Tool Talk
Classic Power Tools => Classic Power Tools => Topic started by: Twilight Fenrir on June 04, 2017, 07:09:35 PM
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Well, I finally got to go back down to the place I got my drill press from, and pick up some more goodies :3 The two I'm most excited about, are my Edwards no. 10 Aligator shear, which is a hand-operated shear capable of cutting 4" x 3/4" flat stock, and what this topic is about, my new power hacksaw! :D
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170604_111547_zpsqzguxpeg.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170604_105414_zps6lb15yyc.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170604_111554_zpsevksnxyg.jpg)
This baby is dirty, and most of the paint is coming off... but don't let it fool you, like the drill press, this machine is nearly immaculate. I found bits of yarn stuffed in all of the oil wells to keep horrible out of them. Everything turns freely by hand, except the main shaft, which I need to use a lever to make turn just because of the amount of stuff it does. But it does turn smoothly.
The flatbelt is completely missing on this machine, so I'll have to do a teensy bit of guess work on it. There's a V-belt on the side that will need replacing. And the lever that throws the awesome Frankenstein-esque switch is broken, but looks easily welded. Oh, and there's a little nob on a special threaded piece for selecting drive speed that sheared off, but this will be a very easy piece to fabricate as well.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170604_180607_zpsq9lqbvsg.jpg)
I really hope the original motor works, as it's one of the coolest looking motors I've ever seen. It's also 3-phase, so I'm extra glad I put in the work to run 3 phase through my shop when I got my press, and I thought ahead enough to leave the system expandable for more machinery to be easily added n.n
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170604_112639_zpss6q4hbo7.jpg)
This thing is insanely complex, it has a ton of moving parts, and a dozen means of adjustment on it... but, luckily, over on OWWM they have the original owner's manual posted for it, complete with parts list, and operation instructions! :D
It's the fastest hacksaw I've ever heard of... it has 3 different speeds, 50spm, 85spm, and 125 spm. That's 2 strokes a second! o_o To support this, it has a coolant system built in, which I've never seen before either. It also had 3 different pressure settings for how hard the saw presses against the stock. It IS capable of cutting angles, but the vise needs to be swapped out for a different one to do so... I'll have to see if I can find one, otherwise, I might have to try to make my own.
Finally, I'll have a tool capable of making clean, accurate cuts in RR rail to make all the tooling I've wanted to!
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Here's a slightly newer version of my model cutting at what I assume is top speed... lookit that thing go!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mhBAElSUj0
I don't know why he's not using the coolant system... And the manual explicitely says NOT to use oil when cutting, because that's the coolants job... but, maybe his pump is busted or something...
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I have a #3 Keller that is slow but cuts straight blades last a long time after they get tungsten carbide embedded in the teeth. You are gonna love that saw!
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I have a #3 Keller that is slow but cuts straight blades last a long time after they get tungsten carbide embedded in the teeth. You are gonna love that saw!
Yeah, I'm really excited to get it going. It's hard, though, because I have a lot I need to get done in the next month, and can't really spare the time for the saw... But I still am gonna X3
Got to thinking about it... I live in Northern Minnesota, and my shop is unheated... If I use water soluble oil like the manual says, it's gonna freeze... Any good alternatives that won't? It gets down to -40F here in winter... I don't expect to be using it at these temps, but not freezing and cracking my machine would be nice...
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I use a little antifreeze in mine but would not help at -40! C or F (as it is the same)
Does it have a drain cock on the reservoir or a plug you can remove and put on in?
My coolant, some water, some dawn dish washing detergent, some antifreeze, some old water pump lube (additive for cars back in the? 40-60's) No idea of the ratios cause I've added a little more water, soap and antifreeze since I cleaned it all out in? 2000? It slimed up using a tool cool mixture.
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I would suggest that you look into Glycol.
at work, we used it in heat exchanger loop systems, it will not freeze and also acts as a lubricant.
if you know of a good industrial supplier, ask them what they think of the idea and what they have to offer.
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I would suggest that you look into Glycol.
at work, we used it in heat exchanger loop systems, it will not freeze and also acts as a lubricant.
if you know of a good industrial supplier, ask them what they think of the idea and what they have to offer.
Yeah, we have glycol at Lowe's where I work. It's for boiler systems, so it has anti-corrosion additives. I've been trying to do some research, and there's a lot of people who say 'its a bad idea', but their criticism is speculative... A few people chime in and say they run a glycol mix and everything works fine.
Another popular discussion is RV antifreeze. It turns to goo, and will freeze at lower temprratures, but it doesn't expand when it does so. It doesn't have much in the way of thermal absorption though. So it may not be an effective coolant.
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I can't see your pump on the saw my Keller has a 2 vane pump, on the order of a very old oil pump design seen on 4 cylinder Chevys in the 1920 You might take it apart and check yours clean it up good oil it as needed. I did have to clean mine and replaced the springs as they were rusted. If I don't use it for a few months I'll have to prime it but other than that it's been really good!
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I can't see your pump on the saw my Keller has a 2 vane pump, on the order of a very old oil pump design seen on 4 cylinder Chevys in the 1920 You might take it apart and check yours clean it up good oil it as needed. I did have to clean mine and replaced the springs as they were rusted. If I don't use it for a few months I'll have to prime it but other than that it's been really good!
I haven't gotten 'round to looking at the coolant pump much yet... I'm dreading cleaning the basin out :P
But, I got an hour or two to puts with it today... After throwing half a can of PB blaster at it, I can now turn the entire saw by hand quite easily. I didn't think it would turn so freely!
I welded the tang back onto the 3-blade switch, and cleaned up the contacts. I then wired in an extension cord to test the motor. plugged it in, flipped the switch, and it turns smooth as silk <3 Has to be the quietest motor I've ever seen. I'm so glad for that, because I love that beautiful old motor, and the almost as-awesome switch. I really didn't want to have to replace them.
I want to get all the loose paint off the machine. I normally use a cup wheel in an angle grinder to clean my old tools, but that usually takes away the brown oxide too, and I don't want to do that on this machine... Other than being patient and removing every piece by hand, any suggestions how I might best accomplish this?
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as for the folks that say Glycol is a bad idea, I would question if they had tried it, or is it just speculation ?
what if any, did they give for a reason thinking that it is bad.
keep your ears open for someone that has an older saw that is in use in colder areas, to see what they use.
by the way, thanks for the video site, I spent some time watching many different saws in action.
yours looks like an impressive monster. and glad for you that you had the motor running, that is one item
to cross off the "if-list".
if your tank is the open type, maybe just spray it with a good penetrant, let it set, wipe it good and then spray
simple green, and do the same, set, wipe dry, but do not try to run the pump while cleaning the tank, the pump
might not like those cleaners. "just a thought"
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as for the folks that say Glycol is a bad idea, I would question if they had tried it, or is it just speculation ?
what if any, did they give for a reason thinking that it is bad.
keep your ears open for someone that has an older saw that is in use in colder areas, to see what they use.
by the way, thanks for the video site, I spent some time watching many different saws in action.
yours looks like an impressive monster. and glad for you that you had the motor running, that is one item
to cross off the "if-list".
if your tank is the open type, maybe just spray it with a good penetrant, let it set, wipe it good and then spray
simple green, and do the same, set, wipe dry, but do not try to run the pump while cleaning the tank, the pump
might not like those cleaners. "just a thought"
The people who were saying it was a bad idea were speculating... There were a number of concerns raised, from corrosion, to not being a good enough coolant, and toxicity... I just remembered I have 2 or 3 gallons of WD-40 I picked up when we clearanced them out at work for $1, I wonder how that would work, lol. I used to use WD-40 for drilling
Yeah, it's an open design. It's just not the easiest thing to reach around in. And trying to scoop out the solids will be interesting.... I'll manage, but it's gonna be the most onerous job for what I have to do.
Ordered a new belt from McMaster Carr this morning, $20 shipped, not bad at all!
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Is this your blade? Any idea of the size? It reminds me of some my neighbor and i picked up from an old hardware store that was closing shop. Love the looks of that machine. :cool:
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A kids sand scoop works good if they are not rusted together in the bottom. If they have rusted then a long chisel and small hammer. I don't think wd40 will be good it evaporates pretty fast. mcmaster carr and msc carried Starrett blades they were not to expensive either. 12 or 14 will fit mine, I've got a finer tooth blade for steel and courser ones for aluminum, damn if I can remember the # of teeth per inch
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Is this your blade? Any idea of the size? It reminds me of some my neighbor and i picked up from an old hardware store that was closing shop. Love the looks of that machine. :cool:
Yep :P Mine is pretty shot, too... The blade that's on there is 14" x 1" x .050, a Nicholson 10TPI. My saw appears to accept just about any width of blade, though. The instruction manual seems to indicate that a 6tpi blade is the most useful... I guess it depends on what I'm cutting. I expect to be cutting a lot of RR rail on it, nice heavy solid stock, so a courser tooth is preferable. Having a finer tooth blade on hand wouldn't be a bad call if I decide to cut tubing.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/blade%20guide_zpsprb1i55x.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170606_201918_zpsppdaofii.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170606_201930_zpssehwpuua.jpg)
Thanks :D I'm a pretty big fan of it already.
A kids sand scoop works good if they are not rusted together in the bottom. If they have rusted then a long chisel and small hammer. I don't think wd40 will be good it evaporates pretty fast. mcmaster carr and msc carried Starrett blades they were not to expensive either. 12 or 14 will fit mine, I've got a finer tooth blade for steel and courser ones for aluminum, damn if I can remember the # of teeth per inch
It's a decently solid mass down there, but poking it with a flat-head screwdriver seems to knock it loose well enough. I looked at it more closely when I went to go look at the blade, and it's more accessable than I thought it would be. So I shouldn't really have a problem with it. But, I'm gonna get off the flakey paint before I do any cleaning.
I didn't realize WD-40 evaporated :P
I'll poke about for blades. Amazon has Starret blades that will fit, and they're about the same price as the ones from McMaster Carr.... but, if I had thought about it when I ordered my belt, I could have saved some shipping. Oh well... I know my local steel yard had power hacksaw blades when I was there last, I'll have to check on sizing and price... Maybe P_toad will have some for me :P
What surprises me is, there doesn't seem to be a way for the coolant to get back down to the pump to cycle through again... I was expecting a drain hole or valley to let the coolant below the cutting table to go back to the sump, but I don't see one. Now, it may very well just be clogged and covered in rust-shavings. But, I did scrape at what I would have thought the obvious place would be for it
I also don't see a drain hole for the main gearbox. It's supposed to be full of 3/4 gallon of heavy gear oil. The case is dry, so someone got the old oil out, but I can't figure out how o_o Maybe they pumped it out.... In any case, I managed to shift through all 3 gears today, and the saw turns at all three speeds freely, so good news there!
Just need to check the coolant pump, the belt-shifting-lever-thing, and the auto-feed mechanisms before I'm sure it's in entirely working order. I'm curious about the belt shifting lever, because pushing the lever guides the belt off of an idle pulley onto a run pulley, but there's a really good spring on the lever, and if I let go it goes back into idle... gotta see if there's a latch on it somewhere, or if it simply won't let it engage unless the saw is on, perhaps a safety mechanism to keep you from powering on the saw with it in gear unexpectedly...
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on e-bay, there is a 10 inch Peerless Shaping saw. model "Universal" s/n 456 estimated as 1934
item # 360694717110
tested & runs
does your pan slant down in one corner ?? if it does, that is where I would look for the drain hole.
if you scrape the pan, you may want to keep a shop vac going as you scrape to keep slag/crum from going into the tank.
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On my Keller there are 2 slots under the vise in the catch tray, oh do they love to clog up! especially the saw blade side. I keep a old broken saw blade (found in the reservoir ) to keep the slots clean. I use wd 40 sometime drill and it evaporates quickly cause of the heat.
Try a couple of each blades, that 6 tooth is not going to like tubing!
Two things to look out for in your reservoir 1 there is a divider in mine (I guess to try to keep swarf from getting to the pump) 2 the outlet of the reservoir and inlet to the pump, crap gets in there and clogs that pipe! I ended up replacing a couple of the 1/4 or 3/8 iron pipe fittings, easier than cleaning them.
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on e-bay, there is a 10 inch Peerless Shaping saw. model "Universal" s/n 456 estimated as 1934
item # 360694717110
tested & runs
does your pan slant down in one corner ?? if it does, that is where I would look for the drain hole.
if you scrape the pan, you may want to keep a shop vac going as you scrape to keep slag/crum from going into the tank.
Boy, that one has been modified quite a bit... I don't believe that 456 is the serial # though... The serial #s are stamped into the frame, not cast into it like he shows... You can see a little plaque on the frame next to the saw part, that's where the SN should be... Mine is #2599
I should find my shop vac...
On my Keller there are 2 slots under the vise in the catch tray, oh do they love to clog up! especially the saw blade side. I keep a old broken saw blade (found in the reservoir ) to keep the slots clean. I use wd 40 sometime drill and it evaporates quickly cause of the heat.
Try a couple of each blades, that 6 tooth is not going to like tubing!
Two things to look out for in your reservoir 1 there is a divider in mine (I guess to try to keep swarf from getting to the pump) 2 the outlet of the reservoir and inlet to the pump, crap gets in there and clogs that pipe! I ended up replacing a couple of the 1/4 or 3/8 iron pipe fittings, easier than cleaning them.
Yeah, I'll pick up a few different TPI blades. A 6, and a 10 or 14...
I figure I'm going to put a little screen around the sump to try and keep particulates at bay, or maybe pick up a fuel tank pickup sock like inside of a car to hook to the pump... But I still haven't thrown time at the coolant system. I expect to be able to blow the lines out with my air compressor. But if not, I can easily replace the parts, just a bunch of 1/4" iron pipe.
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Jackpot.
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170607_111209_zps0eutlqtq.jpg)
My local steel yard has a pile of blades. Apparently they can't get rid of the things, so he sold 'em to me for $3 each. I considered buying all of them... But I only took 9 :P All 4 of the Lennox blades, and 5 of the Starret. 9 blades for the price of one from Amazon or Mcmaster Carr :D
Maybe I SHOULD go back for the rest of the starret... I bet they' d make good damascus/knives...
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That sounds like a plan, are you there yet?
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That sounds like a plan, are you there yet?
lol, I've got my 9 blades... I can afford to wait to go back, the guys there know me. And I have more necessary things to throw money at at the moment.. I won't be too upset if they disappear from under me.
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I cut a bunch of 4140 blanks fro a defunct axle plant(jobs to mexico) here in So.Ill. (2007)I remember that because I had the right knee surgery in the morning and was at the scrap yard that afternoon. Got 600# but should have gotten more! I was weraing blades out lots of 1" to 3" cuts then I took a worn blade and embedded tungsten carbide and put that into see how it worked been cutting with it since! As long as you don't try cutting some harden steel, that happen to me on the lathe hhs does not like hard steel! Now I have a simple test: one of the spring loaded center punches, set it then check the dimple it makes on known hard and soft metal. You have yourself a DIY hardness test kit.
On the cheap too!
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I cut a bunch of 4140 blanks fro a defunct axle plant(jobs to mexico) here in So.Ill. (2007)I remember that because I had the right knee surgery in the morning and was at the scrap yard that afternoon. Got 600# but should have gotten more! I was weraing blades out lots of 1" to 3" cuts then I took a worn blade and embedded tungsten carbide and put that into see how it worked been cutting with it since! As long as you don't try cutting some harden steel, that happen to me on the lathe hhs does not like hard steel! Now I have a simple test: one of the spring loaded center punches, set it then check the dimple it makes on known hard and soft metal. You have yourself a DIY hardness test kit.
On the cheap too!
I'm a blacksmith, I've got pretty good ideas what's hard and what's not, and I can take the hardness out of anything I can fit in my forge, or reasonably take a cutting torch to... But, you're definitely right, I should go pick up those blades... And I'll do so as soon as I've got a little more money to play with. Fixing the saw at all right now is an ill-advised expenditure, but I can't help it XD
The other easy way for checking hardness is to take a file to the mystery metal. If it bites in, it's probably fine. If it slides over the surface like glass, it's too hard, and will need to be annealed.
I am curious how you impregnated your blade with Tungsten Carbide though o.o
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http://rocklinmanufacturingco.com/rocklinizer/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym1dHLr7jG8&ytbChannel=Rocklin%20Manufacturing%20Co.
I have old 600 & 314, 314 is to run a tap zapper
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http://rocklinmanufacturingco.com/rocklinizer/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym1dHLr7jG8&ytbChannel=Rocklin%20Manufacturing%20Co.
I have old 600 & 314, 314 is to run a tap zapper
What the hell? What sort of wizardry is this?!? O_O That's incredible! Never have I heard of, nor seen such a thing... Wow!
Well, I putzed with my saw s'more today... I scraped off as much paint as I easily could, and then cleaned out the coolant sumps... which were exactly as horrifying as I expected.... gelatanous globs of iron shavings... I also found the drain for the top tray, it was on the opposite side of the saw, where I was not looking. I also replaced all the penetrating oil with the gear oil I plan to actually use the machine with, and the whole thing turns beautifully. <3
My flat belt comes tomorrow, after I slip that on, I should pretty much be in business as far as mechanical operation goes! I still need to figure out coolant, and I still need to move some crap out of where my saw is going to live, but I think I've already pretty much got a working saw! Huzzah! :D
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170607_190353_zpsutz2nhxo.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170607_190419_zps8pbwfkto.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/Tool%20Pron/IMG_20170607_194112_zpsljxgkh52.jpg)
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works for snips and hole punches! I have this set of tin snips that cut like crap, only used them one rusty cutouts. So I was playing with the rocklinizer and put a layer on them. Didn't tell my son about just had him cutout some rust on a project. He had it cut out in a few seconds and came to the other end of the shop to ask what the hell I did to those snips because they never cut like that before. I just smiled and said grab ol'sloppy and try it. Ol' sloppy is a Whitney-Jensen small hole punch with 1/8" punch set, well worn out till I put .003 layer of TC on each cutting edge. I paid 3$ for the punch figured some day I would get a set of dies. I have another complete set, plus the bigger set. I did them too but just put .001 layer. It's that accurate.
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Alrighty! Here we go... Err... Hang on...
https://youtu.be/8dS9xgyzr6s
Sorry about the screeching noise...
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GREAT ! I don't know who was smiling the most, you or me.
was glad to see it running, I know that you were also glad. job well done. now you can get back to your other projects.
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Round 7? It took me a little time to get the vise aligned and tight, on the Keller it's not it's best idea, but it can cut straight!
Is that a Johnson gas 122 or 133 forge in the background?
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Twilight must have read the teachers manual from the early 1840's
"Tis a lesson you should heed, try, try again, if at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
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Haha, I alternated between smiles and bewildered scowls in the course of those videos. But I was more astonished awe when it actually started chewing into that rail... I didn't cut any deeper after the vid, not having coolant going through it, but I bet I can cut that rail in 10 minutes with this saw. My bandsaw took hours, and it couldn't cut all the way through it...
The vise is weird... It has a series of furrows in the base that a piece on the moveable jaw sets into, then there's a handle that turns a sprocket like nut... There's an L shaped pin that holds the piece that engages the furrows, and when I turned the pin it lifted and lowered the pice a little, so I thought that was how it went from one furrow to another... Not the case, the pin was just bent. Have to pull out the pin, lift the adjuster, set it in the trough you want, put the pin back in, and crank the little nut back on... It holds it nice and tight, once you figure out how the heck it works...
I picked up 2 Johnson forges from the place I got the press, and hacksaw, $40 each :D I'm not sure of the models, they're low on my priority list. One is much older than the other, made of much heavier steel with fewer bells and whistles than the other. Will fish out a picture in a minute here...
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Here we go... The green one in front seems to be much older than the other...
The Edwards #10 shear is gonna be my next project in a couple weeks :3
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170603_200445_zpsowt0fcfl.jpg)
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I have the 133l, but the orfice is nat gas and I have lp, if it wasn't burried in the middle of the machine it would be soldered and redrilled, johnson wanted a 100+ bucks for lp orfice. I've made new upper brick https://www.facebook.com/pg/Sluggo-Son-Slow-Shoppe-187845251266156/photos/?tab=album&album_id=797177246999617
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I have the 133l, but the orfice is nat gas and I have lp, if it wasn't burried in the middle of the machine it would be soldered and redrilled, johnson wanted a 100+ bucks for lp orfice. I've made new upper brick https://www.facebook.com/pg/Sluggo-Son-Slow-Shoppe-187845251266156/photos/?tab=album&album_id=797177246999617
I assume mine are set up for NG as well, but I haven't looked yet :P The guy said $40 and I said Yessir! lol They're gonna need some love to get back into service, they were sitting outside under tarps for ??? years, but everything seems to operate on them alright. Judging by the press, and the saw which were also outside, the guy knew how to store things well, and I expect to find these more or less workable.
Nice job making the bricks :D
What is that machine right in the front in your profile picture thing? Looks like an old C-frame bandsaw with an electric motor stuck onto the opening.... A planishing hammer?
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You are probably looking at the T3 Pullmax nibbler it's for working metal, shrinking, stretching, beading, joggling, it can louver with the right dies. Pretty rare machines, many more P-series machines, next to the T3 is a P13. They are fixed link machines meaning they don't throw the die it is attached to a scotch link. Mine are for sheet metal max gauge is probably around 12 gauge steel. Pullmaxs are made in Sweden, some were made under contract in Brazil Franho is what they are named. If I sound like a barrel of useless info on them I might resemble that. I got my 1st in 1995 and have been helping spread the word since.
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It's ALIVE!
Nicely done. I'm going to have to get out those blades (if i can reach them). The ones in that picture look a lot like them. :smiley:
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You are probably looking at the T3 Pullmax nibbler it's for working metal, shrinking, stretching, beading, joggling, it can louver with the right dies. Pretty rare machines, many more P-series machines, next to the T3 is a P13. They are fixed link machines meaning they don't throw the die it is attached to a scotch link. Mine are for sheet metal max gauge is probably around 12 gauge steel. Pullmaxs are made in Sweden, some were made under contract in Brazil Franho is what they are named. If I sound like a barrel of useless info on them I might resemble that. I got my 1st in 1995 and have been helping spread the word since.
lol, does sound a bit like a barrel, but I asked, so thanks :3
Sounds good P_toad. If you find 'em and wanna part with 'em, I'm certainly interested. :3
I found the badge on my Johnson forge, and it says it's an 1174, which I can't seem to find anything about that particular one o.o I also can't find the badge that should be on it that specifies if it's NG or LPG...
The second forge, which I thought was an older Johnson forge, I'm starting to wonder if it's a home made forge someone made trying to copy the Johnson... Either that, or it is one of the very earliest Johnson forges ever made. It's very primitive, and the steel on it is ridiculous compared to the largely sheet metal construction of the confirmed Johnson.
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one on the right looks like the models they make now (and for many years) I got mine at the local hs. I knew the shop teacher / maintenance man. He went psst and whispered this hasn't been bid on, this only has a 5$ bid. We got a tractor to help you load. I did end up spending 400$ but got so moch stuff! The tractor threw a rod loading the horizontal mill that had never run. so he call a friend of his to borrow a tractor and he was my neighbor. so instead of me making 5-10 trips with my car hauler, I made 2 and my neighbor made 1 with the big trailer he brought the tractor.
Here is a link to Johnson's forge page, they have manuals in pdf for free. The long time salesman and service tech Beryl Brown retired a couple of years ago. He was a wealth of knowledge and very helpful. I've relined a few of the soldering iron furnaces.
http://www.johnsongas.com/industrial/frn-forge.asp
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Score! This just took a climb up my priorities list :P
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170611_130715_zps6mwpwlbh.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170611_130723_zpsvj8ff8pn.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226/Midnight_Fenrir/IMG_20170611_133108_zpszavmsgcj.jpg)
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Cool! the bricks can be cast from most castable refractory, the higher the temp rating the better it will hold up to the flame. As you may have noticed I use some 26 gauge steel to make the forms, coat it with wax. Not the fast way but make one a day in a week you have seven.
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Well, my coolant came today, and the saw zipped through the rail in about 5 minutes, very happy :D
There is, however, a leak in my coolant line... The little flexible metal hose that lets me point the stream has a gap near its base, and it's spraying out erratically...
Any suggestions as to how I might repair or replace it?
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a quick try would be to clean the area good and put JB Weld on it.
I have done this as a temp patch on a copper drain line, two years and not leaking
it should hold, then you can use it until you decide to change it..
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The "oldgoaly" quick fix that lasts for years and years!
I had a rotted cast iron sewer line running over a beer cooler condensing unit in the basement of a tavern. To keep the crap from shorting out the electrical controls I had to come up with a quick fix from stuff they had. Bread bags/wrappers and electrical tape. That fix lasted more than 10 years till they gutted the place and moved the bathrooms. no duct tape!
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Haha, I don't like either of them those ideas in this instance... It'd be very difficult to get either to work where the break is...
An idea came to me while falling asleep... I'm gonna replace it with some 1/4" OD soft copper tubing. It may not hold up indefinitely to flexing, but it should serve me well enough for quite some time I think...
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I was thinking that you wanted a quick fix for now.
yes, the smart move would be like you are doing, take out the bad !
back in my working days, we had a saying that we would throw at the foreman, who would sometimes want a temporary fix
on a job, we would say;
"why is it we never find time to do a job right the first time, but we always find time to correct it the second time."
yes Twilight, do it right the 1st time, you will not regret it.
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Antifreeze information:
The RV antifreeze is usually propylene glycol, factory mixed with water and a dye. We used to be able to put propylene glycol into fire sprinkler systems, except we didn't use the RV stuff. For some reason it is real cheap and has a dye in it. We used food grade or pharmaceutical grade. Propylene glycol is potable and is non-toxic. It is used in a lot of processed food. It has a lower freeze point when combined with a certain percentage of water. It is the stuff used in building coolant systems, that type usually has a corrosion inhibitor added,
My guess is that the nay-sayers who mention toxicity are talking about ethelyne glycol, or regular vehicle antifreeze. Thats the stuff we all know about, generally.
And because it is mixed with water, the cooling properties are great. Used with a rust inhibitor it won't cause corrosion issues.
You dont need to necessarilly protect down to -40, just because it gets that cold. Time is needed to bring the coolant down to the ambient temperature. Big difference between gelling and freezing.
Other thoughts:
Would an automatic pond heater keep your coolant warm enough? Remember you need to protect the coolant line, not just the reservoir.
I've kept a product called "Texaco Sultex D" in my power machines for as long as I can remember.
I think it is some kind of mineral oil that I use in my 14" slab saw for cutting rocks. Never had any issues in over a decade. You get 20ยบ colder up there than we do in balmy Denver.
Just some thoughts.
Nice machinery, by the way. In many situations I prefer a power hacksaw to a bandsaw. Just set it and forget it. Slide up the stock to the next cut when you hesr the metal thunk after awhile.
Chilly
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I was thinking that you wanted a quick fix for now.
yes, the smart move would be like you are doing, take out the bad !
back in my working days, we had a saying that we would throw at the foreman, who would sometimes want a temporary fix
on a job, we would say;
"why is it we never find time to do a job right the first time, but we always find time to correct it the second time."
yes Twilight, do it right the 1st time, you will not regret it.
That IS the quick fix, lol. $5 later, and the copper tube is in, and appears to work fine for now. I'd still like to find a flexible like it had, as the copper won't hold up indefinitely to being adjusted, but it will get me by, and I have 2' of it, so I've got enough extra to redo it twice.
Newly discovered catastrophe, when the pump is running, it's squirting coolant out around its drive shaft. I haven't gotten to look at it closely yet, lost my flashlight, but my hoping that it was like an old plumbing valve with packing under a nut that just needs tightening didn't pan out... The nut just kept spinning. I'll have to find my flashlight and take a closer look to figure out what's going on...
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In the USA McMaster Carr carries flexible coolant hoses.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#stay-put-flexible-coolant-hose/=182eiwa
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If they have too much packing or it's not pushed in the threads may not even be engaged on the top of that valve. I've got a selection of split leather packing and some graphite rope. Let me know if you need some or both and size...
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In the USA McMaster Carr carries flexible coolant hoses.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#stay-put-flexible-coolant-hose/=182eiwa
Good grief, how did I ever survive without McMaster Carr before? XD Those are freaking exactly what I was looking for... I kept only turning up plastic ones... The MMC ones are nice and affordable, too. Thanks!
If they have too much packing or it's not pushed in the threads may not even be engaged on the top of that valve. I've got a selection of split leather packing and some graphite rope. Let me know if you need some or both and size...
I've got teflon and graphite rope at work for valve packing if I need it, but thanks :3
Once I got the flashlight back there, it quickly became apparent that the nut is counter-threaded... So it just kept spinning because I was loosening it, lol. I turned it the other way and it snugged up nice. I don't know if it's sealed yet, I lost too much coolant for the pump to operate, but I'm confident in what I'm doing with it again, so I'll fix it at my leisure. For now, I need to start prepping for my demonstration next weekend...
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McMaster Carr has just about everything, most times they aren't very cheap but if you need it quick they will ship overnight from any of their warehouses. I work on the road across the USA and I can't even remember how many times I needed something overnight and they came through for me. If I can't get it from our office McMaster is my next place to go other then Home Depot or Lowes.