A couple of weeks ago I started cleaning up a Champion Forge and Blower drill press (post drill) which I've had laying around for a few years. Then I ran across a posting on your website by Oily Rascal from 3 or 4 months ago, and his machine looks almost identical to mine (same patent number, and other casting marks). Oily found a "107" mark on his which he thought is the model number. My first photo shows what I think is the model number on mine. I think it looks like "NO. 197". The second photo is my drill press laying horizontal on my shop floor. Except for the chuck and belt pulley it looks pretty close to what Oily has. I have a couple of smaller post drills to clean up and they have the same type of chuck as my big drill. Oily's is the first taper chuck I've seen. Oily's drill has a flat belt drive pulley, and mine has a cast iron twin V-belt pulley (third photo). There was some discussion in Oily's post about belt pulleys being after market modifications to what were originally hand crank drills. My pulley is marked "DUAL DUTY A18B184." I wonder if the dual duty reference means it was meant to be both a fly wheel for hand cranking, and a belt pulley for power drive. The pulley is 18 inches in diameter, which is probably about the size of a flywheel for this drill, and it may weigh 30 or 40 lbs. I don't have a Champion catalog, but some old hardware dealer catalog MWTCA reprints I have from the late 1800's indicate you could order belt pulley options instead of flywheels on these drills for $5 extra. A "counter shaft" (longer pulley shaft?) option was also available for $12. I'm thinking a longer shaft was probably necessary for belt adjustment. I think mine as well as Oily's has a longer horizontal shaft than what was used for flywheels. A Green River post drill similar in size to mine (drills to center of a 20 inch circle, weight 250 lbs.) was priced at $70 in 1880. It seems reasonable to think that these big expensive post drills were probably used in production shops that had belt drive available for all of their machinery. If you had a two or three man blacksmith shop, you could opt for the less expensive hand crank option. Maybe it's of interest how the belt pulley on my drill clamps onto the drive shaft (fourth photo). The first thing on the shaft is a collar held by a set screw. Taking it off does not seem to affect attachment of the pulley. I have not tried to move the pulley along the shaft yet, but it looks to be clamped tight by a split center piece that is tightened by 3 recessed Allen Head bolts (one is missing from my drill).
There was also some discussion in Oily's post about how his missing auto feed worked. My fifth photo is the auto feed set-up on my drill. I've never one of these things in action, so I'm only guessing at actual operation. There's a brass cam on the main drive shaft which attaches to a push rod, and the push rod attaches to one end of what I'm calling a bell crank. The other end of the bell crank has a pawl attached which pushes the top mounted horizontal auto feed gear by jumping from tooth to tooth. The push rod can be adjusted with a thumb screw along the length of a slot in the bell crank which seems to me is a feed speed control. The sixth photo is a rotation of the fifth photo so you're looking down from the top of the drill for a better orientation of how it would look in use. The seventh photo is at the end of the shaft which attaches on the other end to the 4 bar hand feed. The photo shows the worm gear that drives the auto feed gear. The knobby looking thing at the very end of the shaft is what I would call a rocker cam that engages the auto feed. When you use this cam to force the toothed collar (photo eight) onto the gear, the auto feed engages, and the hand feed can no longer be used. The toothed collar is spring loaded and snaps back to disengage the auto feed when the rocker cam is moved to release it. I suppose the pawl could also be flipped back to stop the auto feed, but I think the hand feed would still be inoperable as long as the auto feed gear was engaged.
The auto feed is fun to play with, but looks pretty Rube Goldberg to me. I'm curious to see if it works, but since they didn't survive to modern drill presses, maybe not too well. Then again, it has so many parts that it was probably pretty expensive to make, and may be of little use except at hand cranked speeds.
(http://www.papawswrench.com/vboard/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5234.0;attach=14167;image)
Whoa. You'd definitely want to roll up your sleeves and trim your beard before operating that thing.
My thanks to Papaw for posting my email for me, and offering to help with registration. I didn't have anything against registering, but I'm not especially computer literate, or very good in forums. I always have problems with picture posting and in general don't have much of interest to offer. Since it was 114 degrees inside my shop this afternoon, I had a little more patience to sit in the house at the computer.
My drill does have the same gear box cover that Oily shows. In some of my pictures it had been removed to clean the gears. It looks like there's still plenty of places to bruise and break fingers if you're not paying attention though.
Oily, I don't know much about these things. Mine just has a few more pieces than yours, and it sounded like you might be interested in seeing them. I'll be glad to chat with you and show you how dumb I am.
When you use this cam to force the toothed collar (photo eight) onto the gear, the auto feed engages, and the hand feed can no longer be used"
Oily, I think the term you are looking for is Taper Lock Bushing and Sheave.
It has the main drive pulley outside and could have been run with an old hit and miss, or any number of other engines on the farm before electricity came in.
That's some creative thinking on the tool to remove the table. I search daily for a wrench, and I'm not even certain there was a wrench specifically for the job...but I hunt.
How do you insert quotes in your posts showing what you are responding to?Copy the post, paste it into the original thread, highlight it, then click the 'quote' icon. It puts the [ quote ] tags around the selected text.
It ends up looking like this.
EDIT: Attached are a couple pics of the drill in the shop.
QuoteMy 2 cents on the double V-belt pulley/sheave.
I might have the wrench what size is the set screw head?
QuoteI might have the wrench what size is the set screw head?
7/16" square head. 7/8" diameter counterbore ( outside wrench diameter). I really appreciate your offer to look. If your wrench is a keeper, just a good photo would be appreciated.