Tool Talk
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: keykeeper on January 14, 2015, 12:13:40 PM
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How does everyone clean up sockets that are plated? I have probably 60 or so odds and ends sockets in various states of grunge.
Has anyone tried a tumbler or vibratory tumbler like those used for shell casings when reloading ammo?
I really don't have much time to clean each one by hand, and input on alternative methods of cleaning a large number of them would be helpful.
Thanks.
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Aaron, I've never cleaned more than a few at a time. Steel wool or a soft wire wheel outside. Valve guide brushes for small sockets and one of those plumbing round wire brushes they use to brush copper fittings before welding. I cut the handle part off and stick in a drill motor.
Al
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I have chucked a socket onto an extension then turn it into a soft wire brush, also spun it against a 3-M pad.
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When i was still working, i had the use of a glass bead blaster and used it to do the insides of sockets. The outside i did with a cut off socket extension chucked in a drill press and a green scratchy pad used to wash frying pans. I also had the use of a Storm Vulcan parts washer for engine parts. I would string the sockets together with wire and wash the grease and dirt off of them before derusting / polishing.
EvilDr235
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Some great ideas, fellas!
I have a bunch of plated sockets, all different drive sizes from 1/4 to 1/2 that I need to get cleaned up.
One bunch in particular is several Snap-On sockets that have some surface rust on them. They look to be nice vintage ones, the sliding T Bar is marked with the Ferret marking.
I know a brass wire wheel works great, but I can't seem to find an actual Brass one. All the ones I see are steel, plated in brass. That leaves me with only brass hand brushes to work with. That gets old real quick, in my opinion.
I think I may get a cheap vibratory tumbler from Haba Flate and give it a try with whatever media I can find to work on plated things. I can always use it for other brass parts from my Coleman lantern addiction.
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Ile do it for you, just send them my way. Just don't expect to receive them back. LOL
It's not fast but the way I do my sockets is just use a bench grinder an some wd40 or evapao rust. I use a real stuff buffing wheel to get the grime off an light rust. To hold it to the wheel I use a cheapo extension with vise grips at one end an socket at other.
I would be interested to hear how your horrible frieght parts tumbler goes. Keep us posted.
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I know what you mean about the phony brass wire wheels. I went and bought a Bosch brand one and it was steel with brass plating. The package even said brass wire wheel. Big time ripoff. I'm calling my lawyer. Class action lawsuit time.
XXXXXX
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I met a guy that used an old wringer/washer with fine playground sand to clean rusty wrenches.
soda grit might work on chrome tools.
check with Eastwoods for diff. kinds of grit.
just a thought.
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keykeeper,
I like your idea of a vibratory tumbler with dry crushed walnut shell or similar for cleaning sockets... it's at least worth a try... and can't hurt anything.
I would suggest degreasing the sockets first with solvent and then drying them out before the tumbler treatment.
Let us know how it works out.
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Go to the Dollar store and get a few of the 3 packs of wire brushes that have a brass, a stainless and a fiber brush.
Find a crock pot, definitely not the one your wife or girlfriend loves, and put the sockets in it with a solution of Simple Green and water. Cook for 24 hours at around 180°. Pull HOT sockets out 1 at a time with pliers and brush crap loose under running water.
Don't want to go that way, soak em in Diesl fuel for a few days.
If they're rusty soak them in molasses for a few weeks, in a warm place. If the chrome is compromised you can brush it till the cows come home, it will still rust.
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Hard to clean areas are in and around lettering followed by inside in the splines.
Using solvent or paint stripper followed by a wash and scrub in a strong hot water detergent gets a new look at them.
The strong detergent seems to put a cheap rust preventor back on them.
Often followed by Evaporust and another wash.
I wouldn't go the tumble or other abrasive methods.
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I have a lot of tumblers. All the way up to a medium floor standing model. Big brass barrel, probably weighs 40 lbs. Most have 1-1/2 to 2 gallon barrels.
Walnut shells often come with rouge. Works well polishing brass, like shell casings. For cleaning I would use plastic pellets with soap. For rust removal I would go for media softer than the sockets, but harder than the rust. Maybe stainless steel media with vinegar.
I use srainless steel media to burnish sterling silver. Shines it right up, and work hardens it too.
Vibratory mass finishers are often more aggressive than barrel types.
Chilly
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I know what you mean about the phony brass wire wheels. I went and bought a Bosch brand one and it was steel with brass plating. The package even said brass wire wheel. Big time ripoff. I'm calling my lawyer. Class action lawsuit time.
XXXXXX
A real brass wire wheel will cost you. I paid almost $50 for mine on Zoro. I would just assume any wheel less than $30 or $40 is not going to have solid brass wires.
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How does everyone clean up sockets that are plated? I have probably 60 or so odds and ends sockets in various states of grunge.
Has anyone tried a tumbler or vibratory tumbler like those used for shell casings when reloading ammo?
I really don't have much time to clean each one by hand, and input on alternative methods of cleaning a large number of them would be helpful.
Thanks.
I clean almost every used tool and storage piece I buy with TSP (the real stuff) and hot water.
I fill up my laundry tub (it's in the basement) with a hot water and TSP solution and use a brush to clean them en masse.
Anything with rust, whether minor or major, goes into a container of diluted vinegar* for one day or more. Except for saw blades as the etchings are vulnerable to the vinegar solution.
*I've been using the same 5 Gal Rubbermaid container half full of vinegar solution for a couple years. I've never changed it completely but amend as needed.
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I've used Evapo-rust from HF on hundreds of tools, that stuff works good. I put them in a plastic container, and let them sit for anywhere from one day all the way up to a week some times. Depending on how much rust is on there. Then get them out get anything that mite still be on them off with a wire brush, you don't have to work to hard on it, it just comes off thanks to the Evapo-rust. Then go wash them in hot water with a degreaser soap, dry them good, then I put a little preserving oil on them, to keep them from rusting again, then wipe them dry and put them back in the box.
I also recently tried CLR it works to, just keep your eye on it, and use a good container for it, don't leave your tools in for more than two hours. Then get them out, and go through the same steps as above to wash them off.
Good luck.
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I am thinking about building a tumbler out of a orange Homer bucket and a Bar-B-Q motor. I will also use it to clean very old Briggs & Stratton engine parts. Old B&S motors are another one of my hobbies.
EvilDr235
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evildr235,
What kind of B&S engines? I have a Sears Economy branded wmb from 1945 that I tinker around with. Purrs like a kitten!!
this is it, a few years ago....
http://youtu.be/WnWCl_MYT1k
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I am thinking about building a tumbler out of a orange Homer bucket and a Bar-B-Q motor. I will also use it to clean very old Briggs & Stratton engine parts. Old B&S motors are another one of my hobbies.
EvilDr235
That would work, I think. Those spits turn at about 4 rpm, correct? If so, make the pulley on the spit big enough to turn the bucket at least as fast as the spit.
I could check the rpms of my bigger tumblers for you, if needed.
Chilly
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KeyKeeper. I also have a WMB Briggs motor. The WMB is the last type of motor Maytag used on their washing machines for rural use where there is no electricity. Mine is complete except for the gas tank. I also have several 5s models, a model 23, a model 6 and a model N. Those are a cast iron block motors and i have about 8 all aluminum motors. My newest was gotten Saturday off of CL. It is hooked to a Winco 1500 watt generator. I also have several Clintons and Tecumsehs. The WMB was a gift from a former coworker who has since gone under. Imagine grandma kick starting the Maytag.
EvilDr235
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evildr235:
I got my WMB from a senior blacksmith in our local organization. His shop is full of tools and what have you! I noticed it laying on a shelf, all dusty and lonesome. I asked about it, and when we looked at it he said "Take it with you, maybe you can get it running!", which is exactly what I did!
I scored a NOS fuel tank WITH the fuel pickup on eBay a couple years ago for less than $40. It is pristine. My next step will be to repaint, re-decal and mount all of it nicely on a skid to take to gatherings as a conversation piece. The Economy was originally red, sold by Sears as a replacement for the Maytag motors, after Maytag quit making engines....at least that is what I have read.
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Chillylulu what of tumblers do you have ? What do you use for media in them ? I was thinking a pea gravel / sand mix. KeyKeeper i really like the cast iron Briggs. They seem to run forever. I am really looking forward to getting my model 23 Briggs running. It is huge.It came off of a lawn tractor. I got it last summer, but have not taken the time to get it running. The cast iron Clintons are my next favorite brand of gas engines.
EvilDr235