Tool Talk
What's-It Forum => What's-It Forum => Topic started by: treelady on April 07, 2013, 09:10:54 PM
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I have been trying to identify this IRVIN tool and haven't had any luck. I have some ideas, but I'm not certain. Do you know what it is?
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It's a saw set, used to set the angle of the teeth on a hand saw.
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Ha! How about that! Of all things...a saw tool found by a couple of arborists! I wonder if we could use it on our hand-saws? What does it mean "to set the teeth"? ૅ.ે
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The teeth need to be set at a certain angle for different types of cuts, and they have to be set in an alternating pattern.
When the teeth of a saw are formed from the body, they are in line and the same thickness as the blade immediately behind them. A saw with this configuration is described as having 'no' or '0' set.
To prevent the body of the blade binding and for other enhancements to the cutting action, the teeth can be set (angled out) from the blade. Teeth can be set in several patterns: single-sided set, alternating set or a patterned set. Most Western and Asian handsaws use an alternating set, whereby a tooth is set the opposite direction from the preceding one. Specialized tools like veneer saws or flush-cut saws may be set only to one side. Some hacksaws and machine saw blades have patterned sets that may require specially designed saw sets to create.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_set (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_set)
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WoW!! Thanks! Y'all are great! I thought it was a leather hole punch...Ha!!
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Saws for cutting wet sap filled live wood also tend to have patterned set's, so you kind of have to know what is going on before using a saw set on one.
But..It's the perfect tool to keep around in case you accidently bend a tooth and have to put it back. Using pliers is a good way to ruin a perfectly good saw...
NB The anvil is large on that saw set, so it is for a saw with large teeth, not a carpenter's saw or such...
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treelady
You are EXACTLY at the right place to figure out just what the heck that funny tool is for.
'You done good' the first time.
A couple of pictures and you will probably get an answer and then you, (and the rest of us), will learn something.
There is at least one member here who knows all about one branch or another.
There is hardly ever a real 'stumper'. (you like that one tree lady?)
Welcome from Kentucky
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NB The anvil is large on that saw set, so it is for a saw with large teeth, not a carpenter's saw or such...
Just curious, how do you deduce the size of this set, without anything in the pics for scale?
Just wondering, as to my eyes, it looks to be about the same size as all the other saw sets I've seen, to be operated by squeezing with one hand. Most of the sets I have laying around have similar sized anvils, in relation to the "piston" that actually moves and 'sets' the tooth. I have seen one-man saws with larger teeth than normal, but aren't they still carpenter saws?
If it is larger, would it still work on the large two-man saws used to fell timber, or would that be more suited to a hammer-type saw set? or a sawyers anvil and hammer?
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Worth looking back at this thread: http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=126.msg573#msg573 (http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?topic=126.msg573#msg573) and looking at the link to the Saw Set Collectors Resource (http://members.acmenet.net/~con12a/ (http://members.acmenet.net/~con12a/)).
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Are you telling me someone would take this tool and bend every individual tooth one at a time on a saw? Holy cow
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Yes. That is the correct way to keep a saw working properly. And in addition you would also file each tooth to make them cut properly.
Too bad modern consumers will just go buy a new saw if theirs is dull! That is if they even know it is dull!
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Use a good old disston handsaw that was sharpenend and set properly then go use a brand new saw you buy at the big box store. There is no comparison in the ease an quality of cut.
I have several antique handsaws I use regularly an then a few new ones but I prefer the old ones over the new.
It may take time to keep a antique saw sharp but its well worth it.
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It may seem absurd to "set" each tooth at the appropriate angle, and then "file" each tooth in order for the teeth to have the maximum "cutting capacity."
In my experience, sending a good handsaw (mine are mostly Disston saws) to be re-sharpened turns out bad every time. Lucky for me, I sent off a few saws that I didn't care about in order to see how well someone could repair the saw teeth. I'll stick to trusting in a Stanley Pistol Grip saw set, a few good files, and the will to have a great cutting saw!
All hand tools require a lot of attention and precision......
cheers,
bird.
Are you telling me someone would take this tool and bend every individual tooth one at a time on a saw? Holy cow
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Are you telling me someone would take this tool and bend every individual tooth one at a time on a saw? Holy cow
When you set the kerf you set every other tooth then turn the saw around and set the other teeth then file the same way bob w.
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Are you telling me someone would take this tool and bend every individual tooth one at a time on a saw? Holy cow
Yep. There are a few saws that are not set, or set only on one side so as not to mar the wood when flush cutting dowels and such. There has to be room for body of the saw blade to move without rubbing or binding.
I've found a couple of shops that do very well on saw sharpening. One is closed now. The fellow who ran it (probably about 90 now if he's still around) talked about when he was a kid (it had been in the family for 3 generations) every Friday or Saturday contractors would bring in every one of their saws to be sharpened and set, and pick them up Monday morning. Viet-Namese carpenters sharpen and set their own, usually a couple of times a week. Obviously from before the days of circular saws.
The difference between a sharp saw and a newly purchased saw is astonishing. Brand new saws just aren't really sharp.
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I agree with the fact that a new saw isn't that sharp. I don't think plane blades, chisel blades, or saws are accurately "honed" to the best of their ability.
But, it takes a LOT of time to sharpen a saw correctly. I've always had problems with skipping a tooth, by accident. That can throw everything off! I truly admire anyone that can sharpen various blades. It's an acquired skill.
cheers
bird.
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I truly admire anyone that can sharpen various blades. It's an acquired skill.
cheers
bird.
I agree, I know a guy who can sharpen almost anything very quickly an to such a sharp point to. It's amazing. I can sharpen saws an stuff but Ime not to good at chisels.
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My father was the best I have ever seen at sharpening tools, he just had a knack. He could get it so sharp that just handling it the wrong way would end you up in the hospital quick and no questions to ask.
Another talent that I never took advantage of learning from him that is now gone forever, I dont think there is anyone anywhere that could sharpen like he could.
P.S Im not just saying that cause he was my father, its true!
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I expect ScottG can sharpen anything to an edge that is superior to anything known to mankind.
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I can sharpen saws an stuff but Ime not to good at chisels.
I expect ScottG can sharpen anything to an edge that is superior to anything known to mankind.
If you are not ScottG and want a sharp chisel (or plane iron), one of these guides from Lee Valley and a waterstone are pretty much foolproof!
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Woodworking/Sharpening/05m0901_dsp3.jpg)
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=51868&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=51868&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1)