Author Topic: Inside a ratchet: How they work  (Read 227129 times)

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Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #105 on: January 21, 2012, 06:17:43 PM »
Haven't had much time to work on the Fleet, but a part of a ball-point spring fits well, and the ratchet works nicely. Now for a real cleaning.
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Offline lauver

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #106 on: January 26, 2012, 10:21:19 AM »
bonneyman,

I have a MasterPro (Stanley) 3/8 ratchet with some issues.  I have removed the core, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled.  The sliding pawl is not fully engaging.  I suspect the heart shaped spring that connects the pawl to the selector disk is bent, kinked, or not properly connected to the pawl.

My questions for you, Mr. Ratchet, is how do you disassemble the core once removed?  How do you remove the selector disk so you can get to the heart shaped spring.  And last, how do you put it back together?

FYI, I can get the selector disk part of the way off by pressing the QR button and pulling up, but something is keeping it from coming all the way out.  Is there a detent ball inside the core that I can't see? Is there some other trick?

Pleazzzzzz!
« Last Edit: January 27, 2012, 12:26:13 PM by lauver »
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Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #107 on: January 29, 2012, 11:09:59 AM »
A vinegar bath followed by a soft brass brush cleaned the Fleet ratchet nicely, but reassembly with a piece of ball-point pen spring was lacking. The selector is hard to move to one side. I found that it would not move the pawl dog all the way to one side. Re-peening sort of helped, but it sticks easily. Moving toward the replacement spring is very hard and the ratchet won't ratchet that direction. Back to the drawing board, I guess.
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Offline lauver

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #108 on: January 29, 2012, 10:02:26 PM »
Papaw,

Sorry to hear your Fleet is not working out the way you wanted.  If memory serves, the original springs were cone shaped.  Tool Pants did a similar spring replacement and his worked out nicely.  You might pm him and ask him what kind of spring he used.  You know Tool Pants, he's probably got all kinds of photos of his spring experiment which might be helpful to you.

It sounds to me like you might have two problems with your fleet; 1) the replacement spring might be too stiff, and 2) something could be wrong with the cam/selector that pushes the pawl out of engagement.  I remember on my fleet ratchet the selector lever/cam assembly was real sloppy.  I had to drive the selector further down on the pin and restake the selector pin to take this play out of the assembly.  Then everything clicked into place. It not only works good, but it works great... like a Swiss watch.  Just some ideas...

Keep me posted on your progress.
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Offline bonneyman

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #109 on: February 04, 2012, 03:45:42 PM »
Sorry I can't be of any help on that Master Pro, lauver. I only got it apart to the core assembly, and a long ATF/acetone soak got it working. My spring wasn't damaged. I wasn't able to figure out how to get it apart, and at that point it worked, so I didn't want to risk breaking it to get it apart further.
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Offline bonneyman

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A old Crafstman baby rattle ratchet
« Reply #110 on: February 10, 2012, 12:36:03 PM »
Had an OLD Craftsman 1/2" ratchet come across my desk, and I thought it was a Batman type of pawl. To my surprise, the pawl was completely circular, with two rounded grooves machined in it to give the pivot point it needed to skip. Guess the original "D" post pawls were made this way until the Batman pawl I'm more used to replaced it.
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Offline bonneyman

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #111 on: April 20, 2012, 09:32:13 PM »
Some EASCO round-heads. Known as the "paintbrush style" (or "spoon handle") because of the gently curved handle. Single see-saw pawls and coiled flat spring retainer (like the old Thorsen round-heads). Very slim head, comfy handle, fits my hand well.
42 teeth on the 3/8", 36 teeth on the 1/4". Both gear heads have one hole drilled into the side that goes all the way to the center hole. Don't know what purpose it serves.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 11:38:00 AM by bonneyman »
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Offline Papaw

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #112 on: June 14, 2012, 03:34:55 PM »
A vinegar bath followed by a soft brass brush cleaned the Fleet ratchet nicely, but reassembly with a piece of ball-point pen spring was lacking. The selector is hard to move to one side. I found that it would not move the pawl dog all the way to one side. Re-peening sort of helped, but it sticks easily. Moving toward the replacement spring is very hard and the ratchet won't ratchet that direction. Back to the drawing board, I guess.
This ratchet needs a new home with someone who wants to rebuild it. It is in the Buy, Sell Forum.SOLD!
« Last Edit: July 08, 2012, 03:22:58 PM by Papaw »
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Offline kxxr

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #113 on: July 08, 2012, 02:18:24 PM »
NAPA NB43 rebuild:
Here is the repair kit for the NAPA NB43. One end of the spring has a loop, which you can see, and the other end is bent at 90 degrees, which is tough to see in my picture. I got the body for free and the kit was $10.69 at NAPA.

The instructions say to assemble things as you see here (NAPA side up), and then you are to align the little post on the selector cover so that once it is in place and you turn it to the left, it engages the spring. At that point, you insert the center screw most of the way, turn the selector to the right and tighten the screw (T-15), and you're done. The problem is that it is a blind procedure once you get the cover near the target.

I made several attempts at that method without success. Then I took the spring out of the ratchet head, placed it in the correct position on the cover plate and, as I peeked through the center hole, I lined the 90 degree end into the pawl hole, then turned the plate to the left as the instructions say, then to the right and then tightened the screw. I got it all done on the first try by this method.
The instructions also say to carry out the assembly with the logo side up; and that would be the "NAPA" logo, not the "NB43" stamp. They are serious about this. Of course my first mistake was to try it upside down. Everything seemed to go together ok, but when you tighten the center screw, the selector won't turn. Assemble "NAPA" side up, no such problem.
The instructions also seem to be very serious about lubrication, it says, "Ratchet mechanisms should be cleaned and lubricated with SAE 30 oil. Never use a heavy weight grease."
Here's the finished product.


Offline mrchuck

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #114 on: July 09, 2012, 09:19:40 AM »
That exact ratchet is on the end of my 26" long K-D 1/2 inch drive torque wrench.
Made in the USA.
I took the ratchet head apart to lube it with "Super Lube".
I figured it out after several attempts at re-assembly.

Here is what bothers me:
This small ratchet head is on a 280# rated torque wrench.
It is the 'clicker" type, and you also feel it also thru the handle.
 It is also very,very accurate.


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Offline mytoolsupplies

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #115 on: September 03, 2012, 08:06:37 AM »
Intersting subject also very enlightening, Have you investigated the torque amplifierer for ratchets and sockets?
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Offline rusty

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #116 on: September 07, 2012, 05:01:31 PM »
>This small ratchet head is on a 280# rated torque wrench.

It is a torque limiting ratchet, at 281 foot pounds the ratchet head explodes....
Just a weathered light rust/WD40 mix patina.

Offline bonneyman

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #117 on: September 29, 2012, 04:25:04 PM »
NAPA NB43 rebuild:
Here is the repair kit for the NAPA NB43. One end of the spring has a loop, which you can see, and the other end is bent at 90 degrees, which is tough to see in my picture. I got the body for free and the kit was $10.69 at NAPA.

The instructions say to assemble things as you see here (NAPA side up), and then you are to align the little post on the selector cover so that once it is in place and you turn it to the left, it engages the spring. At that point, you insert the center screw most of the way, turn the selector to the right and tighten the screw (T-15), and you're done. The problem is that it is a blind procedure once you get the cover near the target.

I made several attempts at that method without success. Then I took the spring out of the ratchet head, placed it in the correct position on the cover plate and, as I peeked through the center hole, I lined the 90 degree end into the pawl hole, then turned the plate to the left as the instructions say, then to the right and then tightened the screw. I got it all done on the first try by this method.
The instructions also say to carry out the assembly with the logo side up; and that would be the "NAPA" logo, not the "NB43" stamp. They are serious about this. Of course my first mistake was to try it upside down. Everything seemed to go together ok, but when you tighten the center screw, the selector won't turn. Assemble "NAPA" side up, no such problem.
The instructions also seem to be very serious about lubrication, it says, "Ratchet mechanisms should be cleaned and lubricated with SAE 30 oil. Never use a heavy weight grease."
Here's the finished product.


Dang if this rat parts don't look exactly like the latest Craftsman fine tooth guts. Wonder if the parts kit will interchange?
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Offline mrchuck

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #118 on: September 30, 2012, 09:54:45 AM »
I have this NAPA ratchet too, and keep it with the Craftsman's that look exactly like it.
Bet the mfr is the same!
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Offline kxxr

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Re: Inside a ratchet: How they work
« Reply #119 on: September 30, 2012, 10:56:56 AM »
Bonneyman, those innards do look identical and I would be surprised if they did not interchange. I have a Craftsman like yours but yours looks to be a polished finish, mine has more of a brushed or satin finish. I have had it for quite a while and I think it came with a small set. How old are you thinking yours is?