Tool Talk

Woodworking Forum => Woodworking Forum => Topic started by: jimwrench on July 02, 2012, 04:30:03 PM

Title: Stanley 104
Post by: jimwrench on July 02, 2012, 04:30:03 PM
 Got a Stanley 104 and a 6 inch shave at auction today. Shave is unmarked but I like its shape.
The plane will clean up but the end is broken off lever cap.
Anyone know if Liberty Bell lever cap from any transitional will interchange ? cap is 2 1/8 wide . Stanley 127 cap is right width but too long. Don't really do transitionals so have no others to compare.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Nolatoolguy on July 02, 2012, 05:48:40 PM
I like the spokeshaves handles as well. I could imigane the fit well in your hand. the ones I have all have longer handles and arent ball shaped. Very nice.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Branson on July 03, 2012, 08:48:50 AM
Anyone know if Liberty Bell lever cap from any transitional will interchange ? cap is 2 1/8 wide . Stanley 127 cap is right width but too long. Don't really do transitionals so have no others to compare.

Recently sold:

Stanley # 104  Liberty Bell Steel Smooth Plane  The #104 was first issued in 1876 to commemorate the Centennial.  It was discontinued in 1919 after the war.  WWI that is.  It has a steel body.  From the cutter logo we can assume this is a type 2 and dates from before 1907.  It has been tastefully, and carefully cleaned and rehabbed.  It looks great.

Fine  . . . . . . $165.00   

Might be worth your while to try to find another liberty cap.

That's a lovely drawknife!  the handles remind me of those on the 4" Pexto drawknives.  At that length of blade and the light construction of the drawknife, I'd call it a carriage makers drawknife.  I have a 6" carriage makers, and it is one of my favorites.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Branson on July 03, 2012, 08:52:20 AM
Here's the scoop:

Cutter and back iron are not interchangeable with other Stanley planes (except the # 105). The cap design was also used in the Liberty Bell transitional planes i.e. 135 but they are not interchangeable. The 135 has a longer lever cap. If you need spare parts you can only source them from another 104 or 105.

Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: jimwrench on July 03, 2012, 04:01:34 PM
  Heres a photo of 104 with a little cleaning and some paste wax. It will go on the shelf til a good lever cap is found..
Thanks for the info Branson. I'll wait for a 104 for lever cap.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: scottg on July 04, 2012, 11:40:44 AM
Nice cleanup!!
 Since you probably aren't gong to be using the plane much, just let it rest on the shelf until the dead body of another comes along with a decent cap.
  I expect we'll all be on the lookout for a loose cap.

 CE Jennings, is who I think came up with that drawknife design.  More, and the older looking ones, are often marked Jennings.   Several others copied the design,  4 and 6" blades.
  I bet yours is really a Jennings, except left plain for a hardware store sticker.
   Mostly you see them with one handle missing. :)
 yours Scott
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Bill Houghton on July 20, 2012, 09:49:29 PM
I like the spokeshaves handles as well.

Terminology: spokeshaves are more like planes: the cutting iron is removable and has something that limits the "bite" of the iron.  What Jim got is a drawknife, basically an open cutting edge with handles.  In trained hands, a drawknife will do very rough cuts and fine cuts, while a spokeshave is limited to fine cutting.  In untrained hands, though, or on bad days, a drawknife will make disastrous cuts that ruin your work.

Drawknives and spokeshaves are complementary tools, like jack and smoothing planes: the first (in each case) will get the work close to right, the second does the final adjusting.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Branson on July 21, 2012, 08:42:42 AM
  I bet yours is really a Jennings, except left plain for a hardware store sticker.
   Mostly you see them with one handle missing. :)
 yours Scott

That's what I don't like about the pattern -- the  handles pull off so easily.  And the tangs are too short. 
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: jimwrench on July 21, 2012, 08:08:11 PM
 Right on the terminology Bill. I know better. my bad.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: scottg on July 24, 2012, 10:48:31 AM
a drawknife will do very rough cuts and fine cuts, while a spokeshave is limited to fine cutting.  In untrained hands, though, or on bad days, a drawknife will make disastrous cuts that ruin your work.

Drawknives and spokeshaves are complementary tools, like jack and smoothing planes: the first (in each case) will get the work close to right, the second does the final adjusting.

  A drawknife generally has 3 ways to work it.
 1 Bevel up is mostly uncontrollable, but it hogs off stock like crazy.
 2 If you flip it over and work with the bevel down, you have infinitely more control.
 3 If you start your drawknife work at the very corner of the blade and slide across as you pull, you get a shearing cut that makes the most controlled cut of all and very smooth cutting.
  Drawknives come in sizes from the smallest 3" blade to 12" and more for ships work etc.
Here are two of my small sized carving knives. The first an old joiner blade I reworked and the second a Charles Buck blade I got one time.
  (Oh, if you only drill a pilot hole in handles for a push on tang, then heat just the tag to cherry red, and burn the tangs in, they won't pull off accidentally. Industry never did this, it takes too long)
 (http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/dknife2.jpg)
(http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/dknife3.jpg)


 Spokeshaves come in sizes and weights. The smallest having less than a 1" blade and the largest coming around 6". The big ones bite hard and the little ones fit onto lots of places!! 
  (http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/shavemoo1.jpg)
(http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/shavemoo2.jpg)
(http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/lilshave3.jpg)

 yours Scott
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: stanley62 on November 19, 2017, 07:40:08 PM
Well... I had to look back a few years to find Jimwrench's post on a S104 that he needs a lever cap.  Wish I could say that I found one.
What I did find is a S105 with the same problem...  Looks like the chip breaker is correct (at least to me) and the gismo that goes thru the blade to mate with the adjuster is there. 

  Now looking for S104 and S105 lever caps!!!

 Jim
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: coolford on November 21, 2017, 02:43:54 PM
I need a handle just like the ones on the spoke shave in the first post.  Mine is a C E Jennings and fine except the missing handle on one side.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: jimwrench on November 21, 2017, 03:14:04 PM
 Wonder of wonders. A 104 lever cap was listed on ebay today and it is now headed my way. The end of a 3 or 4 year search.I did hesitate 3 nanoseconds before buying it.
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Bill Houghton on November 21, 2017, 05:39:25 PM
Wonder of wonders. A 104 lever cap was listed on ebay today and it is now headed my way. The end of a 3 or 4 year search.I did hesitate 3 nanoseconds before buying it.
Why did you wait so long?
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: Yadda on November 21, 2017, 08:31:49 PM
Wonder of wonders. A 104 lever cap was listed on ebay today and it is now headed my way. The end of a 3 or 4 year search.I did hesitate 3 nanoseconds before buying it.
Why did you wait so long?

 :grin:
Title: Re: Stanley 104
Post by: stanley62 on November 22, 2017, 07:47:13 PM
Hope I don't have to wait 3 years to find one for the 105...
Jim