Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: lptools on March 01, 2018, 04:58:33 PM
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Hello, I have some Ridgid Pipe Taps for sale on ebay. Potential buyer asked if they could be used for black iron pipe, and for galvanized pipe. All are NPT sizes, I am guessing the answer would be yes, but I need to be sure. Any help? Thanks, Lou
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Yes, you should be able to use them on both types of pipe without a problem. (assumes user lubes, cleans, backs off, etc.)
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Hello, p_toad. Thanks for the confirmation!!!!!!!! Regards, Lou
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I need a 1 inch pipe tap. I need a good American high speed steel one. That would be a 1-11-1/2 inch NPT. I work on small gas engines and need to clean of the threads on the exhaust port outlet sometimes.
EvilDr235
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I need a 1 inch pipe tap. I need a good American high speed steel one. That would be a 1-11-1/2 inch NPT. I work on small gas engines and need to clean of the threads on the exhaust port outlet sometimes.
EvilDr235
I would use a chaser. I'd use a die for threading bare pipe.
Chilly
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Hello, Chilly. I use a Craftsman Re-Threading Die Set for cleaning up small bolts/studs, 1/4-20 thru 1/2- 13. Anything bigger than that I use whatever bolt dies I have here. I use taps for internal thread chasers when needed. Whenever I remodel the occasional bathroom or kitchen, I always run into the troublesome TEE in the wall, usually galvanized, and I clean up the rusty/slimy internal threads with a pipe tap. My question is, are there dedicated internal thread chasers, for bolt & pipe sizes? Thanks, Lou
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Hello, Chilly. ...... My question is, are there dedicated internal thread chasers, for bolt & pipe sizes? Thanks, Lou
Inquiring minds want to know.
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you might want to check places like
http://www.victornet.com/
or
https://www.zoro.com/
I have no direct association with them except good service on my orders.
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in bolt hole, I use a bottoming tap.
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The question is if there is 'chaser' for NPT holes.
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sorry leg17, I saw your request for bolt & pipe.
MSC has listings for pipe thread chasers.
google MSC and check for pipe thread chasers.
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Hello, Chilly. I use a Craftsman Re-Threading Die Set for cleaning up small bolts/studs, 1/4-20 thru 1/2- 13. Anything bigger than that I use whatever bolt dies I have here. I use taps for internal thread chasers when needed. Whenever I remodel the occasional bathroom or kitchen, I always run into the troublesome TEE in the wall, usually galvanized, and I clean up the rusty/slimy internal threads with a pipe tap. My question is, are there dedicated internal thread chasers, for bolt & pipe sizes? Thanks, Lou
Sorry for the late reply. The easy answer is yes, there are pipe taps in all sizes.
The harder thing is finding sizes much larger than 1/2" or 3/4".
In fire sprinklers the smallest steel pipe we use is 1", and we thread 1"-2" regularly. Most every building has at least one 2-1/2", 4", or larger thread at the FDC.
We dont tap much. I have up to 1" pipe tap handy, and I thinkmi have av1-1/4" and 1-1/2" somewhere.
For re-cutting old threaded fittings I think I would try making a tap. Take a pipe nipple and file some v shaped grooves in the threads and perpindicular to the threads. Drill a 1/2" hole a few inches from the pipe end to put a rod through. Harden the pipe as much as you can. I would think that a schedule 80 (maybe aseamless A106) would do the job.
I'll draw what I'm talking about and post it.
Chilly
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sorry leg17, I saw your request for bolt & pipe.
google MSC and check for pipe thread chasers.
I googled.
All they list are chasers for pipe OD threads.
Were you able to find 'chasers' for internal NPT holes like the OP was looking for?
All I have ever used or seen used are normal pipe taps.
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leg17, I should have read it through the 1st time, I just went back and checked, did not find chasers for ID, but their ID taps are flat bottom like a bottoming tap.
I see no problem chasing threads with these. I have used them on cleaning old elbows.
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In a past life i did a lot of steel pipework manifolds that were manufactured to fit then Galvanised. All threaded outlets on the manifolds had to have the threads re-cut to remove the Zinc build up from the galvanising process. Hence the collection of BSP taps 1/8" to 2". The threads were easier to clean out if they were heated gently before the tap was run in & out of the fitting several times.
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In a past life i did a lot of steel pipework manifolds that were manufactured to fit then Galvanised. All threaded outlets on the manifolds had to have the threads re-cut to remove the Zinc build up from the galvanising process. Hence the collection of BSP taps 1/8" to 2". The threads were easier to clean out if they were heated gently before the tap was run in & out of the fitting several times.
I would 6hest t6hemmu
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I would 6hest t6hemmu
???????????????
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I would 6hest t6hemmu
Nothing 6heeds like 6hest, right?
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Translation please? I'm not playing dumb, it just comes naturally, Lou
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Translation please? I'm not playing dumb, it just comes naturally, Lou
If you're responding to mine, I was attempting a pun on "nothing succeeds like success."
I'm thinking Chilly had his fingers on the wrong part of the keyboard and didn't realize it before posting. But, you know, ya can't just leave something like that sitting there; gotta do something.
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Don't take offense at our fun, Chilly ! We know about your troubles with your hands and fingers.
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Where's Aunt Phil with "I Hate puns"?? :-)
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Ugh. Nothing worse than mistakenly trying to crank an NPT fitting into a BSP threaded hole. For each diameter, the thread pitch differs by only one or one-half tpi. By the time you realize something is wrong, everything is bound up tight. And leaking like a sieve.
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I know , nothing like an ABC when you meant to have a 123
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In a past life i did a lot of steel pipework manifolds that were manufactured to fit then Galvanised. All threaded outlets on the manifolds had to have the threads re-cut to remove the Zinc build up from the galvanising process. Hence the collection of BSP taps 1/8" to 2". The threads were easier to clean out if they were heated gently before the tap was run in & out of the fitting several times.
I would 6hest t6hemmu
I've no idea what that says.
I would say that we would heat up the galvanizing and wire brush it out or off. We would use old wire brushes for cleaning copper fittings. Cut them off and put them in a drill. Cleans the galvanizing right off to the metal.
I once got a piece of pipe back that had been hot dipped. It was an 8" × 12' or so long piece. It had been fabbed with a flange on one end, but the shop had threaded the flange on instead of welding one on. The galvanizing melted all the teflon pipe dope off the threads. All pipe threads have a little helix shaped tunnel at the top of the male thread and the bottom of the female thread. Pipe dope fills thst spot.
It wouldn't hold water. I spent a couple of hours with a 1/4" cold chisel and some lead wool packing that thread. It held the 200 psi test.
Chilly