to build a model of one that I could visualize and whose picture I found on the net.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Jackmini008_zps5c94b054.jpg)
I did not photo document the build process since its design is very straight forward as evidenced by the finished model. And yet its operation is quite sophisticated in that the effort and resistance arms are configured on different planes and anchored on an elbowed fulcrum point allowing it to lock-over at the completion of the stroke. I didn't invent this mechanical marvel - only learned to appreciate it more as I attempted to create a miniature version.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Jackmini016_zps2dd18301.jpg)
Since this model was built entirely from bar stock (brass), and no cast parts were used, it is noteworthy that it required some complicated and delicate silver soldering operations. On various parts, several soldering operations were performed in sequence employing different solder hardness under carefully regulated temperatures so that one soldering operation would not cause prior joints to overheat and fall apart. Several times I messed up and had to start over.
This was a challenging project that helped me better appreciate mechanical relationships and learn torch temperature control.
Comparative scale:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Jackmini018_zps2f1a6846.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Jackmini003_zps73afdd2c.jpg)
-
Dang, you needed a wagon jack photo? Most people don't realize the early ones were wood, only do an inch lift, but with zero suspension and solid tire, it was enough. A brass jack, so like seeing things of brass.
-
It does look really kewl in brass tho :)
-
Holy cow, that is awesome.
-
Another Art Rafael creation!
-
Art Rafael, you did it again, just when I thought that I had seen everything. (I keep going back
to your other postings) you come up with another home run. I kept studying the 1st picture of the jack, but when I got to the picture of it in your hand, it put a smile on my face, thank you.
did you do the castings like on your wrench & vise projects ?
thanks for sharing, have a good day, Frank
-
No casting on that one, he said. Silver solder.
Since this model was built entirely from bar stock (brass), and no cast parts were used, it is noteworthy that it required some complicated and delicate silver soldering operations. On various parts, several soldering operations were performed in sequence employing different solder hardness under carefully regulated temperatures so that one soldering operation would not cause prior joints to overheat and fall apart. Several times I messed up and had to start over.
-
Thanks, Gents.
You are right, John. One has to be of a certain vintage or culture to know what a wagon jack is and that earlier ones were primarily made of wood. And though they were simplistic in appearance, they employed some complex physics - pioneer ingenuity. I had seen an iron model and just had to fabricate a miniature.
Thanks again Frank. Your endorsement by the smile on your face and your kind words is gratifying and flattering. After fabricating this model by cutting, filing, drilling, etc and by posing, arranging and "welding" that is - brazing called silver soldering the many small parts, I've come to the conclusion that it may have been easier to build wax models, which is much easier to cut and form, and then cast the parts. But the joy of doing it either way and the lessons learned were great.
Thanks rusty, heelspur and Papaw for appreciating my work and for being always so encouraging. I am working on a short video to demonstrate how these jacks operate and hope to post it soon.
Ralph
-
Whew! I QUIETLY went through this thread and I have nothing but admiration for someone who'd even begin such a master-work. I've never seen anything like your work, Ralph. Thank you for sharing it with us!
-
Thank you, bear_man. Sometimes I do think that some kind of insanity prevails, and other times - I'm sure it does. But I've been this way since I was a kid, so I just roll with it. Actually, when I post a finished piece like this jack it represents countless hours of visualizing, planning and execution and rethinking and execution and execution and execution before buffing and polishing if I don't have to start over, and sometimes an acceptable final product results. Ralph
-
Art, I think I'm in love! That jack is absolutely wonderful!
I think, too, that I might have some measured drawings of another jack you might find interesting. It's the jack issued by the Ordnance Department during the Civil War. It's a screw jack, and IIRC, made mostly of bronze. I've never seen one in person, but if you made one, I could make the picture bigger and tell myself I have. I'll dig around for the drawings.
-
Very nice. Did you color the solder joins?
Chilly
-
Thanks, Branson. I remember how you were able to appreciate the silver table vise and other pieces - and now the brass jack. Thanks again.
I would appreciate it if you were to post pictures of that old jack. I'm still looking for just the right one and have seen some screw type jacks, but haven't light on any mostly because I don't know how to cut gears and don't seen to have proper equipment to do so. So, I'd also appreciate instruction / lessons / advise on how to build gears. I'm also still looking for one that I remember from the olden days. As I remember, it did ratchet up mechanically, and a small click lever held it up while the handle was lowered to ratchet up another stroke on a rack type (vs gear) apparatus / component. It worked similarly in the lowering mode. I'd appreciate all the help I can get.
Thanks, Chilly. How are things in Mile High? No, I didn't color the solder joints. When I solder gold items, I use gold solder (very expensive), but when I solder brass (or silver) I use silver solder which assumes / absorbs the color of the primary metal - yellow brass - just like pure gold when alloyed with small amounts of silver to reduce its kt retains the color of gold. However, when gold is alloyed with greater quantities of silver as in 10kt (40%gold and 60% silver) it all assumes the color of the major metal (silver), thus "white gold". 10kt yellow gold also includes quantities of copper to retain its yellow color. And we have learned to alloy various colors of gold - blue, pink, etc by mixing proportions of different alloy metals to produce the color and kt desired. Sorry, such a winded response to a simple (though complicated) question. Ralph
-
Ralph,
Denvers great, I need to go down to to your neck of the woods later this week. Auction items (old tools, tool box, boxes) to pick up.
I understand the alloys and coloring somewhat, I work in precious metals too. I am a fabricator more than a caster, so I really appreciate your work on this one. I get my silver at auction. I usually can get it for less than $0.50 per gram which works out to $16.00 to $17.00 per oz troy. More than I paid for formed sheet / wire 5 8ish yrs ago. If you count the jewelry Mrs. Chilly high grades, my cost is more!
I had heard of a technique using spent (very blue) pickle. They wrapped a toothpick end tight in steel wool, dipped it in the pickle, and the copper precipitated from the pickle onto solder when the loaded steel wool was rubbed on the join. It basically plated the join copper color. Thats why I asked if you had colored it. I wanted to learn how.
I'm going to try my hand at making some miniatures, following your lead. I need to refinish a lot of tools and complete my drawbench first. Your work is inspiring and creative. Keep it up.
Regards,
Chilly
-
Hey Chilly, I didn't mean to patronize - didn't realize that you are so well versed in precious metals - better, it seems, than I am, since I didn't grasp the gravity of your question. Coloring as you present it is not something that is familiar to me. I want to learn electroplating but just haven't been able to take that leap. I also need to learn engraving, but don't know if I have enough lifetimes to do all that having spent several teaching myself pattern making, model making, casting, fabricating, brazing, silver soldering, etc. etc. I'm sure that you know what I mean.
Anyway, you may consider stopping by when you are near if you have time, but don't expect to see much. I run a very spartan operation and most of what I do is on makeshift equipment and on guts alone. Never could afford all that expensive equipment, but I get some done by virtue of stuff I've gleaned throughout. Ralph
-
Art, when you mention ratchet jack, are you referring to the old style automobile bumper jack ?
they also made a short axle jack that had a ratchet action that turned a screw type lift shaft.
I have another eye doctor appointment coming up, after I get thru with that, I will scout around
my garage to see if I can locate a few jacks, yes, even wagon jacks. ( hopefully they are not buried)
Frank
-
Hi, All. The action video of the miniature wagon lever jack is completed and posted on Youtube:
http://youtu.be/EQiS_-uEK3U
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Jackmini003_zps73afdd2c.jpg)
-
Hi, Frank. I do hope and expect that all will go well with your eye procedure. Then maybe you can help me find that mechanical lever jack that I'm looking for. I'm don't mean an old car bumper jack but more of a small railroad or house lifting jack that can lift more than the single throw that the wagon jack does. It must be a smaller axle jack that I am thinking about but not one with ratcheting gears just one that works very much like the wagon jack but can lift for several strokes. I'd appreciate pictures from anyone on this matter or I'll have to seriously sit down and reinvent the mechanism. Thanks in advance. Ralph
-
Here's one from 1850 that ratchets....
-
Thanks, Rusty. That is close to what I had in mind. Interesting configuration with four finger-like components at the jack end of the lever. I can see how the parts interact and find it interesting that it can lift at both the top and bottom ends of the post. I'll study it some as I continue to look for examples. Ralph
-
Art, you can look at this eBay listing for a ratcheting design similar to your miniature.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Iron-Wagon-Car-Jack-Pat-1914-Farm-Tractor-Truck-Tools-/151336491756?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233c5b9aec
-
Here is my RR jack. First I'll say its heavy, stands 24 inches tall. Uses a pipe/bar up to 2.5 inches as a handle. Has lifted many a tractor axle, upwards of 3 ton. Will also jack up buildings. Quite a mechanism inside, upper and lower pawls. Can't take the center post out, goes out the bottom, but the top square lift plate is peened on. The name on it is DUFF MFG. Allegheny PA. Barretts, Pat. 1884 and 1886. Is also marked No.1, cast into the upper part. Now to bore you all I'll tell how it came to be mine. In the 20s, my father was growing up on a farm in Illinois that the Illinois Central RR ran through. There was a big derailment, and my fathers family went out to watch the big stuff put the train back upright. Later, my father and his little brother spotted two RR jacks left in the weeds at the edge of their field. They carried them on the stones of the track shoulder. Nearly a year later they were still laying there. Figuring the RR had no need for them anymore, they went down with team and wagon, brought the jacks home and put them in the barn. The 30s came and went, as well as WWII. In 1948 my parents were visiting Illinois, and brought this jack back to Nebraska. As long as I can recall, my dad used it to lift the tractors, to slide the wheels in or out. I have looked it over closely, and has no RR stampings, none, where other railroad tools are well marked. So, Art you wanted a pic of a heavy wagon or RR jack, here it is.
-
Thanks Les. That is a beauty, I'll study it more. Ralph
Thanks John. That jack is the type that I am looking for, though it is size large. Yet it does ratchet up, lock into place and ratchet up again as I am looking for. I just can't yet visualize how the internal components work. Ralph
-
Hi Art
I love your work and vids.
I took johns pic and drew some crude lines to show another
style that I used on my dads farm.
-
That turned out worse then expected.
I'll take a pic of said jack and post it on sat.
-
Thanks, couchspring. I do appreciate your efforts and think that I understand your indicated modifications. Just a little more help would do it. Any way you could take pics of the inside mechanism? Ralph
-
There is a jack now on ebay, what I had in mind originally. Had one just like at one time, til a neighbor broke it. Seller is: Inspectacles, under Collectibles, tools, ::: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Vtg-CAST-IRON-Horse-BUGGY-Wagon-TRACTOR-Farm-AUTOMOBILE-Car-JACK-Works-/121371512115?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c424e4d33. Going hunting for another this winter on farm sales, not spending 125 bucks for one either. Be a lot simpler to duplicate in miniature, then the big one I posted. I believe this is the model Couchspring has in mind.
-
Yes, John. That's one of the right sort. And plenty of pictures too.
I couldn't buy it, but I think now that I can duplicate it in miniature.
I'll study it some more. Thanks again. Ralph
-
The workings, there are no springs in this jack, to make the lower pawl work, you insert your fingers in the oval hole in the frame, and move the pawl to contact the rack. When finished, you can jack it back down, or flip the hook, that pivots on the handle side, and pull both pawls away at the same time.
-
Hi Art
I used my wife's phone for these and the last pic didn't
turn out. it had the pat no. on the handle.
-
That is exactly what I was thinking about, and just like the one I had. Does this one have the release wire running down the handle?
-
no wire or springs for as long as I can remember but it came
with them. I can get better pics on the 3rd or 4th when I get back there
or maybe my brother can send some to me.
-
Thanks, John and couchspring. That is the type of jack that I have been looking for, and I think that the pictures you posted will give enough information to prompt me well. That is - if I can do it at all. It does have some complicated features to fabricate, and if I were to build several, I would resort to wax pattern building, which is much easier to cut and join. But then more complex mold building and casting procedures would be required. I do believe that a metal cutting and welding (silver soldering) process will be the way to proceed. I'll keep you posted with success or lack of.
Ralph
-
Thanks for all the help, guys. I think that I can visualize the jack that I want now and have a good start cutting pieces and parts and soldering some together. This is slow tedious work doing it all meticulously by hand, but I've got two of 'em, so I'll carry on and post as I progress. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII002_zps1a82b843.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII007_zps9c17d106.jpg)
-
We are fortunate to be able to follow along as you create these miniatures!
-
We are fortunate to be able to follow along as you create these miniatures!
What he said!
-
Thanks, Gents. This project really has been a challenge requiring so many soldering operations. I thought that I had good skill at that, but have failed several times when preliminary joints came undone under the heat of near by soldering. Though I soldered the earlier joints with harder (higher melting temp) solder, subsequent solderings undid the earlier joints. I realized that the joints that actually carried stress in the operation of the jack needed to be put together first with hard solder. Then the lower load bearing joints were done with medium heat solder, etc. Still, somehow I goofed and had to reassess order and temperature regulation. I am really learning with this project that "sequencing" is a vital part of successful fabrication. Some things just have to be done first and some second, etc. Even yet, I'm running the risk of having the whole thing fall apart each time heat is applied, so I'll proceed carefully.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII012_zps28ae374f.jpg)
And some operations are just darn difficult to conduct by hand.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII020_zps9c7d0f0a.jpg)
A mill sure would have come in handy, but good skill with jeweler's saws and files will eventually do the trick.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII026_zps0be3f4a7.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII029_zps527a7a05.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII016_zpsfa093ded.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII017_zps80a3595d.jpg)
Thanks for coming along on this build. It is encouraging. Ralph
-
WOW!! nice work!!
-
Thanks, oldtools. A little progress every day.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII030_zpse0924de3.jpg)
Closer up
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII032_zpse5626d0a.jpg)
Two major parts come together
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII034_zps3341a77d.jpg)
-
Looking good Art, do you have all of the parts drawn up?
-
Hi, couchspring. Thanks for the help. I'm well under way. No; all the drawings that I have is what shows on the background graph paper. For the rest I have mental images and / or make it up as I go along. I typically ponder a piece for a long time to develop step by step procedures; then I find a starting point and build subsequent parts to fit and so on till all the pieces / parts come together to form the final unit. Then I analyze for proper operation, feel, and aesthetic appearance, and usually have to tweek, adjust or remake some parts. Ralph (aka Art)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII2002_zpsbea2267d.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII2005_zps79e0e5df.jpg)
-
That's the way I've designed sofa frames, draw a little on the
puter/ think about it/dittle on scratch paper/go to work and draw
more on the puter/cut on the router/ponder some more etc.
I love your graph paper drawings.
What are you soldering on, a ceramic block?
-
Back when I was into model railroading, there was a photo of a shop in Taiwan that built the beautiful brass locomotives, high dollar ones. The only soldering tool seen was the large electric hand held job with a pointy tip 1/2inch diameter, X 2 inches long. Seems they could apply tremendous spot heat quickly, and be done before the heat traveled. I have tried it, even with wiring, can solder multiple 12 ga. wires, without having the insulation melt an inch away. This jack project is coming along quickly. Just something about brass. I was wondering if you ever considered building a scale work bench to display your planes and other tools on?
-
looking good Art, I did some looking in the garage and found some jacks. one is shaped like
the one you are working on, but does not ratchet. it has the ? teeth like yours, but you have to set it close to the height and pull the lever down.
there is also a tire saver. they are supposed to be in a set of 4.
back in the teens and 20's, the folks that did have an automobile would park them in the shed for the winter due to the lack of good roads. they would put each one of these under the hubcap and
lift the car off of the floor to prevent flat spots on the tires during storage.
if you would like a picture of one, I will click it and have my wife help me put it on here.
your work is truly amazing, good luck with this one. Frank
eye shots have stopped the bleeding, but they have to keep a watch on them.
-
Hey, couchspring. Yes, I use a ceramic block to solder on and prevent burning the table underneath. Some times I use a carbon block (a thoroughly toasted 2x4) Both are good resistors of heat and do not siphon away critical melting temperature from the parts being joined. I've heard it said that those who use building strategies / procedures like we do are employing both sides of the brain well. Who knows? Sometimes I believe that I don't use either side and things just happen that surprise me with the results. Muscle memory? An alternate self at work? I don't know, but it works for me (sometimes).
Hi, john k. I wish that I had one of those soldering tools. but don't know of such thing. I've used a spot welding instrument ( the sort that pinch sheet metal together and deliver a hot electric spark to join the two, and I've seen tiny models that jewelers use to attach earring posts (to the backs of jewelry pieces - not to the ears :) ). But I wonder if a heat iron could deliver 1200 degree temperatures to braze / silver solder heavier parts together. It sure would make my work easier.
Hi, turnnut. I'm glad that your eye procedure is behind you now, but the bleeding still sounds critical. I hope that you recover well and quickly.
I do think that I now have enough information to complete this jack project - slowly as it seems to be going. Will post some more pics soon.
Ralph
-
I was wondering if you ever considered building a scale work bench to display your planes and other tools on?
Well, John, now that you mention it:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WorkBenchampToolboard003_zps02cd26a2.jpg)
See the action video on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9XXJ2tUhOU&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A&feature=share&index=10
And now I'm thinking about a proper tool box since the tool board and bench can no longer accommodate all my tools. Ralph
-
Hey, couchspring. Yes, I use a ceramic block to solder on and prevent burning the table underneath. Some times I use a carbon block (a thoroughly toasted 2x4) Both are good resistors of heat and do not siphon away critical melting temperature from the parts being joined. I've heard it said that those who use building strategies / procedures like we do are employing both sides of the brain well. Who knows? Sometimes I believe that I don't use either side and things just happen that surprise me with the results. Muscle memory? An alternate self at work? I don't know, but it works for me (sometimes).
Hi, john k. I wish that I had one of those soldering tools. but don't know of such thing. I've used a spot welding instrument ( the sort that pinch sheet metal together and deliver a hot electric spark to join the two, and I've seen tiny models that jewelers use to attach earring posts (to the backs of jewelry pieces - not to the ears :) ). But I wonder if a heat iron could deliver 1200 degree temperatures to braze / silver solder heavier parts together. It sure would make my work easier.
Hi, turnnut. I'm glad that your eye procedure is behind you now, but the bleeding still sounds critical. I hope that you recover well and quickly.
I do think that I now have enough information to complete this jack project - slowly as it seems to be going. Will post some more pics soon.
Ralph
Ralph,
Is this jack 1/4 scale?
I have a spot welder. I tried it on sheet copper once out of curiosity. It didn't do anything. Seems that metal as conductive as the welders points just conducts the power on through. The resistance of steel is key, converting the power to heat and some light. I should try it on stainless steel. I imagine it would work great because stainless is such a poor conducter of heat. Because of that I assume it is also poor conducter of electricity, a rule of thumb that has a few exceptions.
The regular electric soldering guns don't get hot enough for silver soldering. A soldering iron rated at 65 watts or more will get hot enough to melt silver solders, but still may not work on bigger pieces due to their heat sinking properties. A lot of products are soldered with low temperature solders. I think the term is eutectic metal? If I remember right, eutectic metals are ratios of metals where the combination results in the lowest possible melt point of that group of metals. The alloy doesn't degrade or seperate into its parts when heated. It goes from solid directly to liquid state. This all results in very low temperature melting. Its the kind of solder used in solder link sprinkler heads. Fire sprinklers have melt temperatures of 135º to 286º normally, with some at 350º to 500º.
Non structural components can be joined reliably with these low temperature solders. Technically, what Ralph is doing is brazing. Jewelers and plumbers usually say "silver soldering" instead of brazing. Technically, solder has a melt point below 842º, while brazing temperatures are above 840º.
The structural difference is evident with copper plumbing fittings. Copper sweat soldered fittings have a big surface area compared to a welded or brazed connection. The join isn't strong and needs a lot of area to withstand the expected water pressures. For fire sprinklers that rating is 200 psi. When we braze copper tube together the join is small (< 1/4" wide.) The joint is very strong. Generally, the pipe tears before the brazed join when stressed, whereas if you rip apart a soldered join itusually breaks in the solder.
Silver solder comes in different temperatures. Generally used are hard (1365º-1450º), medium(1275º-1360º), and easy(1240º-1325º). There is an IT grade and its melt point (1370º-1490º) is closer to that of silver. I think you would only use it on fine (99.999 pure) silver(1740º melt temperature.) Sterling silver (.925 parts out of 1.000) has a lower melt temperature (1640º) than fine. There is also an extra easy solder (1145º-1205º). The higher the temperature, the more silver looking the solder is. Lower temperature gets progressively brassier in appearance. The brassier colors come from zinc, which is the metal most often alloyed with silver in silver solders.
Jewelers plan their fabrication so that higher temperature solder is used first, progressing down to the lower temperatures. By doing it in that order you help avoid melting previous joins. Often experienced fabricators can use a single grade of solder. If I have been soldering a lot I can get enough control to use a single higher grade consistently. It is easier to do with lower temp solders.
Professional jewelers often use lasers and weld their joins. Kind of like mig welding with a pure silver feed wire. Except the laser (pulses) feeds in small points or drops, heating and adding a small spot of silver rather than a continuous wire.
Chilly
-
>spot welder. I tried it on sheet copper once ...
Yea, the choices are ugly, water cooled tungston electrodes and a ton of current, or a sandwich of a poor conductor that doesn't bond to copper (ie clean thin sheet steel). The first is mega$$$, the second only works with thin material (the heat is on the wrong side) and makes icky welds..
Welding copper can also drasticly change it's hardness...
The jewlers around here also had a soldering tool that was a two wire resistance heater, it had 2 wires/points close together as a tip, you stuck them to the thing you were soldering, current goes between them through the work and melts the solder..
-
..
Welding copper can also drasticly change it's hardness...
The jewelers around here also had a soldering tool that was a two wire resistance heater, it had 2 wires/points close together as a tip, you stuck them to the thing you were soldering, current goes between them through the work and melts the solder..
I think that any kind of heating to 700º-1100º makes copper soft and very malleable. We have a tool that drills a hole in copper tube then pulls up a short (3/16"?) lip up. Another tool notches a 2nd piece of copper to fit the 1st pipes contour. Put them together and braze it up - basically a free tee. The brazed pipe you could dent by pushing it with your finger. We prefabbed a bunch of them in the shop with 6" legs. They were bent and pointing every which way by the time they hit the jobsite. I thought it would look horrible. It ended up okay, you could grab the pipe and straighten it out by hand. Easy to push dents out with a 14" pipe wrench handle. Copper does start to work harden real quick though. I have heard that you can heat harden copper at some temperature. I havent tried it yet.
I think I've seen some similar soldering machines. Some of them required you to buy their proprietary "points?" or studs. The better ones you could put a certain guage of wire up next to the point and it would fuse the very end of your wire to the piece. I think one lead clipped to the workpiece and had a handle kind of like cross locking tweezers. The sparking end was in a fixed position under a microscope. They lined everything up while peering in the eyepiece, pressed a foot pedal, and zap - tiny puddle of melted precious metal. A group of zaps fused the join together. I think they are used to fill any porosity type pits from casting, too.
I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of those welders. Heck, I'd even drive it down to Ralph to see him have a go at it.
Chilly
-
Thanks, Chilly and rusty. You have stated very clearly what I've been trying to convey - silver soldering is brazing, and the operating temperatures are up there. And attention to heat regulation is vital and critical. Sometimes when I think that I have developed good expertise in the practice, I mess up, and it serves to remind me that high temperature procedures should never be taken lightly. I am entirely self taught; that means that I've learned all that I know (or think that I know) the hard way - through trial and much error, but am not necessarily aware or all procedures, methods, or materials or lingo of this craft.
Anyway, Chilly, yes I'm still trying to stay with the 1/4 scale, but these jacks varied considerably in size and lifting capacity, as I'm sure you all know. Some 8" to 16" jacks were used to raise small carriages and cars. Others as big as 36" (there may even have been some bigger than that) were used to jack up train cars and locomotive engines when they became derailed or needed repair. The bigger ones were even used to lift up houses and other buildings when they were to be relocated before the time of hydraulic jacks. So I am building my model to be about 3 inches tall (about the size of a Bic lighter) in the lowered position and to have a lifting range of about 1 1/2 inches.
-
Beautiful work bench & tools!! amazing work...
I am not an expert, but are you using a "Heat sink" on areas you don't want to re-melt when you silver solder? any metal clamp/clip that draws the heat away from the location you want to protect...
-
Thanks, oldtools. I did unintentionally and unsuccessfully apply a heat sink at one point when I was trying to hold two pieces together for silver solder joining. I held one piece on to another with needle nose pliers, and the pliers drew so much heat that I had to drop them before the parts or the solder reached melt and flow temperature. The pieces to be joined need to achieve such high temperatures (1200+ degrees), and the heat sink draws so much heat that either the pieces and solder don't reach that melt and flow temperature, or when they do the heat sink also does and serves no real purpose but to prolong the heating time. If heat sinks can be used, I need to learn how it is done. Ralph
-
Beautiful work bench & tools!! amazing work...
I am not an expert, but are you using a "Heat sink" on areas you don't want to re-melt when you silver solder? any metal clamp/clip that draws the heat away from the location you want to protect...
Silver is such a great conductor of heat, gold even more so, and copper, while not as good as silver or gold, is still many magnitudes better than most metals. Heat sinks can be used, but not as effectively as you might think. We tend to think of silver soldering as a process similar to O/A welding of steel, but it is in reality a much different technique.
When soldering precious and many non-ferrous metals you usually start by heating the whole piece. If you don't you simply spend more time heating your join longer until everything heats up. Then, when the whole thing is getting hot, just before you get to soldering temperature you focus on the join. If done right the solder flows into the join by capillary action. The solder flows to the heat, so you can kind of push or pull the puddle into the join. Then your whole piece is annealed and you need to pickle it, fabbricate some more or work harden it.
Your work really has to fit together well, silver solder doesn't fill gaps very well. I don't use wire solder for this work very often. I cut sheet solder into tiny pallions, in fact I have pliers that cut a tiny (less thsn 1/8") square from sheet solder. I lay the pallions on or next to my join and solder it. Everything has to be fluxed also. They have a type of flux that you dip the entire piece in. It helps to prevent firescale.
When soldering copper tube you heat one spot at the back of the solder area and feed the wire from the opposite side at the other side of the copper joint. On small tube, 1/2"- 3/4" and sometimes 1", I dont move my torch to any other point on the fitting. When the solder flows you are done. Pull the heat off, then remove the solder wire. Let cool a sec and wipe any slop off.
Most people mess up plumbing soldering by trying to put the solder where the heat is. It takes only a minute or two to sweat a fitting when done properly. I should add that plumbers usually hate tge way sprinkler fitters sweat copper. They say "you guys do it too hot and use way too much solder." We remind them not to chew their fingernails.
Chilly
-
I type on a notepad while burning your eyes with my ramblings here at tool talk and usually and I make many typographical mistakes. Sorry for both the typos and the rambling.
The copper tube connection is at a joint. Non-ferrous metal workers solder at a join. No letter "t." I don't know why.
My grand daughter calls yellow "yay-yo." I have started to say it like her. I don't know why. But she is so dang cute.
Chilly
-
Chilly & Art, Thanks for the replies, I used a heat Sink when soldering parts, but haven't use them when brazing or silver soldering. Like you said, need to start from hotter joint to lower heat joint.
-
I think that you are right, oldtools. I have used heat sinks when soldering electronic equipment to keep from damaging delicate items (chips or transistors).
Hi, Chilly. I was too interested in your content to detect any typos. Of the skills I have, typing is not one; I hunt and peck the keyboard with one finger and often mistype or double strike creating a slew of errors, but hopefully my message gets across. Yours does. Some of the more complicated things require thorough explanation, and I appreciate it. I do believe that I use the correct flux but know little about annealing, tempering, and hardening of metals -- not sure what is possible with nonferrous metals but remember having read somewhere that the Aztecs had known how to do many things that we today do not know including tempering and hardening gold so that it would retain a sharp edge. One of my greatest difficulties is removing scale and surface burns which detract from the appearance of articles I work with, and have been told that pickling would help with that, but I never do it -- don't know for sure how. What are your thoughts on those matters?
Ralph
-
Sometimes the smallest parts are the most challenging to fabricate.
The upper pawl consisted of 4 tiny pieces and required 3 soldering operations = 1day's work. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII2008_zpsc8dec011.jpg)
-
Hi, Chilly. I was too interested in your content to detect any typos. Of the skills I have, typing is not one; I hunt and peck the keyboard with one finger and often mistype or double strike creating a slew of errors, but hopefully my message gets across. Yours does. Some of the more complicated things require thorough explanation, and I appreciate it. I do believe that I use the correct flux but know little about annealing, tempering, and hardening of metals -- not sure what is possible with nonferrous metals but remember having read somewhere that the Aztecs had known how to do many things that we today do not know including tempering and hardening gold so that it would retain a sharp edge. One of my greatest difficulties is removing scale and surface burns which detract from the appearance of articles I work with, and have been told that pickling would help with that, but I never do it -- don't know for sure how. What are your thoughts on those matters?
Ralph
Ralph,
If you think of steel as an example the working state, or the state where it is most malleable, is when it is heated red hot but not molten. I think that most of us have seen pictures or some example of black smithing.
Normally we tend to think of solid stuff as static and we expect it to stay where we put it. It is really funny to me, but a lot of solid stuff is in motion. Remember when you first realized that atoms are mostly space? Even though the outward appearance doesn't change, a lot of stuff is slowly aligning its internal structure to its most comfortable state. And, in the case if most non-ferrous metals, that comfortable state is hardened. They can harden by work hardening, heat can be used to change their hardness, and just sitting around can eventually get the job done.
Most non-ferrous metals have a much lower working temperature. They remain malleable at room temperature. This workable state is called annealed. When you purchase sterling silver shapes it is sold as either "dead soft", "half hard", "hard / full-hard", or "spring hard". Dead soft is fully annealed progressing up to spring hard, which is as hard as it gets. The point is that metal hardness changes. Whenever you heat it to brazing temperature either by soldering or by annealing it will soften or anneal.
When you stress metal it hardens. Hit (smite is the word we get smith or smithing from) it, bend it, or harrass it in any way and it toughens up. Stress it too much and it will crack.
Now that we have enough of the why's and how's out of the way, lets get down to brass tacks. To anneal or soften copper and silver you need heat it to plum red. I don't use the color of the metal as I find it hard to see the right point on copper and sterling silver. Rather, I use a black sharpie. I draw a swirl on the metal, heat it evenly with my torch, and when the sharpie marks disappear I quench the copper or silver in water. Then I pickle it to remove oxidation (only sterling silver oxidizes, fine silver not so much.) Copper will be soft if allowed to cool at room temperature, but quenching it catches those molecules at their most relaxed.
To anneal brass you don't need to be quite as hot. Heat it evenly until it becomes black. Then quench and pickle.
Steel is another story and I'll leave that to the blacksmiths here.
Aluminum is trickier. While the other metals I have mentioned anneal at about half their melt temperature, aluminuum anneals much closer to its melt point. To me, it looks exactly the same melted as it does hot as it does at room temperature. Rub it with a bar of hand soap. Manly soap like Dial, not soap with skin softeners. Coat it completely. Heat it slowly and, when the soap blackens, quench it in water. Clean it up in water, you don't need to pickle it. Quench aluminum fast.
Annealing makes all forming operations easier including sawing, cutting, and filing.
Almost everything can be annealed in some way to remove stresses built up in the material. I anneal glass at 960º for a varied time based on thickness and size, but usually for a minimum of 1/2 hour for small baubles. Glass is so rigid that if you don't anneal it, over time, as the glass tries to move to its comfortable point, it breaks. It can happen weeks or months after the piece is made.
PICKLING
Most stuff oxidizes. For the kind if stuff that is made with copper, it turns black. On its own we call it tarnish, when we heat it we call it oxidation. With steel it is rust and with wood and other organic carbon stuff we call it char or burnt. Wrinkles are not oxidation, they just mean our skin is bigger and isn't as stretchy as it used to be.
Oxidation -you can brush it off with wire brushes but pickling is easier. You know how we are told to remove rust with a vinegar and water solution? That is pickling. It actually does cause wrinkles on cucumbers, and we can be pickled in the tub with the universal solvent, water.
I use a mild acid pickle that I get from Naja Tools. I don't mix it quite as strong as directed to, but it takes a bit more time to pickle my work. I have an old crock pot that I picked up at a yard sale. I don't always plug the crock pot in. Warm pickle works faster. One big thing to remember is: Do not put any ferrous metal in your pickle. Iron is more reactive than copper and will cause copper to fall out of solution, plating your stuff with a layer of copper. Replace your pickle when it is no longer doing the job. You can neutralize it with urea or baking soda (carefully) until the ph is neutral, then dispose of it. If you have used most of it up you won't have much acid left to neutralize. When I'm not needing it I put my pickle in a glass jar that seals well.
You may have heard the term "fire scale." Fire scale is oxidized copper just below the metals surface. It is hard to remove and you usually have to sand or buff it out with something abrasive. I usually avoid it by using flux, watching my heat, and by soldering and annealing clean metal.
Happy 4th of July Ralph! Your work is wonderful!
Chilly
-
Thanks Chilly. That explains a lot - why some parts that I allowed to air cool were softer and easier to file and cut than some which I impatiently cooled in water. I should have made the connection but must have thought that it was just random. Metal really is tricky to work with. I am remembering now some such similar events in my earlier work that rendered some parts almost useless for lack of or too much hardness. I still spend too much time cleaning up surface crud, particularly when several soldering operations are required. After each joint I have to cool the joined parts (some times in air and some in water) then remove oxidation and clean up the piece well before performing the next soldering operation, etc. That is why I've made such a big deal about some finished pieces that required three of even more soldering operations. It isn't just a matter of going from one solder joint to the next and on to the next Each time the metal is heated for soldering it all gets oxidized and has to be reprepared for subsequent operations. Maybe now I can work smarter. Thanks for the education. Ralph
-
Yep, after soldering toss it in water and pickle. It will be clean and easier to work with.
Chilly
-
Things are coming together. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII2010_zps72aa511f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII2015_zps2e49080e.jpg)
-
Hi Ralph, looks like you are making progress, the parts are way smaller than the picture shows,
right ?
nice clear picture, may I ask what kind of camera you are using ?
have a good day, Frank
-
Hi, Frank. Yes, progress every day, but sometimes it is one step back. It should be finished tomorrow - or so.
And yes, the parts are considerably smaller than they appear on my screen.
The background graph paper is 1/4 inch squares. I use a FugiFilm digital camera S4000.
It's a cheaper Nikon knock off, but it works OK for me. Ralph
-
Well Gentlemen and Ladies, the parts came together, and the Miniature Compound Lever Jack works nicely. It may need a little more tweeking and maybe buffing and polishing. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII4ampBic012_zps0f88a69c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII4ampBic014_zps10b680f0.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII4ampBic015_zpsbcbf6e49.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackII4ampBic028_zpsc7c0f5de.jpg)
I'll try to post an action video this afternoon. Ralph
-
You are the master! Fantastic work as usual!
I'll be watching for the video.
-
Thanks, Papaw. Your impression is always important to me. On this project I got lots of help from folks on this forum. Thank you all for the assistance, encouragement and support. Ralph
See action video on YouTube: http://youtu.be/wvQAXxTgQJE
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/JackIIfin005_zps3ea8441c.jpg)
-
Just wonderful!
Chilly
-
Thanks Chilly. I surely appreciate all the technical support you provided throughout. Ralph
-
That was fast, way faster than I thought it would come about. I'll just say you do awful nice work. Oh, like that work bench too.
-
Ralph, I just watched your video, it is absolutely amazing. when you were talking about trying to make this type of jack, I felt that if anyone could do it, it would be you.
I was glad to see that you worked your way thru the various steps with determination.
again, my hat is off to you, great job.
and you picked a red tractor to demonstrate with, bravo.
you would chuckle if you watched me last year jacking up my 1941 Farmal - A to put
on a new tire. jack, block, jack, block etc. "but safely."
Frank
-
Hi, John. Fast? I've been pondering this build for months and finally felt that I had enough data (and courage) to start the build some three weeks ago. It seemed to me to take forever though I worked on it day and night once I got started till the piece is finished. I do believe that with all I learned on this one, the second one would be much easier and take less tine, but I usually only make one of any piece. Thanks for the encouragement along the way. I'm glad that you appreciate my work.
Hi, Frank. With all the encouragement I got from you and others, I was determined to complete this project, though I stumbled through some of it and had to remake some components. I wouldn't have known it, but just getting the upper and lower pawls to work in synch was a trick - not to mention cutting the teeth on the inner post by hand. Yes, I picked a Red tractor to demonstrate with. I too have a Farmall A, and I know just what you mean about changing tires - I don't have a full size tractor lifting lever jack.
Ralph
-
that was fast and it turned out great! my dad's red tractor is a super c, his first tractor and he
purchased it when it was new.
-
Thanks, couchspring. Sometimes I do catch fire and really go for the end zone,
and sometimes I loose interest if I can visualize the completion.
That's when it takes forever.
We do love our tractors. I have a green one too. Ralph
-
Well Gentlemen and Ladies, the parts came together, and the Miniature Compound Lever Jack works nicely. It may need a little more tweeking and maybe buffing and polishing. Ralph
Gasp! What a beauty!!
-
Thanks, Branson.
And now I'm off in a new direction. A special friend has requested a pair of miniature framing hammers to commemorate a long term partnership.
Fabricating any piece can be a challenge, but producing two identical pieces is always more so.
I've got a good start.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer001_zpsec0de456.jpg)
My first thought was to build a wood pattern and create a "split half" plaster mold, but that would not necessarily yield two castings.
Sometimes the mold falls apart after the first casting. And the wood model just didn't turn out good enough.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer002_zpsf72d2882.jpg)
So I decided to build a wax pattern and go the lost wax casting route.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer006_zps0cfa1280.jpg)
The wax pattern turned out much nicer.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer008_zps8a00bc01.jpg)
Now I can either invest this pattern in plaster and cast it to make a master pattern from which a rubber mold can be made to produce identical wax patterns for final casting,
or I can try to make a latex mold directly from this wax pattern and risk loosing it leaving no option but to start over.
Latex mold making is new to me, so I'm hesitant. But rubber mold making is so darn difficult,
and that route would require two molten metal castings - one to produce the master pattern and one to yield the final pieces.
I'll think about it for a while and post updates. Ralph
-
Can't you cast it in silicone and use the silicone to cast your wax?
Chilly
-
Yes. That is one of the options that I am considering, but I don't know how hot injected wax affects the silicone mold. If a silicone mold can deliver more than one model injected hot I'll proceed with that and skip that lengthy step of casting a master pattern then building a rubber mold to yield final casting patterns. Think it will work? Ralph
-
Ralph,
I dont know if all silicone is the same, but I have seen jewelers inject the light blue stuff with no problems.
I would think you could make dozens from one mold.
Chilly
-
good luck Ralph, I know that you will find the answer after a little talk with yourself. Frank
-
Your work is superb, Ralph - of the very highest quality. Thank you for creating these masterpieces - and for posting so many pictures of them here.
James
-
I just saw the video, you did a fine job explaining the function of that style jack. I never tried lifting a tractor, because we always had that big one. But, wagons, equipment tongues, hitches, it worked hard. Now I am missing it more. Thank you Art.
-
Thanks, All. I just ordered some special silicone to build a mold - on hold now waiting for slow mail
and still a little hesitant when I try new procedures.
I'm gratified that you all appreciate my work and glad to post as things go along.
Your interest is encouraging and the help given me is much appreciated. Ralph
-
Had house guests all week and didn't get to do much work on my project but worked a little on the handles for the new hammers.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer2004_zps018dae90.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammer2010_zps33427f4d.jpg)
Next I'll work on the silicone mold and produce wax patterns for casting. Maybe I can make good progress this weekend. Ralph
-
thats a nice start on the hammers,
after having the guest, do you feel more relaxed while working on the project ?
a fresh start ? Frank
-
Hi, Frank. It is nice to have family visit, and since I live at the base of Pikes Peak near The Garden of the Gods, etc., my house is a likely place for guests.
But I like my alone time and got right back to it and made some progress yesterday.
Chilly had suggested that I try a "new" to me mold making procedure - Silicone.
I am most familiar with rubber molds having built scores of rubber molds - the hard way,
cutting strips, packing around a metal model in a solid frame and vulcanizing it under pressure in an oven.
This procedure requires that a metal master pattern first be made / cast from an original carved wax model, etc. etc. etc..
I have posted an account of that procedure further up this string.
This "new" procedure spares several laborious steps
and did yield good results with half the work in much less time
since I could encapsulate an original wax model in silicone
then just cut it open with no heat vulcanizing.
Hot wax was injected directly into the mold to produce exact soft wax copies for casting. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammermold1_zps7a590cb4.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammermold2_zpse4e4e033.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammermold3_zps3a9ff704.jpg)
Next plaster molds will be created for casting the final pieces.
Two hammers were requested, but I always like to build an extra piece for a commission in case something goes wrong.
And if all works out OK, the extra piece is for my collection.
-
It was a productive weekend. The casts came out beautifully - shown here with annealing fire scale before pickling:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammercast1_zps1ad06931.jpg)
and separated:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammercast2_zps18bc1631.jpg)
These will clean up nicely, and the handles will be fitted. Ralph
-
They sort of look like chocolate, you are making me hungry ;P
Very nice :)
RTV Rubberized silicone is awesome stuff ...
-
Thanks, Rusty. Silicone really is incredible stuff.
Progressing slowly.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Danshammer2heads003_zps30913b17.jpg)
Next - progressively finer sanding, buffing and polishing. And maybe a little more fine tuning the handles. Ralph
-
looking good Ralph.
you always have my attention, something my high school teachers had a hard time with.
I have been meaning to ask you how you put the sterling stamp on the tools ?
have a good day, Frank
-
Hi, Frank. I do appreciate your attentive support. The "STERLING" stamp is a commercial steel stamp which is applied with a swift hammer blow. Also have "14K" and "10K" stamps, but need a stamp with my brand, "RJ" or something like that. Ralph
-
The framing hammers are finished and in the mail. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammertwobuffedB_zps63a6530a.jpg)
And what became of the third one? Since I had an opportunity to stray from the norm and exercise artistic license it just resulted.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammertwocustomc_zps23345a54.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammertwocustomb_zps8c2a3d5b.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/DansHammercustomc_zpsf36726d3.jpg)
-
Did you checker the face too? Another great project as always from your work shop.
-
Hi, Les. Thanks again. Yea, tried to make 'em original like, except for the third handle - exercised more artistic license there. Ralph
-
After cleaning house (work bench) of some of the clutter that tends to accumulate around me wherever I work, I've started a new project.
For practical purposes, and other considerations, this project will be about 1/10 scale. I'm not exactly sure since I don't have a live model for proper measurements. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbaro002_zps182b2613.jpg)
Well, this is not really a "new" project. It is a return to an idea that struck me years ago, and I'm just now getting around to it.
Sometimes ideas just have to incubate some, and sometimes they are on "back burner" status on my "to do list" for a spell.
Note the date of this original sketch in the upper left hand corner.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbaro2002_zps6f3e8ef4.jpg)
This miniature wheelbarrow will be constructed of Walnut and Oak with brass and silver accents.
First, I prepared some stock material, and since pieces and parts are so small, I called into play (work) some of the miniature tools on my bench.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarro3001_zps0ce7485c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarro3003_zps852acff0.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarro3007_zps6f86bce9.jpg)
And put some parts together with tight joinery, glue and dowels. Some other parts will be secured with bolts and other metal hardware.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbaro001_zps1d8319f1.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbaro2002_zps6f3e8ef4.jpg)
-
Art nice project. I have one my Uncle gave me that at one time was my Grand Fathers or my Great Grand Fathers. The bed is about 30 - 32 inches long and the sides are removable. It has small stake pockets (steel) that the side board rails slide into. If you need pictures let me know.
-
I think it is like this one, seen at an antique expo, snapped a pic of it because, Sides come off and slip into stake pockets as Lewill said.
-
Thanks, Les. I have pondering this one for some 30+ years and think that I have a picture well in mind.
It is based on one that my grandfather had when I was young. Don't know what became of it but sure wish that I had it now.
You are very fortunate to have yours.
Yes, John. That's the one! Sure like that wooden wheel.
I'm building the wheel of brass from flat stock with round spokes and having trouble getting it centered to true round.
I always have trouble with that. Anybody have any hints on how to remedy that problem so that the wheel doesn't wobble.
I may have to try to build a wooden wheel - as if that would be any easier.
Well, I'll post pics as it develops.
Ralph
-
I think the only way to get a wheel running true is with a lathe. Or when nearly finished, spin it on an axle, adjusting as you go. I have started a full size wheel for a barrow, thought I"d use round spokes, and tack the tire on in sections rather than a whole tire. Wagon wheels were built that way back before the Civil War.
-
I have a Studebaker wheel barrow wheel that someday I will build the barrow for. Like most of the elder wheels for barrows, the spokes are square, no rounding at all. This one has only four spokes, not uncommon. One of Roy Underhill's Woodwright's Shop episodes was about making a wheelbarrow wheel.
The old ones Kept the wheel from wobbling by making the hub wide/long enough to fill the whole space between the handles.
-
Some day I'll experiment on just building wheels. One wouldn't think that a wheel, among the oldest of humanity's instruments, would be so complicated and difficult to build.
And this is for a wheel barrow - imagine building a wheel that is perfectly centered and balanced on all axis to hold up heavy weight at 200 mph+.
This build may have turned out to be more complicated than at first it may have seemed
due to the many angles built into it and the need for perfect symmetry and, of course, the small scale.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbaro006_zpsfdc451f8.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarro4004_zpsec406d45.jpg)
-
Excellent job, now you have something to move the miniature tools around with. The wheel came out looking like a cast iron wheel on some horse drawn equipment. Building one that size in wood? Now that would be challenging. Was said the wheel barrow spokes are square rather than round, I also notice the felloes go to one spoke only. On a wagon wheel the felloes would cover two spokes, unless factory steam bent then they covered 180 degrees of the wheel, only two felloes per wheel. Now you got us wondering what's next?
-
Thanks, John. The wheel turned out ok - hammered perfectly round with spokes evenly spaced and soldered on to the hub.
But, somehow some spokes got shorter as it went around, and when the solder set the hub migrated.
Slowly as it turns, it's hardly noticeable, but I know (and now everybody knows). It is easy to change the wheel if I ever make another.
Anyway, it's not quite finished. Little did I suspect that the bracing would be so challenging to construct and install.
I bent and twisted flat stock every which way and never did get it right. So I resorted to using round stock.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow7015_zps191b7e1f.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow7016_zpse24136ef.jpg)
-
A little progress Today. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow5002_zpsa409cdda.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow5005_zps1e4672eb.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow6001_zpse6808946.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow7022_zps29c106cf.jpg)
-
I sit here in awe viewing this latest art of yours, and day dream of what it would look like full scale on the farm. Amazing work. Thanks for choosing to share it with us! I don't think that can be said enough.
-
Thanks, Oilyrascal. I do believe that nostalgia drives my hobby taking me back to earlier moments that I cherished.
And when a project is done it feels like I've captured the moment permanently.
Here it is with a lacquer finish. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow8005_zps81ca6a46.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow8006_zpsdf44a2d2.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow9005_zps00576791.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheelbarrow9004_zpsed2482a5.jpg)
See the action video on Youtube: http://youtu.be/v8zn_SdTnFk?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Hi Ralph, we were up in Maine when you finished the hammers, my wife brought her laptop
computor, but where we were staying near the water in Rockland, we had no internet service.
the lodge we stayed in was a 1/2 down a dirt road off of RT #1 (peaceful)
back to the hammers, nice job, I hope they liked them, but the one you made for yourself,
now thats a classic, very nice work on the handle.
then the wheel barrow ? what can I say about that ? beautiful creation, I can picture that
at Christmas time with pieces of white birch piled in it, next to a miniture fireplace created
by you.
it is interesting to see the differant types of material that you pick for your projects
just checking out your projects makes my day. thank you, Frank
-
I can see that barrow filled with miniature pumpkins you have carved, or one big one! My miniatures seldom come out this square and proportioned.
-
WOW!! Awesome work!!
-
Thanks, guys.
Part of the fun of building miniatures is imagining and remembering how they were used and impacted our lives. It is interesting to hear the memories that they conjure and stories that they prompt. Most of us of certain age, culture and persuasion are drawn back to a time when we experienced the article with reminders of the events that surround it. I just love sharing my stuff with my dad (and with all of you) and hearing recount of memories stimulated and related accounts. Thank you all for the accolades you offer and for the stories that you share. Ralph
-
Ralph, talking about memories from the past, did you ever make a miniature horse drawn
drag scoop ? they had two handles on them. I have an old one behing the garage in the weeds.
when I was a little tyke, my Dad needed a way to move stones when we were making an area for a garden, he took an old automobile hood and welded braces on it and installed branch limbs for handles,
He would pull it with his home made tractor that he made with a crosley engine and two transmissions,
I would ride on it to scoop stones and dump it at the end of the row.
that is one memory from the 40's. Frank
-
Just two notes: the "horse drawn drag scoop" w/ two handles is a Slip A bigger/longer variety for a team of 2 or 3 is a Fresno.
-
Hi. No, I have not built a scoop / slip, but I have a rear scoop in my back yard that hooks up to the three point hitch of my 9N Ford tractor which I used to level out a spot to build my barn.
I might consider building a miniature version.
Fresno? I'd heard the word but didn't know what it referred to. Ralph
-
The bigger Fresno, I have usually heard reference to in the early days of railroad building. My father worked for a highway construction company in Southern Illinois in the 1920s. Drove a water wagon, handled teams, and was pretty accomplished with a slip, he was 15 and big for his age. This was near Watson, south of Effingham. Okay, Art, if not a Slip, how about a horse drawn grader, on steel, that should keep you busy for a few weeks.
-
Hi John. At first when I started working with the rear scoop on my Ford 9N tractor It (I) was not all that effective,
but it quickly grew on me, and I became very handy with it. It worked only when it was dragged / pulled forward.
Some years later I saw a model that was reversible and could scoop backing up. I still want one of those - full size.
I actually have seen one of those horse drawn graders and still know where it is.
As I remember, the blade was lowered, raised and tilted by use of crank wheels but can't quite remember just how.
I think that I will go and take a better look at it and take some pictures, even though it seems beyond my level. Ralph
-
There are two early versions of the grader on my grandfather's place. I found a few pictures in the archives. I'd be happy to take better pics of either if you wanted them.
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3623.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3623.jpg.html)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3622.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3622.jpg.html)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3621.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3621.jpg.html)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3620.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3620.jpg.html)
the second:
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3618.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3618.jpg.html)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3617.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3617.jpg.html)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/alphinde/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3615.jpg) (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/alphinde/media/Oily%20Shop%20Project/Day%205%20-%20Sunday%20March%2018/DSCN3615.jpg.html)
-
Oily, you got to get that out of the trees, sand blast it, paint her up, and use it for yard art by your new house! Never saw a grader converted to rubber tires. Still want to come down there and dig thru the trees and bottoms.
-
Nice pics, Oily. I like those exposed gears -- and all the rest of it.
But I still think that project is beyond my abilities being loaded with wheels and gears which I am not good at.
I'll study it more. Ralph
-
Since so many projects that I consider call for wheels,
and since I knew and stated that I was not very accomplished at building them,
I decided to conduct some serious experimenting and learn how to build a good and true wheel.
In the past I had used flat stock made round on the anvil horn. It resulted in a good circular form.
The hubs that I've built were also good.
But when I put the round and the hub together with spokes, things got off center and askew so that the wheel bounced and wobbled.
This time I decided to cut rims from brass plumbing pipe:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1002_zps0fc8e176.jpg)
Then I turned the hubs, measured carefully, marked equal spacing and drilled holes to match on the rim and hub employing tooth picks for alignment
. (http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1004_zpsad8bd589.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1008_zps0ffef6c6.jpg)
Then to ensure that all the parts were true and level devised an apparatus for assembly:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1017_zpsd1699711.jpg)
And inserted spokes true to the rim and the hub:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1018_zps213b63bd.jpg)
And a nice true - balanced wheel resulted:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1013_zps603f0a03.jpg)
So I did it again. And now there are two built to resemble old style type implement wheels.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels1023_zps0cca32e6.jpg)
Two more and I can build a four wheeler of some sort.
I didn't intend to make such a big deal of it all since building wheels must be one of the oldest crafts in the history of mankind.
But it was a nagging shortcoming of mine that I had to overcome once and for all.
I may in the future discover better methods and instrumentation, and I'm open to all ideas,
since I know that there must be more than one way to build a wheel. Ralph
-
Inventors, artists, and others have been attempting to re-invent the wheel since it was first devised!
-
Art,
It looks as if the hub holes are offset from centerline and the rim holes are centered. Is that observation accurate?
If so, why are they designed like that? How hard were those hub holes to drill?
I am once again in awe, looking at the pictures of your craftsmanship.
Chilly
-
Bicycle and motorcycle spokes are designed that way. The spokes can be adjusted to correct out of round and off-center.
-
Some, a few wagon wheel spokes are set that way as well. Great work on these wheels, you know these would look great on a riding, "Sulky" plow.
-
Hi Chilly.
And thanks again. Yes, the holes are offset on the on the hub and centered on the rim.
I'm sure that Papaw is correct regarding bikes, etc., but I'm not sure why they were offset on "solid" antique heavy equipment.
It might have been done to distribute the load along a greater portion of the axle.
Perhaps some of the other old timers (I say that respectfully) know better why that was done.
I was merely trying to closely copy some old wheels that I've seen to add authenticity to a project
and also noticed that often the front wheels were smaller diameter and had spokes centered on the rim and the hub.
That's what I'm working on next. The holes on the hub were a Bear to drill perfectly spaced and angled.
I used a V block propped on the drill press and drilled 8 holes in each hub before separating them,
having learned the hard way that I needed to be able to hold the stock for drilling.
This is evident in the picture of the hubs with all the toothpicks.
Ralph
-
Thanks, John.
A riding sulky plow would be a good idea. I'm still also considering the horse drawn road grader you suggested,
but I hesitate to commit till I'm sure that I can actually do it, and I just can't see it in my mind's eye quite yet.
And I just botched the second set of wheels and screwed up in trying to cut a gear, so I'm starting over - next week.
Ralph
-
very nice job done on those wheels Ralph.
never would have thought about copper pipe for rims, good idea.
as for the offset spokes, to me it would seem like it would prevent side flexing
on wider rims like on implements. (not sure if I said that right)
it would give it inside & outside equal strength.
thats only my obsevation.
good luck on learning to make differant types of gears.
Frank
-
Thanks Frank.
Yes, of course - increased rigidity and flex prevention and decreased lateral sway . That makes good sense.
And I can see how that works - the same reason that towers such as windmill, etc. are built in "A" frame patterns to increase rigidity and stability under load (wind and weight).
Ralph
-
Had a good weekend, and managed to build two more wheels.
These two are front wheels at 1.5 inch diameter with the spokes centered (not o0ffset) on the hub.
The first two are rear wheels at 1.75 inch diameter.
I think that I've got wheel building down to a fine science,
but I can't say that I enjoy it. It is still a breath-holding, highly anxious experience for me.
Drilling eight 1/16 inch holes centered and equally spaced on a 1/2 inch hub is very tricky.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2017_zpsf33c3d4b.jpg)
-
These wheels wouldn't look all that bad on a wagon. Horse drawn type with the 5th wheel on the front axle. Very nice work.
-
very nice Ralph.
if I may, I will use two words.
"Drill Master"
have a good week, Frank
-
>Drilling eight 1/16 inch holes centered and equally spaced on a 1/2 inch hub is very tricky.
Some of the very first machines designed to automate woodworking were machines for making hubs and spokes for wagon wheels. It is not all that easy full sized either ;P
Those wheels would look great on a steam traction engine ...
-
Thanks, Gents.
Those are all good ideas and may have a place in my future.
But, for now, I'm hooked on the idea of building an old type horse drawn grader as John K suggested.
I figured that if I could build four acceptable wheels and the blade adjustment hand wheels and worm gears
I could figure out the rest.?? Any way, I'm headed in that direction - I think.
Ralph
I hammered the hand wheels on the anvil horn to true round (getting good at that).
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2001_zps8075ba58.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2007_zps418cb7de.jpg)
Now the tricky part -- drilling four 1/16 inch holes in each wheel for spokes.
Practiced some on a straight 1/8 inch rod. This was like manufacturing a sewing needle.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels3002_zpsd1721243.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels3003_zps1b9f4ef7.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels3004_zpsf58d0763.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels3002_zpsd1721243.jpg)
-
I'm in love with it already. I'm so happy you've decided to conquer this.
-
Thanks Oily.
It's been a week of errors and do-overs.
I decided to work on the frame and could find no acceptable preformed members anywhere.
Anybody know where small Brass (or for that matter - steel) "I" "H" "T" or channel beams can be found.
Finding none, I had no choice but to try to fabricate something and settled on 1/4 inch "T" beams for strength and adaptability.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels4Grader001_zps77e5fc75.jpg)
It looks crude, and it was darn difficult to create.
1/16 X 1/4 inch flat brass stock was angle cut, laid out flat in form and the joints silver soldered.
Then another flat brass stock was angle cut and laid out on edge to perfectly fit the previous member.
The two were mated, wired together tightly to hold the proper fit and shape and silver soldered along the entire length
to produce a strong structurally sound united frame piece.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels4Grader007_zpsf5012874.jpg)
Then bracing was fashioned and bolted in place with double 1-72 1/4 inch brass bolts.
Again, drilling perfectly spaced 1/16 inch holes (and so many of them) was challenging.
On my bench top can be seen other braces that will be strategically located and bolted on.
the rear axle and wheels were also installed
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels4Grader018_zpse3fc2bbe.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels4Grader015_zps1a285204.jpg)
Ralph
-
Hi Ralph, looks like you have been busy. looking good, but before you go any further,
it looks like the angle frame lip are both facing the same way, 1 inside & 1 outside, or
am I seeing things ?
Frank
-
Hi Ralph, looks like you have been busy. looking good, but before you go any further,
it looks like the angle frame lip are both facing the same way, 1 inside & 1 outside, or
am I seeing things ?
Frank
T shape?
-
I think brass shapes (angle and u-shapes can be found where they make strained glass. i think I saw some on a rack with the lead came.
Chilly
-
Art, your sense of design and scale are amazing, looks like another great miniature coming along great.
-
>"I" "H" "T" or channel beams can be found.
Also the model train folks used to have that stuff, there are still people who hand build brass locomotives..
Bigger shapes can be found in Muntz metal, small shapes are hard except for the model stuff, which you are gonnay pay dearly for..
-
Hi, Frank. Yes, I've been busy, and progress seems so slow - especially when every part has to be fabricated from scratch employing flat stock.
It just seems that everything I need does not exist, and it all has to be hand made.
But actually, there is where the fun is. It's kinda like building your own erector set one piece at a time but with greater precision and with tighter tolerances.
Chilly is correct; the frame members are "T" shape, and a lip extends both inside and outside on each member.
I did find some of that stained glass angle and channel brass, but it is just too thin and flimsy for this "industrial" application.
Thanks Les. It is coming together - slowly - since I'm designing it as it goes along with one part built to fit the previous and the subsequent part to fit the last, etc.
But I do have a picture in mind and some drawings to work from, if not blue prints, on my desk pad to give a sense of scale.
And I am learning to appreciate the importance of sequencing; some operations must be done first to make subsequent operations less difficult or even possible.
Thanks, Rusty. I have scavenged all the model and train sites and rummaged through all the hobby stores and metal places that I could find on the net and found none,
but I am fortunate to have found assortments of tiny bolts and nuts.
-
There are 1" beams:
http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/hobby-shop/hobby-products-tools-paints-wood-metal-plastic-hobby-supplies/architectural-scale-model-building-supplies/all-scales-structural-engineer-design-supplies/all-scales-structural-beams-truss-columns.html
-
Thanks Oily. They (Oak Ridge) carry round brass stock and brass bolts & nuts, but their "I" "H" etc. beams are all plastic.
I'm still looking for a brass supplier to finish this project and for the next.
Ralph
-
Art, Just in case you haven't seen these suppliers yet.
http://www.specialshapes.com/brassshapes.html
http://www.hobbylinc.com/brass-hobby-and-craft-metal-tubing-sheets-strips-wire-rods
Don't forget to check out McMaster Carr they might have something too.
-
Denver has to have some big model and hobby shops that carry scale building material, I would think. There is a large chain, art supply store here that has the same, plus scale lumber for architects, unfortunately not in Colo. Last time I was there I saw brass copper and aluminum tubing in squares, rounds and other shapes, up to almost 1/2 in. Grader looking good from here.
-
hi Ralph, I was glad to hear that I was wrong about the rails, you are the Master.
I am not sure if you are interested in material from the U.K. but here is another site to check,
they also list some of the suppliers, you might want to copy their names and google them.
www.wonderlandmodel.com/model-tools-and-materials
good luck, Frank
-
Art, Just in case you haven't seen these suppliers yet.
http://www.specialshapes.com/brassshapes.html
http://www.hobbylinc.com/brass-hobby-and-craft-metal-tubing-sheets-strips-wire-rods
Don't forget to check out McMaster Carr they might have something too.
http://www.specialshapes.com/Beams.html
Brass I-Beams 1/4" H x 1/8" W (and smaller)
-
Thanks, guys. With some such help I'll get this grader done, though it will be a while. This project is testing me thoroughly. Ralph
-
The front truck is about done. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/FrontWheels4Grader007_zpsaa132c57.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/FrontWheels4Grader006_zpsa5b7393c.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/FrontWheels4Grader004_zps84c1a7ac.jpg)
-
I want to know where you're going to get the horses to hitch :huh: :huh: :huh:
-
Hi, Oily.
I've got some traps set out now in hopes that I could wrangle a couple of squirrels for the job.
Someone told me that they can be trained to be good draft animals. : )
However, I have a ways to go to figure out the blade mechanisms.
Ralph
-
Ralph, you will have to keep an eye on the squirrels, they will steal the nuts off of the grader.
looks like you carefully thought out that front truck setup.
Frank
-
Hi, Frank. Since I'm making it up as I go, from memory and pictures, everything requires careful consideration and measured approximation.
And still I had to build almost every part at least twice to get it right.
Back to the hand wheels. I had hammered two perfectly round wheels from 1/8 inch round stock and turned two (actually, several) hubs.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2004_zps0510e0db.jpg)
and practiced drilling 1/16 inch holes on straight 1/8 round stock
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels3004_zpsf58d0763.jpg)
Then drilled four 1/16 inch holes at 90 degrees to each other around the wheel (whew!)
and drilled and tapped the hubs for spokes and set screws and put the hubs, hand wheels and spokes together.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2handGrader001_zps59ade3fb.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2handGrader002_zpsc48770b7.jpg).
These required about as much precision as I have ever encountered, and I erred a few times, but they are done.
Now for the worm gears . . . After several attempts, there is still nothing that works to show.
-
Art, for your worm gears can you spiral wrap some of your 1/16 rod on a hub to act as your worm gear? I realize it won't look quite right but the end result might be workable.
-
Art, for your worm gears can you spiral wrap some of your 1/16 rod on a hub to act as your worm gear? I realize it won't look quite right but the end result might be workable.
Square or triangle cross section was my thought.
Chilly
-
Thanks for the hints, guys.
I'm still pondering solutions and so far have only a growing collection of rejected parts and a pile of swarf.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderscrap001_zpsd847ba55.jpg)
I'll work on other parts while some incubate.
Ralph
-
Swarf, I remember the first time I heard that term I was working on a project in the UK. I was heading up the on site installation as well as being the Project Manager for the entire project. The customer's safety guy inspected our work area when we weren't there. We had to work nights the rest of the warehouse worked long days. The safety inspector gigged us for leaving behind swarf in our work area. I had to ask what he was talking about. My contact was an American female engineer/Project Manager and she didn't know either. She had to ask the safety guy to explain it to both of us. Brings back memories.
-
WOW, how many times in my life I had left "SWARF", and never knew that was what
I was leaving !
is a swarf leaver a Swarfer ?
yes, I just had to look it up.
never heard the word until here on TOOL TALK.
-
Yea, "swarf". I'm not sure that it is even a real word; it's not in my dictionary, and the spell checker doesn't recognize it.
And I'm not even sure what the word means but have heard it used referring to lathe and mill metal "tailings" -- also not in my dictionary.
Well Frank, I guess that I am a real prolific swerfar, but I'm not a tailor.
Ralph
-
It seems the original meaning of swarf was the grit that wore off a grindstone when sharpening cutlery. It has evolved into any metallic debris that isn't supposed to be somewhere (eg swarf in an engine). The aircraft folks use it often to describe filings from manufacture that end up somewhere bad, like in a (clogged) fuel filter. There seems to be a tendency now to use it for stray debris in general these days...
(It has the sound, to me, of a mangled Scottish word..)
Edit: Oxford says mid 16th century: either from Old English geswearf 'filings' or from Old Norse svarf 'file dust'
-
I must have run across the term somewhere, as I already had it cataloged in memory as F.O., or D.F.O., meaning Foreign objects, stuff that doens't belong, or Disastrous Foreign Objects, such as the wiping rag I found in an oil pan one time.
-
Good job, Rusty. Thank you. Yes, that's what I meant. That clarifies things thoroughly. I now need a dictionary like yours.
Les once commented on the apron (a fitted paper plate :) ) I use around my vise to catch valuable silver (and sometimes gold) filings.
These days I use the apron to catch all "swarf" and keep it off the floor. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderswarf001_zps98210dbd.jpg)
On my little old Delta lathe it sometimes piles up after heavy use.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderswarf006_zps144b1434.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderswarf007_zps5133b835.jpg)
-
I like your plate idea Ralph.
dictionary; try using this one on the computor, I keep it in my favorites.
http.//myunjumble.com/
put in your word, click, then click define.
swarf; noun, an accumulation of fine particles of metal or abrasive cut or ground from
work by a machine or grinder.
origin; "old norse"
Frank
-
Worm gears are easy - they are just threaded pieces........
Chilly
-
Find an old toy worn gear drive or Crescent wrench adjusting screw to use as a pattern and cast one. You have to have some parts made from some different material to set it off.
-
It seems the original meaning of swarf was the grit that wore off a grindstone when sharpening cutlery. It has evolved into any metallic debris that isn't supposed to be somewhere (eg swarf in an engine). The aircraft folks use it often to describe filings from manufacture that end up somewhere bad, like in a (clogged) fuel filter. There seems to be a tendency now to use it for stray debris in general these days...
(It has the sound, to me, of a mangled Scottish word..)
Edit: Oxford says mid 16th century: either from Old English geswearf 'filings' or from Old Norse svarf 'file dust'
It's not everyday you learn something as old as this. Old Norse and Old English are rather similar languages. With a little work, if you can read one you can read the other. Nothing Scottish about it. Scottish is actually Gaelic, a version, really of Old Irish. "Swarf" does exist in *Scots Dialect* but Scots Dialect is actually derived from Old English.
Swarf exists in Old English as "gesweorf" from the verb "sweorfan" to rub or to file. So the word has a firm English pedigree. By the 16th Century swarf had the meaning of "dust and grit formed by grinding metal," but in Old English (before 1150) it meant filings.
-
Shown at the bottom left of the picture in reply #501 is the cylindrical part of the worm gear set and the wheel type gear (I don't know their proper names).
I found the cylinder part at an old surplus store and attempted to cut the wheel gear by hand and failed miserably since I couldn't match the pitch nor tooth spacing (again I don't know the correct terminology). Plus the wheel gear must have a concave shape to the teeth compatible with the cylindrical worm gear which can not be achieved with jeweler's saws and files.
I had considered the worm from a crescent wrench but can't match one to a round wheel gear. I even realized that a bolt with regular coarse thread could be used as the worm portion,
but how to match it up with a wheel gear that has to be concave across the grooves?
It becomes readily evident that I don't know much about gears and couldn't even order a set from a professional company since I just don't understand the language of the business --
like pitch, pressure angle,CD, PA, PD, HD, HP and etc., etc., etc.
This is beginning to sound completely incoherent, so it's time for a break (or is it a brake). :shocked: Thank goodness the weekend is here. It is Friday . . . isn't it??
Ralph
-
Maybe some help.
http://www.girdersandgears.com/modelpower.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4PpKuZZT6E
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/CoverPg/Gears.htm
-
Consider the gear system in a "high speed" chalk box.
-
>Worm gears are easy - they are just threaded pieces........
The worm isn't the hard part, the other gear is. The teeth on the matching gear are not just deeper in the middle than the edges, they are also angled to match the diagonal angle you get because the thread on the worm is a spiral. When you combine the two, you get a rather complex inverted helix....
You can drive a normal gear with a worm, but to do it, the worm has to meet it at an angle other than 90 degrees...
The other issue with worms is they work differently than normal gears. Normal (cog) gears have very little friction, the teeth push each other mostly, you can generally assume they have none at all when designing things. Worms on the other hand, slide across each other sideways, you can not ignore the friction. The reason this matters is, when selecting the sizes and ratios for the worm and spur, you have to take into account the relative wear rates of the materials the two parts are made of, and that often plays a part in selecting the sizes used for a certain gear ratio. This is why there are so many different things to specify when you want to buy a worm gear.
> Plus the wheel gear must have a concave shape to the teeth compatible with the cylindrical worm gear which can not be achieved with jeweler's saws and files.
The shape will match the outside edge of a grinding wheel (think dremil) the same diameter as the outer diameter of the worm measured at the pitch angle , when cutting at the pitch angle of the thread on the worm
(The pitch angle is the angle between 90 degrees and a line parallel to the thread on the worm)
Note that this diameter is slightly *bigger* than the regular outside diameter of the worm.
Time to go to the flea and buy some small plastic throwaway toys with battery powered motors, they almost always have a worm and spur on the little motors....(plastic)
pps: Sintered bronze might be easier to make teeth in...
-
Thanks, Les. Those sites are very interesting, informative and helpful - easy to follow. I've bookmarked 'em.
The Youtube page demonstrates why a layman would have difficulty building those items. Damn! That is really something.
I do have a chalk box somewhere in my stuff pile. I'll dig it out.
Whoa, rusty. Yea, that's what I meant - I think? Little did I know - "a complex inverted helix", pitch angle and concave shape and what not.
You are right. It is time to search and scavenge the Flea Market. I will know what I need when I see it.
It's just that verbalizing it is much more difficult than visualizing.
Ralph
-
Might be of interest:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cast-Aluminium-Gears/
-
Just found this today at auction, thought this was an excellent representation of the worm gear.
-
Thanks, Oily. That is an interesting process. I've done some similar to build special parts.
But Didn't know about the repair clay / process.
Yes, John K; that is exactly what I'm looking to accomplish. Good picture, thanks.
Went to the Flea Market yesterday and found all sorts of stuff I wanted but not the gears.
Will try again today.
Ralph
-
Another day at the Flea Market and found all kinds of stuff except the Worm & Gear I needed for the road grader.
It was a very hot day, so I went to the pavilion midway for refreshment. A band was performing in the area where I sat,
and a guitar player paused to replace a broken string. I found that interesting as he quickly replaced the string and proceeded to tune his guitar.
And EUREKA!!! As he turned the thumb screws, I saw Exactly what I'd been looking for --
a guitar tuner with a gear and worm screw all in one compact, sturdy unit just the right size and form for my application.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGraderWormGear006_zps51f36568.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGraderWormGear005_zpsdb41ebdf.jpg)
The guy advised that I could get one at, of course, the local music store, and I ran right down there only to find it closed on Sunday.
First thing Monday morning I was there again and found that they indeed carry guitar tuners -- only in packages of six and they cost a million dollars.
Next music store = same tune.
But at the third one the tech showed me a box full of used / replaced tuners, and said that sometimes the thumb screw breaks off,
and musicians replace all six to have a matched set. He offered to give me a pair - one right hand and one left hand.
I tipped him generously for two sets, and hurried home to see how they might fit the grader.
They will work just fine, are in good scale with the grader and should not be difficult to adapt.
Thanks, everyone for all your ideas and efforts to help. With assistance like yours, this project is destined to succeed.
I'll post pictures as it continues to develop.
Ralph
-
We are proud to be of assistance, Ralph.
-
Hi Ralph, I knew that sooner or later you would find the answer, and the answer came when the man up above decided that you should take a break from the heat.
who would ever think of a "git-box tuner ?" you have sharp eyes to spot the guy using it.
I had been keeping my eyes open, but never spotted anything like that.
and now we will wait for the next operation on the grader, good luck, Frank
-
Thanks, Papaw. I do get motivation, inspiration and valuable assistance from members of the forum.
Isn't it really something, Frank? I spent two eagle-eyed days out in the hot sun, walked 100 miles looking for something,
and when I stopped looking so exhaustively -- it found me.
Those guitar tuners are working out very well. The hand wheel hub fit the gear shaft perfectly,
and they are in perfect scale with the miniature grader.
I can see now by studying them thoroughly that they are indeed complex devices as rusty stated:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2009_zps862d1489.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels2014_zps25eb54b8.jpg)
Now I'll figure out how to mount them on the grader frame so that they can operate as blade raising and lowering mechanisms.
Ralph
-
The hand wheel and gear assemblies mounted nicely on the frame rails.
Next, I'll build and install the blade, blade assembly and turn table and figure out how to hook it all up to result in a functional machine.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGraderWormGear002_zpsc8258adf.jpg)
-
Ralph, I do not mean to rush your project, but my driveway needs leveling before winter.
only kidding, I am watching the progress, and yes, I am smiling.
have a good week-end, Frank
-
A little progress every day. Yesterday I built the frame that will hold the turntable and blade apparatus.
This weekend I'll work on rest of blade and anchors.
Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGradeBladeFrame004_zps41941ef4.jpg)
-
The blade and mounting brackets came together well and quickly.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGradeBladeFrame006_zpsc62a3cc2.jpg)
And it mated together well with the mounting frame.
The turntable rings fit together properly allowing the blade angle to be adjusted and locked. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGradeBladeFrame008_zps4bf2407a.jpg)
-
Looking good, real good, how is your eyesight holding out? I bought a bench magnifier, but has only helped a little, still fumble fingered, *S*.
-
Well, gentlemen, with all the ideas, assistance, referrals, support and encouragement that were given me by members of this forum and my family,
I've about built a miniature horse drawn antique type road grader -- almost. : ) Thanks John K for the idea. It has kept me busy for a while.
There are a few details that need attention and some fine tuning, but I couldn't wait to post progress pictures of it mostly complete.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderfin003_zps35818322.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderfin002_zps9f574bf6.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderfin004_zpsb2b58d16.jpg)
I must say that this was a most challenging project that a month or so ago I regarded as beyond my skill level,
and I erred some and stumbled along the way and found new (to me) fabrication methods and procedures.
Beyond bouts of frustration, I found new thrills and gratification in progressing toward a desirable end.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelsGraderfin005_zps17abf483.jpg)
I'll post an action video demonstrating how the grader functions soon.
And there is yet a major component to be built -- the device to hook up the miniature draft horses that I'm still trying to round up.
-
Another great job Art. What can we talk you into for the next project?
-
Thank you for sharing your creative thinking, skills, and methods. That is a true work of Art :)
It strikes a kindness with me as I grew up watching one (that was modified) used to drag ditches and roads in the oil fields and at the camp. Every year it was effort by all the male type figures in the family. Kids threw sticks and chunks out of the ditches and roads; men operated equipment. I have a story of my grandfather going backwards off a bluff riding the thing.....watched it. Stopped dead still (very suddenly) upon the first good stump.
Congrats on conquering what you thought couldn't be done. Doesn't it feel great?
-
Ralph,
right to the point, WOW.
Frank
-
They work on snow also, but then you need 12 tiny reindeer.....
Beautiful piece :)
-
WOW!! WOW!! WOW!! Amazing!!
-
I'm curious as to the wood species used for the deck. You've outdone even yourself, Ralph. I can't wait for the video.
-
To get hitched up, will need to attach a wooden shaft to that steering arm, about 3/4 of the length of the grader, then a set of double trees with the attending hooks. Art this came out so nice looking, would be a shame to paint it. I do have a pic of a 1/16 scale steam traction engine mostly in brass. heh, heh, Found this pic of a grader, ROAD KING on the plate. I included a second pic that has the original tongue, a wooden 4x6 laying across the front.
-
Sorry to have been gone so long. I have not been myself, for some time now.
I am not entirely sure who I am, even yet.
But a road grader? Of all the standard equipment, the road grader is the one I find coolest of all. To me it marks a higher lever of civilization.
The steel plow may have caused us to live, but the grader got us to town.
There is a small horse drawn grader, almost 1/2 size, sitting at the edge of Happy Camp. I have never passed it without a glance and a soft feeling.
Oh, also,
Your wheels are just rockin!!
I for one would like better shots and more explanation of your drilling and assembly jigs.
yours Scott
-
All that off of some pictures and your memory? Just flat out cool. Very nice job, and way to go on those gears!
Chilly
-
Thanks a lot, everybody. I appreciate your observations and interest in my work - it's so much fun that I should call it play.
If I were younger, I would call it play. Oh, what the heck, I retired so that I could play -- my way -- not work.
First though, Scott, It is so good to hear from you. I have been worried about you knowing that you have had bouts with illness.
I am truly sorry that you have been so under the weather and hope that you continue to recover.
I have always looked to you for the final word on any question / item. You are so well versed in the tool industry (and in many other areas).
I'll try to post more info on the wheel assembly apparatus I employed.
Don't expect anything elaborate. I'm a simple guy and employ some unimpressive methods and devices.
I don't know what's next. Several ideas are on my mind (put there by forum members and others),
Just haven't decided yet. I typically consider "doability" - that is, something within my skill and equipment set,
but, as with the grader, I do tend to push the envelope. So, we'll see what incubates.
Thanks again, everyone for your assistance, pictures, encouragement and recognition.
Yesterday the final touch was added built of Oak as was the standing platform:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGradeDoubleTree004_zps2414f989.jpg)
A comparative scale:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/WheelGradeDoubleTree003_zps6a4aa140.jpg)
Today I'll try to film and post an action video and to round up some reindeer or draft squirrels or something. Ralph
-
Hi, everybody. A short video is up on YouTube. Thanks for watching. Ralph
http://youtu.be/xiIoYGwTtaI?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Hey Ralph
I was sick, and then my wife of 40 years died with no warning. Thought you knew.
Anyway the construction techniques here are really rockin. The brackets and hooks and bolted parts are just jumping hot.
I can't tell if the gauge of the metal strapping approximates the scale, but it looks like it from here. Nice and beefy.
yours Scott
-
Ralph,
as always, I enjoyed the video, watching you demonstrate the road grader makes me
feel that I know you better.
thank you for sharing your great projects, Frank
-
Ralph, very very nice! Thanks for sharing the grader and video with us.
-
Scott,
I am so sorry about your wife passing and that I didn't know.
This will hurt forever. Please take good care of yourself.
We need you, your wisdom and wealth of knowledge.
I don't know about the scale of the beams and braces on the grader.
Materials were just not available, so I used what I found and fabricated what I needed,
It all seems good -- good and robust, so it should hold up well under rough play.
Thanks Frank and bear_man, and you are welcome. I enjoyed documenting this build to share and for posterity.
Ralph
-
Ralph, I ran across this real salesman sample of an old grader on Carol and Larry Meeker's web site.
http://www.patented-antiques.com/Backpages/T-F-S/FARM/misc_farm.htm
-
Hi, Les.
Yes - very nice. Frank (turn nut) had shared that picture with me. Thank you both.
I am impressed and amazed at the intricacy and level of detail of that model.
And wonder how many of those salesman's samples were built and how.
The asking price is incredible.
Ralph
-
I was wondering, a tiny plane is one thing, but what are you going to coat the grader with to keep the brass nice, before it turns black or green?
-
I would propose using renaissance wax. Keeps brass brassy. Made in england, dries hard very fast. Resists fingerprints too. Bottle says "Refined waxes blended to a formula used by the British Museum and restoration specialists internationally to revive and protect valuable furniture, leather, paintings, metals, marble, ivory and many other surfaces both housed and exposed to the weather. Freshens colours, imparts soft sheen."
I don't know all that, but it does work on silver, brass, and copper in my experience.
It isn't easy, kind of like polishing shoes. Its not shiny wax either. But after buffing it stays on well. I would say forever, but I am not that old yet. Use or handling rubs it off in time, but I have made anticlastic bracelets, darkened them, then finished with this stuff. No tarnish years later, even through wearing.
Chilly
-
I don't know what to use, John, but it is already beginning darken / tarnish, and I do want to keep it brassy shiny.
I'll need to buff it up again and then go with Chilly's idea. Thanks Chilly.
Where can I get some of that resistance wax? Ralph
-
Ralph, if you use ebay, use advanced search, put in renaissance wax
over 100 hits show up.
Frank
-
Thanks, Frank. I should have thought of that. Sometimes the obvious escapes me. Ralph
-
Renaissance Wax is a brand name. The wax here is microcrystaline wax. Very good stuff. It's virtually inert, and therefore used by museum curators for the preservation of artifacts. For museum use, it comes in colors, a brown for wooden items, and black for smithed artifacts.
-
Ralph,
For your area try Naja Supply, in Denver. It comes in a little tub, maybe 1-1/4" round and tall, but a little goes a long way. I think 7 or 8 bucks.
If you want me to I can pick up a tub. I am headed down there to Garden of the Gods road at the end of the week. I have some interesting tin snips and a couple of other vintage tools to pick up at goodwill.
For fun, here are the snips:
-
Thanks, Chilly; I'd appreciate it and can meet you anywhere, or invite you over to my house for a visit and a drink.
Let me know when, and I'll keep it chilled and clean house some - if I can (clean house - that is - or for that matter, keep it chilled). Ralph
-
From my shop journal, I'd add that the British Museum found that in preserving leather (as, for instance, in conjunction with metal armor), do not treat leather with neatsfoot oil, even over-coated with wax. "The main cause of leather deterioration [of leather] is Sulfur Dioxide from the air. Lacquer, Cellulose and Acrylic finishes… cannot arrest decay…. Neatsfoot does NOT arrest leather decay. Leather [develops] Sulfuric Acid from Sulfur Dioxide [in the air] and only Potassium Lactate [in a 7% solution] arrests this rot." I'm pretty sure I found this note/quote in a Dover (re)publication about working with vintage harness/horse gear, but I didn't jot down the source in my journal.
I realize that with Art's work preserving leather isn't an issue, but Renaissance Wax's suggestion that one use it for leather jumped out at me — having worked with vintage leather-work off and on for quite awhile.
-
Although Neat's Foot oil has been around and a standard for over a hundred years, basically it sucks. In addition to not protecting the leather, it has a real tendency to rot out the linen thread used in stitching leather together.
As for Renaissance Wax, it's an inorganic microcrystaline wax, and microcrystaline waxes are used by museum conservators -- not for restoration, but for preservation.
-
Heard Mink oil was good for leather & don't use mineral oil?
-
Hi, guys. And thanks. I have recently discovered on this forum methods, manner and material that I have needed.
Thanks, again.
I did notice that some of my stuff (brass) has been darkening / toning over time, and didn't know how to feel about it.
I had heard it said toning was desirable and could denote antiquity.
Then I heard it said that bright and shiny was best.
Where do we stand on that?
Ralph
-
I feel it depends up on how old one is. It seems that men now over the age of 70 + some years feel shiny is the only way. Over-restoration, wire brush the day lights out of it, then shellac or varnish. See this in antique shops too often. I am just over 60, around antiques for years, and feel, clean it up, remove mold, and decay, rust, seal it if necessary, but don't remove detail by polishing the item to death. It has been around 75 or a hundred years, sometimes more, let it show signs of use.
-
over 70 ??? oops, I am over 70, but I still like what I call PATINA, it is like grey/white hair,
it adds class.
you still see people making items out of brass or copper and then they try to give it the
old age look. I believe that most of you have noticed this in shops today.
only my opinion, Frank
-
Art, I think that your creations should retain the natural look of the metal used. Patina is desirable on vintage and antiques.
-
Thanks, gents. I do like "shiny". That makes me over 70 at heart, and I am darn close to it chronologically. :smiley:
After some diversions, I'm back to building miniature tools and thought that some might find this new shiny thing interesting.
This is a sterling silver plane with Ebony tote and knob, brass turn knob and a sharp steel blade.
It was a challenging build in that polished silver reveals highlights as well as every little imperfection.
The Ebony parts carved like brittle stone but polished up like glass. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverampEbonyPlane3Nov-14004_zps1e110959.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/SilverampEbonyPlane3Nov-14003_zps02c1c3d9.jpg)
-
Ralph, that is a very nice plane, I am glad to see that you are still making masterpieces.
that is interesting info on carving ebony.
have a good day, Frank
-
Nice looking plane, good lines. Never knew that about ebony.
-
That's a nice looking plane. I am a little disappointed that there's no drawing. :smiley:
I tried the soldering on burnt wood works well,do you have any more low-buck
tips for me? Thanks
-
Sorry, I was off thread for quite awhile.
I think patina is good to a point, I even add it, although sparingly, to many of my creations (except glass.) It brings out highlites and can help define a piece.
It wouldn't improve that plane any, though. I think it looks beautiful polished. And it is hard to get silver perfect on a flat plane on such a small scale, especially cast, without sophisticated vacuum machinery. Silver is, after all, the most highly reflective surface there is
I don't personally care for wire brushing and other methods of patina removal where material is removed. I think brass can look great when brown. And for those tools that have been varnished after being aggressively cleaned, its not my thing. I don't care for much of the obvious aging, either. Faux aged and painted highlites to give the appearance of age is usually to obvious.
So I am on the fence. When is enough cleaning enough? Usually I proceed slowly, using cleaning oils on wood and weak acids on metal. While cleaning a level recently the brass plate was hard to clean evenly around the screws. I had to unscrew the plate and do the screw heads seperately. Took some time. But, I am not in this to resell. For me, it is done when it looks right. Sometimes I have to put something aside for a bit until I feel good about going forward. But, I always eventually like the result.
And that result, for me, is that I like it to look aged, but like it was very well cared for and has never had damaging use or abuse.
-
Thanks for your thoughts, Chilly. What you have conveyed is most profound - all of it, especially " it is done when it looks right."
Thanks for your informed insight.
By the way, I've missed your thoughts generally on the forum. I hope that you have you been well and will continue to share your thoughts and awareness. Ralph
-
Ralph,
Superb craftsmanship sir. What metal do you cast tools such as the hammers from? I saw earlier in this thread or another thread where you were cutting metal on a scroll saw and soldering it together. What type of metal was that?
Bill
-
Thanks, Couchspring. I tend to include pictures of drawings of new projects so that viewers can get the full story behind the piece and be aware that careful planning is a crucial part of the project And so that I can visualize the piece in three dimensional space before I do any cutting. It also gives me an idea of sequencing and helps avoid costly errors in process. Once I can see something in my mind's eye and have a good notion of what is to be done first, next, and next after that, etc., I jump in and just do it - often without further need to consult the initial plan / drawing.
Remember this one? It was in the planning stages for days (actually, I thought about it for weeks), and I needed multi view scale drawings to implant images dimensionally in my mind's eye before I realized that I could build it. That was a mouth full, but your reference to "no drawing" indicates that you understand the complexities of my fabrication style from idea to unveiling. Thank you. But with this latest project I already had a firm mental image, having built many like it in the past. I think that I could do this model with my eyes closed by now.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5012_zpse030a6fb.jpg)
I do often use a charcoal (burnt) block or a ceramic pad to solder on because they help hold parts pinned or wired in place together and to provide good insulation so that heat is not sunk away from the parts being soldered and to protect my bench top.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Miniaturescraper020_zpsd0b84a23.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Wheels4Grader001_zps77e5fc75.jpg)
-
Thanks Frank.
Thanks John K.
Thanks Bill S. I typically work in brass because dimensional stock is available, affordable and relatively "easy" to work with. And brass polishes up nicely.
Silver is even better - that is, it cuts and solders easily and takes an even better shine, but it is more difficult to find in dimensional sizes. And it is more expensive.
But yet, some projects require so much intricate and intense work building special wax models, rubber molds, plaster molds for lost wax casting that it is hardly worth doing in other than precious metal. And sometimes I work in gold if a client is willing to pay for it. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess2002_zpsb4b4cbdd.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess002_zps29021ad8.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess104001_zps89c9e9fc.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/CastingProcess114016_zpscc2b94cc.jpg)
-
Ralph,
Were the hammers done in silver? What type of forge is that? It doesn't look like it would be too hard to build.
Bill
-
Ralph,
Were the hammers done in silver? What type of forge is that? It doesn't look like it would be too hard to build.
Bill
That's a centrifugal casting machine.
Chilly
-
Correct, Chilly.
These casting machines were used extensively by dentists in the past - before in-office CNC and 3 D machining.
Some are available on ebay now and then.
Yes, those hammers on pages 29, 30 (reply #435) are about 1/3 oz silver - that is 92.5% pure (sterling). In 14 kt gold that would be about $250 today (that's just for the metal). Ralph
-
In addition to dentists, every jewelry caster had those. There are a few different types. I had a few, now just one or two.
I think Ralph's mastered its use.
Chilly
-
Ralph, that plow plane is outrageously wonderful! Absolutely adore it!
-
Thanks, Branson. This model was a most challenging build inspired by Lewill2 here on the forum.
I like how it turned out with a good balance of metal (brass) and wood (Cocobolo).
I didn't happen to have a 1-72 left hand tap nor die as required.
They were special ordered specifically for this project and await their next use - I just can't think of one right now, but I do accept that "one of" projects often call for special tooling.
Here are some more views: Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5015_zps2dae7327.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5014_zpsbbaa6e6e.jpg)
A comparative scale view:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/PlowPlane5007_zps19440399.jpg)
I posted an extensive build log some time ago starting on page 6 - reply #81 of this string and extending through page 8 - reply #110.
And I am now reminded that I had to take a couple diversion breaks during this build, but I have forgotten just how challenging it was,
and I might just try to build another one. Ralph
-
Just when I didn't think I'd be more impressed, I am. This is amazing.
-
Have you ever tried a minutire of a machine. Perhaps a table saw or mill or something along those lines.
-
Have you ever tried a minutire of a machine. Perhaps a table saw or mill or something along those lines.
Maybe an 1842 treadle table saw?
-
Hi, Nolatoolguy. I do think about miniature machines often and have created some:
Hi, Branson. I'll have to try to find some info. / pictures of the 1842 treadle table saw. Ideas?
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/Lathefinished008.jpg)
See action video on youtube:
http://youtu.be/1SrM5Fg0mbs?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
This treadle machine required some coordination to operate.
And, though I had the wherewithal to build it, getting it to run smoothly was another matter. Ralph
Sooo . . . I figured out a way to power it:
http://youtu.be/58aRhhq2JzE?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Art
you've been holding out on us. That lathe and those solenoid engines are awesome.
bill
-
Thanks, Bill. I didn't mean to "hold out". It's just that this is a"tools" forum", and though I have built several engines / machines of sorts, I had not posted them cause I . . . don't know why. I wasn't sure that they would be of interest. Any way, I have built steam engines of many sorts, and I've designed and built many electric solenoid engines that function very like steam engines - except that they are regulated by electric switches vs mechanical valves, etc. And I've discovered how to employ electric solenoids to power the mechanics of various machines. ie:
http://youtu.be/up3TYj5n-TM?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Ralph, we always enjoy your videos, tools, machines, engines, they are all interesting,
and the how you did it makes for interesting reading. thank you for sharing, Frank
-
Hi, Branson. I'll have to try to find some info. / pictures of the 1842 treadle table saw. Ideas?
If Santa comes through, I'll have a book that shows two of these. I got the first volume for
a birthday present, have the next two volumes on Santa's list. Charles Holtzappfel wrote
a wonderful set of books! While the company started by his father is best known for the
lathes they built, it seems they made every kind of tool. And Charles seems to have known
how every trade used them.
If I can get into my old computer, I have something else, and several pictures from various
angles of a salesman sample single end tenoner. I'll see if I can find them.
-
Thanks again, Branson.
Thanks, Frank.
Realizing that I had not documented the miniature lathe well, I went back and did a sketch and took some pictures that will detail the function of this machine.
I found this project challenging, interesting and unique in that it employs no electric motor with a rotating armature to turn the head stock. A linear stroke motion is created by the solenoid
operating very like a steam engine, but by way of an electro magnetic field instead of steam employing electric switching in place of mechanical valves, and it drives a fulcrum mechanism which further drives a reciprocating motion from the moment arm by a thin steel wire that connects through the base to the treadle plate. The rocking treadle then converts the reciprocating action into circular motion through a connecting rod hooked to the crankshaft to turn the flywheel driving the head stock by a belt and stepped pulleys system allowing for rotational speed changes in the conventional way.
I know that that was a mouth full. It is a complex mechanism. Some pictures might make it more clear than words could. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LatheDrawing002_zps156b78b3.jpg)
In the base box are the batteries, solenoid, switch and fulcrum mechanism.
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LatheDrawing2004_zps76ce68a9.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LatheDrawing2006_zps1505ce42.jpg)
-
I've just completed a new project that combines building procedures employed in the past - flat stock fabrication and lost wax casting.
The result is a miniature plane with high relief cast sides silver soldered onto a flat stock sole and other components. Ralph
High relief wax model sides:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LionPlane006_zpse4b31456.jpg)
Cast parts:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LionPlane001_zps8ccdc3bf.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LionPlane011_zpsf612a9c1.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LionPlane013_zps17f64913.jpg)
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/LionPlane2003_zpsfe917073.jpg)
-
Another masterpiece from the master!
-
very nice Ralph,
glad to see the mind is still busy.
-
Very very nice, free hand engraving? The head looks like Kokopelli, another Navajo symbol? Was trying to download some pics to me of some tiny steam engines, made mostly of brass, then my puter gave up. Got an hour figure on these planes?
-
Thanks, Papaw.
Hi, Frank, and thanks. Yes, sometimes I do wish that I could turn "it" off - just for a while, and other times I believe that I have more to do than I have life for.
So I keep going while I can which seems to be much of what I aspire toward.
Hi, John. Actually, this is the opposite of engraving which removes material from a surface.
High relief is the method that the Egyptians used in removing material from around the intended symbol.
And, Yes, I see what you mean. Every work of art is what one sees in it. Some might see a Sphinx, a lion, a Kokopelli, etc.
I am experimenting with engraving, but it is a totally new art to me, and it may be a while before I develop proficiency.
Ralph
-
Saw this and thought of you Art, I know what you mean about not being able to shut it off. I have put a small blackboard in my shop, for the next idea,.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAITO-3-Cylinder-Steam-Engine-T3DR-for-Model-Marine-Free-Ship-from-Japan-/271711218529
-
Hi, John. That's what I need - - - a blackboard in my shop would be a great addition.
I do like small engines and have a nice collection including several that I have built along the way. Ralph
-
are the irons from an exacto knife? pretty cool planes!
-
Hi, couchspring. Yes, those blades work pretty well with some minor adjustment.
Sharpening them and setting a new bevel can be tricky, but they are good blades.
I have also cut and sharpened old hard steel blades. Both work just fine. Ralph
-
Oh Ralph. It wasn't enough for you to make a treadle lathe in miniature form, you had to create a way to set it in motion. You keep up'ing the ante. Just genius. I sure hope those you taught sincerely appreciated the opportunity to learn from you.
-
I appreciate Ralph's post, they are very interesting. also great pictures included in his
write-ups.
blackboard/chalkboard; what looks good in a work shop are old roofing slates,
they already have a hole on them to hang on the wall and do not take up too much space.
many fine people here sharing their idea's.
thank you, Frank
-
To quote Jim C.,
"I like hand planes. They're fascinating tools."
I resemble that sentiment and decided to build a miniature 1/4 scale #4 sterling silver smoothing plane.
I had forgotten just how much of a challenge it was to build a genuine frog with so many operations and tight tolerances at this scale -
not to mention all the other components.
But cabin fever got the best of me, and I just jumped in.
Below is my rendition of a miniature 1/4 scale # 4 silver plane. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/NewSilver4001_zps809afb5c.jpg)
See the documentary construction video on youtube:
http://youtu.be/h_s5GmGlOcQ?list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A
-
Art, cabin fever or no, that is one great looking plane. The screw slot, the kurling, all to scale, so much it is hard to tell how small it is. Now, just one suggestion, laser etch ART across the frog and highlight with red, ala Stanley!
-
Thanks, John. Good suggestion - I'd like to have the where with all to be able to etch or engrave as you suggest.
That would really add the final touch. I'll work on it.
In the mean time, here is a picture to more clearly convey a comparative scale. Ralph
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/NewSilver4007_zpsaa82e8f6.jpg)
-
Hi Ralph, after spending a good part of the day moving snow, and
then having supper, I sat down and watched your latest creation.
thank you sharing, it was relaxing finish to my day. Frank
-
Ralph, your work never ceases to amaze me. The video brought the whole thing
out, from initial casting to, OMG! planing with it.
-
We (wife and I both) always enjoy watching your videos. You motivate me, Ralph.
-
Thanks, gentlemen (and wife). I always appreciate your observations and comments.
"You keep up'ing the ante. Just genius. I sure hope those you taught sincerely appreciated the opportunity to learn from you."
Yes, Oily; I do continue to challenge myself, and sometimes my vision exceeds my grasp.
The problem with up'ing the ante is that the next step appears impossible.
It may be insane passion, but It's what I do to keep from going crazy.
Ralph
-
And now there are two:
(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/flyingtractors1/4%20planes%20two%202%20003_zpsir7nvbyb.jpg)
And the second one was as much a challenge to build as the first. I would have thought that subsequent builds would come more readily.
But not so. This model is so difficult that each one presented its own challenges. There just aren't any short cuts for hand made items.
Ralph
-
WOW!!
-
Wow is right!
-
Wow! Those are incredible. Here is a picture of some vintage miniatures that my brother bought in an auction. I figured they were kid's toys, but now I'm not so sure.
Brads
-
Thanks,oldtools.
Thanks, Plyerman (Bob and sometimes worse).
Thanks for sharing, Brads. Nice. Sometimes little tools are toys, and sometimes little tools are tools.
I like to think of mine as real functional tools with precision moving parts, and I use them in construction of miniature furniture, model airplanes, etc.
Ralph
-
Hello, Art - I have missed you sharing your work in this thread. The wife and I were watching your youtube video on demonstrating the wagon jack. You are blessed with some serious talent, and your narration voice is spot-on. Thank you again for this thread and sharing your talent. Best regards, Derek
-
Thank you, Oily Rascal and others.
First I must express my condolences to Papaw's family, friends and acquaintances. I am sorry that I was so preoccupied when he departed.
Now in way of explanation, I had to take a hiatus to create "stuff" that would pay the rent, groceries, etc. I got hooked on creating jewelry that returned 10X my investment and didn't like the craft but I did the $, and wifey is happier when I do that.
Now I've also been able to purchase TOOLS and fine equipment for the next chapter. I only hope that my passion has not waned and that I still have the disposition, attitude and wherewithal to come back. I am sorry that I gravitated away without proper notice. I am once again searching for ideas that really tickle my fancy.
Thank you for checking in on me when I was gone.
Ralph (Art Rafael)
-
Art, glad to hear from you again, I tried to reach out to you a month or 2 ago but I didn't get any response did your email change?
Les
-
Thanks for reaching out, Les. And sorry about my absence.
No change to that... it still is rljuarros@comcast.net
-
Art, that is beautiful work... for sure! You have a good eye for the finest detail. Thanks for sharing the pix :smiley:
Joe B
-
Thanks, Joe. I will try to keep busy and to post as go. Ralph (Art Rafael)